Balling on a budget jag

woods1

woods1

Active Member
So, I love drifting and comp spec cars, but they cost loads of dosh.

If you can't afford to crash it you can't afford to drift it.

I also hate generic boring drift cars, and alwasy want to do something bit different. I had a volvo 940 before this and loved it, but sadly blew it up

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This was the epic launch control system that eventually melted a piston, but was worth the few days it lasted haha



So with that, here she is-

£200 pounds, FSH, 3.0 v6, 240bhp, bmw 5 speed manual gearbox, and the most disgusting interior I've ever seen.

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So I went about doing the usual mods, stripped it backbox delete, smaller battery etc and was shocked at came in on the scales at 1420kg, very similar to a bmw.

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Just cut the Coils, hydro, added some old school "intra" 17s I had, and boom, I think a cool different skidder. Couldn't believe how much it pops and bangs with just the backbox delete, and the weight and size if them definitely helped flow.

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Total spend so far is around 300 quid as I had to buy few bits and some coilpacks for the damn thing, costing me a bloody fortune.

First drift day at Oulton Park on the 7th of April so can't wait to get out and see how it goes.
 
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Love it! Much better than the other Jag some kid posted a while ago

Have you just welded the rear diff or does this run a factory LSD? Factory handbrake locking up ok? What's the factory lock like and what's the steering setup look like?
 
BenRice said:
Love it! Much better than the other Jag some kid posted a while ago

Have you just welded the rear diff or does this run a factory LSD? Factory handbrake locking up ok? What's the factory lock like and what's the steering setup look like?
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All the rear end and diff it out at the moment ready for a automatic diff to be welded and go in its place. Manual ratio is a 3.07, auto is 3.31 so it should be a nice bump up.

Hydro is plumbed in and steering lock feels good, will probably add some rack spacers at some point soon and have the front end aligned, be okay for now.

Yea ive seen that thread, no idea why he ruined that s type with rattle can paint, strange exhausts and stickers haha
 
Love this. Im currently doing exactly the same to my stype. Ill uppload some pics later but same libes really, cut springs, stripped out, 2 recaro buckets, deep dish wheel and 2 freeflow silencers which sound epic.
 
supraman said:
Love this. Im currently doing exactly the same to my stype. Ill uppload some pics later but same libes really, cut springs, stripped out, 2 recaro buckets, deep dish wheel and 2 freeflow silencers which sound epic.
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You got the 3 litre? I just welded in a straight pipe and it sounds so good.

How have you fitted an aftermarket steering wheel as I cannot find anywhere that sells a steering boss for a s type.

Il warn you now with the diff, im having a nighmare, because the shafts are "push in", if you get any spatter at all on the splines they wont go back in. Also the heat seems to effect the shape of the spider gear housing, so as a result the shaft is hard to get back in. I had to hit mine with a drive to get them back out. If I ever need to change the shaft its guna be a massive job.
 
Yeah its a 2001 3 litre. I havent fitted my wheel yet as it only came this afternoon. Id imagine being ford parts that most aftermarket ford ones fit. Im more than likely gona use the rally style weld on quick release type thaats currently on my camaro. Im just not sure about mot if i permanently remove the airbag wheel. Will it pass?
 
supraman said:
Im just not sure about mot if i permanently remove the airbag wheel. Will it pass?
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It will pass so long as the airbag light isn't on... Best way of doing that is to install a resistor equal to that of the airbag in place of the airbag.

Note that finding out the resistance of the airbag is not a simple case of measuring the resistance on the airbag as it could set it off! . . Airbags usually between 2 and 5ohm (0.5w) though (or they are in VAG world anyway).

I'm not sure how sensitive these systems are to change/fluctuation in resistance. Just by a bag of resistors from maplins (they're peanuts!) and have play about until you manage to trick the system! . . May need some means of clearing airbag code each time you try another also.
 
Thats fine ive got a jaguar code reader so thats not a problem. Thanks ill give that try before i go too far with the wheel.
 
No idea what you guys are on about with resistors haha, just take the bulb out the back of the gauge cluster. Done it loads.

Usually held on with a few screws, pull it out with cables still attached, and just take the little 501 bulb out. Simple
 
Good luck mate. I almost went down the Jag route but didn't have the balls to take on the challenge.
 
woods1 said:
No idea what you guys are on about with resistors haha, just take the bulb out the back of the gauge cluster. Done it loads.

Usually held on with a few screws, pull it out with cables still attached, and just take the little 501 bulb out. Simple
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If the MOT tester is worth their weight, they'll check the light actually comes on with ignition as it should...

Of course we all know a friendly MOT tester or two though ;)
 
VAG-Slag said:
If the MOT tester is worth their weight, they'll check the light actually comes on with ignition as it should...

Of course we all know a friendly MOT tester or two though ;)
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Completely disagree. Tester tests what is there. Can't test something that isn't coming up. Can you imagine failing an mot because the guy says "yea mate there should be a little light that comes on the dash, but you don't have any warning lights on so I'm guna fail it" lol.

On a side note 3.31 diff is welded and going back in this weekend :)
 
Ok, I've just had a quick search through the VOSA MOT inspection manual (yes I am rather bored at work)... Admittedly it does state that "A Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) malfunction indicator lamp indicating a system malfunction" would be a failure. Which suggests you need a lamp in the first place to indicate a malfunction. . . Whether a lamp not being present where it should be indicates a malfunction (even if only in the lamp!), is to an extent open to interpretation.

In the same section it also states another reason for failure would be, "an air bag obviously missing or defective", which doesn't bode well in this case. . . . .

However, in a separate section regarding modified cars is does also say:
"Where a vehicle has been extensively modified or converted, certain Reasons for Rejection, such as for components ‘missing where fitted as standard’ should not be applied, for example: a car converted for rally use (i.e. rear seats removed and fitted with a roll cage and full harness seat belts etc.) may have been converted so as not to require a brake servo, power steering or airbags"

So if your car is proper "because racecar", and you've taken the SRS bulb out - You should be OK unless the tester is being very picky... Which isn't unheard of!
 
That above bit does make sense as rally cars dont have any airbags whatsoever despite coming factory with them and theyre all road legal arent they.
 
Regarding the rally cars it all has to be in date FIA approved stuff. Very few tester will ever come across this.
It's only there to provide legal way for rally cars to drive between stages. Also lot of rally cars came out as a shell sold bare to rally teams so it did not come out from factory with airbag unlike your car.
 
I know thats the case for pro teams etc but a lot of lower budget stuff starts as a road car and gets stripped and converted. RE the steering wheel i can always save the original to bang on for mots but my concern was the seats as they also have built in bags and are huge and heavy. Ive nowhere to store these. Would the resistor trick work for those and still pass if the original wheel was back on.
I just need to keep the car road legal to drive to and from tracks(As long as it survives) as i dont have a tow car or trailer. Thats why im also keeping abs and traction control stuff working. Ill judt disable as and when i need to.
 
Im just starting drifting so im not going overboard on big mods or anything too expensive as its just a bit of fun for now. Ill see how things develop over time. Its also gona be used on normal trackdays too so i cant go all out drift spec or itd be a bit crap on road and track.
 
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