Been drifting my 350z for a few years with poweredbymax steering angle kit. Running the rear sway bar loose. Front sway bar in the middle setting. 0 rear camber close to 0 toe some toe in the rear. 9degrees caster in the front and -3.8 camber in front and small toe out in front. Initiating high speed drifts the car will undeersteer hard and won't turn into the drift at random times and seems to be getting worse. Tires are 265 35 18 achilles atr sport 2s. And Bc Coilovers
350z under steer issues. Any advice thanks
- Thread starter Zach711f
- Start date
Jites
Active Member
sounds like the car is setup for grip at the rear. Id try running 215-225 rear tyres, put the rear anti roll bar to full stiff or increase the stiffness of the rear damping and maybe reduce the front a tad.
Pressure in the tyres makes the world of difference, I run about 45 psi on 215's and 60psi on wide tyres like 235's. If I don't my car will grip too much mid drift on high speed corners but before dropping tyre size play with the free stuff like pressures, damper and sway bar settings. have a play with them, if your still getting understeer then maybe look at drifting on narrower tyres or tweeking the alignment on the rear to reduce the contact patch by increasing camber
Pressure in the tyres makes the world of difference, I run about 45 psi on 215's and 60psi on wide tyres like 235's. If I don't my car will grip too much mid drift on high speed corners but before dropping tyre size play with the free stuff like pressures, damper and sway bar settings. have a play with them, if your still getting understeer then maybe look at drifting on narrower tyres or tweeking the alignment on the rear to reduce the contact patch by increasing camber
Jites
Active Member
aaahhhhhhh..... I was thinking that I should of asked specs with those tyre sizes.
If it were me I'd just have a play with the pressure and damping settings as they are free until it was gripping at the front but I swapped tyres to some track spec ones, huge difference over the road tyres I used before. that's another option I guess?
If it were me I'd just have a play with the pressure and damping settings as they are free until it was gripping at the front but I swapped tyres to some track spec ones, huge difference over the road tyres I used before. that's another option I guess?
DtheBUK
Active Member
Some general things to consider.
By running lots of camber upfront you're making the most use out of one wheel on turn in so generally want to aid lateral weight transfer. You can do this by increasing the track, softening the front ARB and speccing your springs/damping based on castor/camber.
At the rear you're generally looking to reduce lateral weight transfer so you can make use of both rear tyres for driving you forwards. With this in mind it's worth running a stiff rear ARB and adjusting your springs/dampers accordingly to how much you want the car to squat
9 degrees of castor sounds like a shit tonne, it could possibly be reducing your camber too much on turn in. - This comment is just speculation though.
Toe out upfront increases turn in but can affect higher speed drifting. If your steering kit reduces Ackerman toe out up front might be good for you.
Obviously tyre pressure/size also make a big difference
By running lots of camber upfront you're making the most use out of one wheel on turn in so generally want to aid lateral weight transfer. You can do this by increasing the track, softening the front ARB and speccing your springs/damping based on castor/camber.
At the rear you're generally looking to reduce lateral weight transfer so you can make use of both rear tyres for driving you forwards. With this in mind it's worth running a stiff rear ARB and adjusting your springs/dampers accordingly to how much you want the car to squat
9 degrees of castor sounds like a shit tonne, it could possibly be reducing your camber too much on turn in. - This comment is just speculation though.
Toe out upfront increases turn in but can affect higher speed drifting. If your steering kit reduces Ackerman toe out up front might be good for you.
Obviously tyre pressure/size also make a big difference
kam
I've touched Chris Parry
Drifting doesn't work like that, the rear "floats", instead of leaning and loading like "grip". ARB wise you want the rear soft to maximise traction.
put the rear rollbar back on you have a non linear roll stiffness on front and a linear rear roll stiffness. The faster you enter the more the rear will roll compared to front. Therefore rear takes front further than i wants to go as they are connected therefore it pushes.
put rollbar back on and play with stiffness and set correct rollcentre height to adjust "float" and changed springs, damping and squat, camber and tyre pressure to get the required drive/wheel speed on rear.
9 degrees castor also seems to much and gives a big jacking effect loading rear end grip as well as you add lock. Depends on a number of other factors - kingpin angle and scrub.
i would try less castor - so less jacking effect and more static camber so a better contact patch on lock.
9 degrees castor alot and 3.8 camber not very much.
hope this helps
Also with 9 degrees of castor i would guess
put rollbar back on and play with stiffness and set correct rollcentre height to adjust "float" and changed springs, damping and squat, camber and tyre pressure to get the required drive/wheel speed on rear.
9 degrees castor also seems to much and gives a big jacking effect loading rear end grip as well as you add lock. Depends on a number of other factors - kingpin angle and scrub.
i would try less castor - so less jacking effect and more static camber so a better contact patch on lock.
9 degrees castor alot and 3.8 camber not very much.
hope this helps
Also with 9 degrees of castor i would guess