See if this helps
did this last weekend. I have an 88 J-Spec Sylvia K. I am an American in Japan. So some of the info I have is Japan specific
Parts:
Transmission
Flywheel
*new* Throw out bearing
*new* pilot bushing
5spd Drive shaft
Pressure plate
clutch plate $200.- I got a deal it is usually 3 to 4 bills.
Clutch Master cylinder
Slave cylinder - all piping between the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder $100 - I got ripped off.
The first set of part is the actual transmission The second set of parts is the hydraulic system that allows the operator (you) to actuate the clutch.
I had a full garage and I had help from a guy who has done this several times. So I can't be very helpful there.
-Electrical
The Automatic transmission has a separate computer from the Engine mgmt computer. Don't bother looking for it. It still has a use once fully converted.
In the Engine bay right behind the fuses box are several wire connectors.
1) of then tells the car when your car is in a drive gear (so you can't start the vehicle. In my car the connector was TAN. I can't say for Aussie-spec. Once you find the connector disconnect the end that goes down to the Auto. Take that end clip. You don't need it. Take the two wires and soder them together creating a loop. Re- connect the TAN connector. BEWARE this will now allow you car to start in any gear.
2) Next your will see a set of three connectors (2 grey, 1 red <- Jspec is my only reference). The middle connector is what pass the info to the Auto Computer that the car is in reverse. In fact only the Green and black/gray wires matter. The remainder of the connectors are all for the Auto. Once you put the 5 spd in you can toss the remainder
-Mechanical
1) (4bolts) Start with disconnecting the drive shaft from differential.
***Do not dis connect the driveshaft from the Tranny. If you did you might end up with an ATF bath.
Continued.........
-Mechanical
2) Punch a hole in the ATF resevoir. Then drain out ATF.
3) Remove driveshaft
4) Disconnect downpipe (This gives you room to work)
This is also an outstanding opportunity to punch the CAT. But I suspect that is not legal 5) (6 bolts?)Remove all the bolts on the bottom of the Tranny
6) Disconnect all wires connected to tranny
7) Disconnect Auto selector
8) Remove rear transmission crossbar support. It must be replaced with its manual equivalent
9) once you remove the support the only thing holding the tranny to the car will be the bolts that connect the tranny to the engine. IOW the tranny will be supported by the engine mounts. Don't worry nothing will happen. The Auto will swing down slightly. This will enable you remove the remaing 4-6 bolts on the top of the Tranny.
10) Now one would think the tranny will come off ---WRONG!
11) On the bottom between the tranny and the engine is a metal dust cover. Pull it out. You should see the Torque converter. There are 3 bolts that connect the converter to the engine. To remove all 3 bolts you will have to manually rotate the engine (not hard).
12) Get a 27mm socket and a rachet. Go to the front of the engine (near the fan) put the rachet to work.
13) Remove the three bolts and the transmission should come off. *****BEWARE the AUTO tranny is heavier than the manual*****
14) When removing it use a tranny lift
15) Once the tranny is removed remove the Auto Fly wheel - Its connected to the engine
16) Remove the Auto pilot bushing. It requires a special tool. And the tool will destroy the auto pilot bushing. But that is not a big deal considering the pilot bushing cost $2.- and NISSAN.
17) Remove the stick from the Manual transmission. It is held in place by a C-clip
18) Tap the Manual Pilot bushing in where the Auto pilot bushing was until it is flush.
19) Mount the Manual Flywheel 20) Mount clutch and pressure plate
21) Use clutch alignment tool to ensure clutch is mounted properly.
INTERNAL
1) Inside the car you will need to replace your brake pedal with a 5spd brake pedal. That part is self explanatory. Pull 1 out and put the other in.
2) Next to the brake pedal you will see a template for the Manual clutch mount.
3) DO NOT remove the metal collars. Drill out the 2 holes which represent where the clutch mount bolts go through.
4) Drill out the big template/hole. It is where the clutch master cylinder will enter the car. The whole process should take you less than an hour.
5) The mounting bolt for the clutch pedal housing should be in the car already.
6) the clutch housing has two bolts on it that will go through the firewall. On the other side there housing is retained by to washers.
7) When installing the clutch pedal housing install the master cylinder at the same time. The cylinder is easier to mount if you disconnect the line that runs from it to the slave cylinder. *It makes sense once you start*
8) To remove the AT selector. remove the interior trim above it.
9) There are 2 sets of 4 bolts on the selector. Choose the outboard onces. These bolts connect the selector to the car. Once the Tranny is out and the selector is out you should see the floor from within the car.
...continued Back to the tranny install....
By now you should have the following done:
- Auto tranny removed
- Flywheel, clutch and Pressure plate installed
- Clutch pedal and housing installed
- Clutch master cylinder installed
- 5spd brake pedal installed
- Auto selector removed
Installation
1) You are going to need to replace 2 bolts. 2 bolts off of the Autotranny. (Upper drivers side - Japanese drive on the left of the road) These 2 bolts are supports for the starter. The housing on the manual is bigger here. So before you mount the maunal tranny find bolts that can fit throught the tranny all the way to the starter.
2) Inside the 5spd tranny install the new Throw out bearing and the fork.
3) Remove the clutch alignment tool.
4) To mount the 5spd tranny has to be initially installed sideways. It won't fit any other way! Once the drive shaft enters the pilot bushing rotate the tranny into the proper position.
5) Bolt the tranny to the engine. DON'T forget to reinstall the metal dust cover.
6) Install the 5spd rear mount.
7) Remove the exhaust mount off of the Auto rear mount and put it on the Manual mount.
8) Install the 5spd drive shaft
9) Re-install the downpipe
10) Remove the 5 spd drain plug. It should be toward the front is is a square bolt
11) Go inside the car. Add ***"GEAR OIL"*** through the hole where the stick is supposed to reside. Add oil until it starts to exit the tranny through the drian plug.
12) Install the stick and the rubber boot that goes over it.
13) Re-install the interior Trim
13) Re-install the drain plug
14) Install the piping from the Master cylinder to the slave
cylinder. 15) Mount the slave cylinder to the transmission
16) The slave cylinder is what actuates the fork which actuates the throw-out bearing - moving the clutch in and out.
17) Add BRAKE FLUID to the maaster cylinder system. you have to bleed it (Just like brakes) in 3 spots.
REVERSE Lights
1) There are 3 connectors on the Manual tranny. The rear most one is for the speedometer. The next rear most one is the one the has the reverse lights. Connect these wires to the wires I mentioned in my 1st post. You can splice them or you can retain the orginal wiring harness and splic it into the Auto Tranny wires.
TEST IT OUT
1) Make sure the reverse lights work
2) Make sure the car still starts
3) Make sure clutch pedal actuates the throw-out bearing
4) TEST DRIVE!!!!
IMPRESSION: It is like night and day. I feel as though I have set my car free. I used to have that cold start stumbling problem. ALL GONE! The car is faster and more responsive. I love it! The money for the tranny bought me fun and education. I want to put the Supra 6spd in the ARISTO (GS300) now.
"Good Luck, JIM!"
THAT IS ALL I CAN REMEMBER. HOPE THIS HELPS. iT TOOK ME FOREVER BECAUSE THIS WAS MY 1ST TIME. THE GUY I WAS WITHSAID HE COULD DO IT IN 5 HOURS. IT TOOK ME 14HOURS - I AM SLOW!!!
****DISCLAIMER: Do this at your own risk!*******
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