1UZ E36 IDC Pro2 budget build

JasonUZ36

New Member
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Always loved reading through forums on here of other people’s builds and wanted to have a go at one to remember these last 3 months of putting the car together. I had plans to start the thread once I began building the car & gradually update it as I went along but time was not on my side & would’ve been far too much.


Bit of a short backstory on my drifting to date. Went to my first Irish Drift Championship event with my Dad & brother in 2018 at a very wet Punchestown which left me absolutely amazed and instantly fell in love with the sport. Roll on February 2019, on my 21st birthday weekend my brother and I double drove our e36 we bought together at the Drift games Bash in Mondello Park for our first outing. Both of us were left hooked instantly which led to many drift days over the last few years and I branched off to get my own car, a grey 328 e36 so we could tandem together as this always was the goal.
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After the December 2022 Drift games bash I was on the fence of wether to compete this year or not but wasn’t 100% decided. But a great friend of mine by the name of Rory Raza Malone really hyped me up and gave me the push I needed to really commit.

So first step was to find a clean shell as my previous e36 was quite rusty and not worth pushing on with.


I picked up a rolling shell that I knew was sitting at a shed not far from where I live for many years and would be a perfect base to build upon. (Funnily enough I had actually tried to buy the same car two years previous before I had bought my grey car, but I’m hindsight glad I hadn’t as at the time, it would’ve been way too big of an undertaken)

It’s a really clean rolling shell that was very stripped with no loom, pedals, brakes, glass etc but already had a solid cage.

My plans before going down and collecting the car were to swap my 328 running gear into it and run that for the season.

However once I came down to collect the car I had found out the owner also had a non-vvti 1uz lying about that was originally supposed to go into the car. Once I had mentally committed to competing it kept crossing my mind that with a little bit more power it would make the car some what competitive especially since it’s gunna cost so much karting the car around the country,might aswell give myself some shot. However, I knew I hadn’t all the time in the world as my first test day was 3 months away and it was going to be a very big commitment while also having to travel up to Dublin to work in office 3 days a week for my first job out of college during this time.


Anyways, once I heard he still had the engine, for me in my head it was perfect and an no brainer, I was gunna make it work.
Car came rolling with alot of the body panels / glass as well as an IRP v1 lock kit, a nice fuel cell, Bosch 040 external pump, is200 box and some other little bits and was decently priced in my eyes at €4000 all in.

So this was the starting point.

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Okay so first thing I done was started ordering parts. I’m ditching the is200 box and reusing my zf box off the 328, so went for a PMC adapter plate to mate it to the engine. With a custom PMC flywheel clutch combo rated for 850nm of torque.

Also ordered a full gasket kit aswell as regular refresh bits of rock auto during this time.


First thing I was eager to do was test fit the engine to see how clearance would be regarding the exhaust manifolds, gearbox & height etc. I just had to give the engine a quick freshen up first to boost morale.
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looked well In there but without manifolds on, it already looked horribly close to the steering shaft and body but this was to be expected.

Anyways, while waiting for the adapter plate + refresh kit to arrive I cracked on with what I could do which included pulling the rear subframe off my 328 old car as it was already polybushed, saving me abit of quid and more importantly time.
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Next was to pull the scabby subframe from the new car and begin reinforcing the mounting points before I could throw the other one in.

I also cut the rear arches for extra clearance during this time as I’d be going over fenders all round to fit larger tyres, followed by welding / sealing it all up. I also took advantage of the space during this time to run the brake lines.

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Slapped it all back up and that was the rear nicely tidied up. Having gained some good momentum and it was now time for the more challenging bits.

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I’m running the standard 1uz ECU and at first stripping all the automatic bits out of the loom was fairly daunting but once I got some solid wiring diagrams that lined up well with what I had I was able to crack on with confidence. Still traced every wire and logged in on an Excel spreadsheet to track any future potential issue. Very easy engine to wire hadn’t really messed with wiring before this . I followed a pdf that must people who have messed with Uz’s will be familiar with “how to wire a 1uz” by Nigel wade which provided all information needed. Im also creating my own body harness that will be powered off an arc model 8000 fuse box switch panel. This kit includes 8 relays / fuses that will power the whole car which really simplifies things a lot, a great piece of kit. Poor pictures of this stage but below is some of the auto loom stripped.
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Parts came in off rock auto so was time to refresh the engine. Aim is to only do this once so I changed everything within reason to hopefully have the engine super reliable. So it was fully stripped with rotating assembly left in and the following done.

- all new gaskets ( Victor reinz )
- new timing belt bearings tensioners water pump
- new oil pump
- New thermostat + spark plugs
- New head gaskets + head bolts

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Back together and ready to crack on with putting stuff on for the final time.

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It was time to bolt up the adapter plate and gearbox for a test fit.
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After massaging the tunnel it fits. Although, the tunnel really needs to be widened as it would be impossible to remove the gearbox without pulling the engine.
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Tried to get the engine/box as level as possible in line with the rear differential and made up some gearbox mounts which still incorporate the original mounts & points. I’ve now upgraded these for Strongflex poly mounts as these are quite soft for the job.
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Next up was the dreaded manifolds.
First off, I cut back the rearest runners on both sides as much as possible and welded on some short runner 90s so they could atleast fit & sized up what other pipes would be needed to finish both downpipes.
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Another runner hit the steering shaft so it had to be cut back with a bend welded in to curl around it.
The below steering shaft is 12mm for context, working around the standard bmw shaft would’ve been impossible.
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While waiting on parts, I ended up fitting the front IRP lock kit, a vast improvement compared to e46 arms with cut knuckles which I used run previously.
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Pulled the gearbox back off to install the flywheel & clutch.
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With the gearbox back on for the final time I started to dress the engine and chuck it in for its first start. After a few cranks with no success there was no fuel pressure but after flipping the fuel pump around it fired right up, sounding great. It only ran for 4 seconds and would then cut out which at the time I put down to a vacuum leak of some sorts. Not being very bothered by this i pulled it back out to attack the manifolds / down pipes. In hindsight this was an immobiliser on the ECU and certainly stirred things up later on.
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Once the piping for the Downpipes arrived, I tack welded the 2-1 Y pipe while the engine was in the car on each side to get them where I’d like em and also to test If they would clear everything whilst pulling/mounting the engine.
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It’s tight as fuck with the shaft on removal but clears none the less thank god. Then it was just a matter of cutting bits and bobs to make the bends needed to connect everything up.
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And for the final time straight back in with the engine to get the down pipes connected into a 2-1 to mate up with the exhaust.
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