L-plates:)
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Hi Guys
Know this has been written up before, but I got stuck finding info on a few bits so thought I would write all my experiences here to help anyone else going into converting the JZZ30 to take the R154. I can't take credit for all this info, it was gained from many sources and people
Thanks to all
Bits you need before you start:
Clutch washers, bearings etc:
Process (this is taken from sorer central and modded abit )
1. Take off battery negative
2. Remove Auto dipstick
3. Remove exhaust
4. Remove drive shaft
5. Remove torque converter bolts
6. Remove starter motor bolts
7. Unplug electrical loom
8. Undo cooling lines from gearbox and radiator (spill tray)
9. Remove gear selector mechanism.
10. Remove lower bellhousing bolts
11. Place transmission jack under auto box
12. Remove crossmember
13. Allow gearbox to sag a bit
14. Using a long extension bit remove the top bellhousing bolts
15. Pull gearbox WITH torque converter out otherwise you will spill a lot of fluid.
16. Lower and remove the gearbox.
17. Remove the centre console (three screws under the arm rest/centre console glove compartment box, and two at the front of the fibreglass tunnel (one to the left of the drivers pedals and forward a bit, and other in similar position on the passenger side, need to remove the trim under the glove box to get at it really) and cut the hole for the R154 shifter
18. Remove all the bits for the auto on the crank (spacer etc).
19. Install flywheel (74-nm torque on bolts)
20. Install pilot bearing
21. Remove Auto Brake pedal and chop down to size (or fit genuine soarer manual brake pedal). Then refit
22. Install master cylinder\clutch pedal box
23. Connect clutch line and clip up (under brake lines).
24. Get the R154 ready (ensure shifter bushing is installed, grease up the flat non splined areas of the input shaft, Install the hub carrier and throwout bearing on the pressure plate, put the pressure plate on the input shaft and install the clutch fork, plate clutch disk on input shaft)
25. Install gearbox and do up bellhousing bolts and starter motor. Now would also be a good time to fill with gearbox oil (redline shockproof lightweight blue)
26. Align pressure plate to dowels on flywheel and tighten up SLOWLY (all bolts until head touches surface, then nip them up around until its flat, then torque to 30nm in diagonals).
27. Connect clutch slave to hydraulic line
28. Install clutch slave
29. Fill with brake fluid and bleed
30. If you care about cruise, connect the neutral start switch (two big female spade connectors on main auto loom Black/Black+white) to the clutch pedal switch. If you don't care, just bridge them to start the car.
31. Reverse lights... on mine there wasn't a "reverse light loom" as stated elsewhere. The reverse lights were on the main auto loom. After the two big connectors there are 7 other connectors. One is 12v+ the others are for P,R,N,D,2,L. You need to connect the reverse light switch on the R154 to 12v+ and R (put car in on position and bridge until reverse lights come on, note down colours and cut/solder).
32. If your not lucky enough to get a electronic speedo sensor, use a marlin crawler VSS (from driftmotion).
33.If your ABS sensor on the R154 has RED,BLACK, PINK wires like mine, connect the pink wire to the pink wire on the loom, connect the Black to the same Yellow as used for +12v for the reverse switch, and connect the Black to the Purple wire from the loom (Pink and purple where the two wires going to speed sensor number 2 on my auto box, I have heard people have different coloured wires on their speed sensor2, so check before you wire it up)
34. After this is done tidy everything up, bolt up crossmember, bolt up drive shaft, bolt up exhaust, give her an oil change and drive away!!
Like I said, not all my work, but thought I would try get all the bits I used in one place to help others.
Any questions please ask, I have a complete list of part numbers for the Toyota clutch pedal assembly if needed
Know this has been written up before, but I got stuck finding info on a few bits so thought I would write all my experiences here to help anyone else going into converting the JZZ30 to take the R154. I can't take credit for all this info, it was gained from many sources and people
Thanks to allBits you need before you start:
- 1-R154 Gearbox (Check it is fully working before trying to put it in!!!! saves doing the job twice like I had to!)
- 2-R154 to 1JZ bell housing
- 3-Make sure you get an R154 with the mechanical speedo drive in one side (if you can get a digital one then bonus!) and an ABS sensor/ magnetic speed sensor on the other side (passenger side)
- 4-Front part of the prop that connects to the output shaft of the gearbox. Auto one is too short, either get a Mk3 supra one or get your auto one lengthened and balanced
- 5-Gearbox mount - auto one is too far forward, if you get one with the box from a mk3 supra, you can weld two plates on either side that will give you enough length to bolt it up to the holes in the chasis from the auto mount
- 6-Clutch pedal - best off getting the one from the JZZ30 manual, available from Toyota for around £180 for all the pedal bits. An IS200 one can be made to fit, but its more effort than its worth
- 7-Clutch master cylinder - either a genuine Soarer manual one or an IS200 one, only difference is the IS200 one has the pipe input on the other side of the cylinder
- 8-Clutch line, either get a copper one made up, or even easier get a braided line
- 9-Clutch slave cylinder - best off buying a new one for the mk3 supra (with the R154 box)
- 10-1JZ flywheel
- 11-Clutch and pressure plate + friction plate + all washers!! + bearings +fork (see image below) I went for the washers from Toyota and a paddle clutch from F1 in the USA . You can find them on Ebay
- 12-gear lever - this needs to be cut and extended 2" back so it sits in the middle of the gater. Cut it at the swan neck part and extend back two inches with a slight gradient up if possible, otherwise it may catch the tunnel in second and 4th.
- 13-Genuine gear gator from Toyota 58805-24030 (or make your own if you fancy)
- 14-Worth getting "the green bush" that sits at the bottom of the gear lever in the top of the box as it wares. Part number 33505-35020
- 15-If you have an R154 with mechanical speedo drive, you need the Merlin Crawler VSS from driftmotion.com about $51 and they are quick to deliver, mine took 3 days from the US! Digi speedo drive from Toyota is over £200! so this way makes sense
- 16-Clutch switch that mounts into the clutch pedal assembly if you want to keep cruise control. Genuine one costs a lot, I found a second hand brake switch from a mk3 supra and used that
Clutch washers, bearings etc:
Process (this is taken from sorer central and modded abit
)1. Take off battery negative
2. Remove Auto dipstick
3. Remove exhaust
4. Remove drive shaft
5. Remove torque converter bolts
6. Remove starter motor bolts
7. Unplug electrical loom
8. Undo cooling lines from gearbox and radiator (spill tray)
9. Remove gear selector mechanism.
10. Remove lower bellhousing bolts
11. Place transmission jack under auto box
12. Remove crossmember
13. Allow gearbox to sag a bit
14. Using a long extension bit remove the top bellhousing bolts
15. Pull gearbox WITH torque converter out otherwise you will spill a lot of fluid.
16. Lower and remove the gearbox.
17. Remove the centre console (three screws under the arm rest/centre console glove compartment box, and two at the front of the fibreglass tunnel (one to the left of the drivers pedals and forward a bit, and other in similar position on the passenger side, need to remove the trim under the glove box to get at it really) and cut the hole for the R154 shifter
18. Remove all the bits for the auto on the crank (spacer etc).
19. Install flywheel (74-nm torque on bolts)
20. Install pilot bearing
21. Remove Auto Brake pedal and chop down to size (or fit genuine soarer manual brake pedal). Then refit
22. Install master cylinder\clutch pedal box
23. Connect clutch line and clip up (under brake lines).
24. Get the R154 ready (ensure shifter bushing is installed, grease up the flat non splined areas of the input shaft, Install the hub carrier and throwout bearing on the pressure plate, put the pressure plate on the input shaft and install the clutch fork, plate clutch disk on input shaft)
25. Install gearbox and do up bellhousing bolts and starter motor. Now would also be a good time to fill with gearbox oil (redline shockproof lightweight blue)
26. Align pressure plate to dowels on flywheel and tighten up SLOWLY (all bolts until head touches surface, then nip them up around until its flat, then torque to 30nm in diagonals).
27. Connect clutch slave to hydraulic line
28. Install clutch slave
29. Fill with brake fluid and bleed
30. If you care about cruise, connect the neutral start switch (two big female spade connectors on main auto loom Black/Black+white) to the clutch pedal switch. If you don't care, just bridge them to start the car.
31. Reverse lights... on mine there wasn't a "reverse light loom" as stated elsewhere. The reverse lights were on the main auto loom. After the two big connectors there are 7 other connectors. One is 12v+ the others are for P,R,N,D,2,L. You need to connect the reverse light switch on the R154 to 12v+ and R (put car in on position and bridge until reverse lights come on, note down colours and cut/solder).
32. If your not lucky enough to get a electronic speedo sensor, use a marlin crawler VSS (from driftmotion).
33.If your ABS sensor on the R154 has RED,BLACK, PINK wires like mine, connect the pink wire to the pink wire on the loom, connect the Black to the same Yellow as used for +12v for the reverse switch, and connect the Black to the Purple wire from the loom (Pink and purple where the two wires going to speed sensor number 2 on my auto box, I have heard people have different coloured wires on their speed sensor2, so check before you wire it up)
34. After this is done tidy everything up, bolt up crossmember, bolt up drive shaft, bolt up exhaust, give her an oil change and drive away!!
Like I said, not all my work, but thought I would try get all the bits I used in one place to help others.
Any questions please ask, I have a complete list of part numbers for the Toyota clutch pedal assembly if needed
