Basic Service & Maintenance R33 GTST

R33 GTST Kay

R33 GTST Kay

New Member
Hi guys,

First time ever owning a Japanese import let alone it being a Skyline aswell. I am not much of a wrench go-er by trade as I’ve mainly driven company cars that I don’t care about . However I am dead set on learning as I go along and chucking myself into the ever complicated world of the RB25.

I know there are a lot of experienced guys and girls on here but just for a beginner in this scene what are the main points of interest when it comes to servicing the car? For example how do I carry certain jobs out?

Anything to look out for? (Other than Rust)

Any help is appreciated guys but I’m thoroughly looking forward to collecting the car!
 
Hey dude, you're in for some fun!

First port of call: find a service manual PDF. If you want, message me and I'll fire one through. Pouring over one of these is a great first step.

I'm guessing from your post that you're importing the car? Do you have a spec list already?

As for basic tools, a metric ratcheting spanner set, a 3/8" and 1/2" socket set, generic short and long Phillips and flathead screwdrivers and varying sizes of pliers & adjustable wrenches are the things I've used the most. The thing that's saving me the most lately is actually an electric screwdriver lol

First step will be the engine oil & filter. Drop a bottle of engine flush into it before draining, let it idle for 15min and then drain. Worth doing on the first change. Go for a 15W40 fully synthetic oil

You'll need a good drain pan, get one of these types, they are worth it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FloTool-...h=item2c9bebe150:g:L5kAAOSwBahVcCuV:rk:7:pf:0

Next, gearbox oil. This stuff stinks! Hence why having a good drain pan is ideal. Make sure the fill bung can be removed first, then drain it. Go for the cheapest fully synthetic if the budget allows, otherwise a middle of the range semi synthetic and change it every year / 5000 miles.

Fuel filter will be next, then spark plugs (gapped to 0.8mm). While doing the spark plugs it will be worthwhile compression testing the engine to see what you've got. Anything above 120psi is good. If you find anything between 90-120psi cold then you've probably got a cracked ring. Anything between 40 and 90 is a cracked ring land and anything less than 40 is a bin job sadly.

If after all that the car doesn't idle great or has a miss throughout the rev range expect to throw a set of new coilpacks at it. People rave about Splitfire but I've had luck with my cheap pink ones.

Watch out for the ECU, as they tend to throw fail-safes up if the AFM maxes out, which can be happen with just a front mount intercooler, bigger exhaust and pod filter.

I could rattle on for hours but that'll sort you initially
 
BenRice said:
Hey dude, you're in for some fun!

First port of call: find a service manual PDF. If you want, message me and I'll fire one through. Pouring over one of these is a great first step.

I'm guessing from your post that you're importing the car? Do you have a spec list already?

As for basic tools, a metric ratcheting spanner set, a 3/8" and 1/2" socket set, generic short and long Phillips and flathead screwdrivers and varying sizes of pliers & adjustable wrenches are the things I've used the most. The thing that's saving me the most lately is actually an electric screwdriver lol

First step will be the engine oil & filter. Drop a bottle of engine flush into it before draining, let it idle for 15min and then drain. Worth doing on the first change. Go for a 15W40 fully synthetic oil

You'll need a good drain pan, get one of these types, they are worth it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FloTool-...h=item2c9bebe150:g:L5kAAOSwBahVcCuV:rk:7:pf:0

Next, gearbox oil. This stuff stinks! Hence why having a good drain pan is ideal. Make sure the fill bung can be removed first, then drain it. Go for the cheapest fully synthetic if the budget allows, otherwise a middle of the range semi synthetic and change it every year / 5000 miles.

Fuel filter will be next, then spark plugs (gapped to 0.8mm). While doing the spark plugs it will be worthwhile compression testing the engine to see what you've got. Anything above 120psi is good. If you find anything between 90-120psi cold then you've probably got a cracked ring. Anything between 40 and 90 is a cracked ring land and anything less than 40 is a bin job sadly.

If after all that the car doesn't idle great or has a miss throughout the rev range expect to throw a set of new coilpacks at it. People rave about Splitfire but I've had luck with my cheap pink ones.

Watch out for the ECU, as they tend to throw fail-safes up if the AFM maxes out, which can be happen with just a front mount intercooler, bigger exhaust and pod filter.

I could rattle on for hours but that'll sort you initially
Click to expand...

Hey Ben,

Thank you so much for the reply man! That is the exact info I need man and I’m sure there is more to learn on top of that too!

I think “fun” is not all I’m in for haha! But it’s part of the experience. I have purchased the car from a dealer and got them to do all of the relevant checks such as Undersealing, Previous/Current Rust, Re-fab work, strut mount condition, pre collection service.

I have also received the spec list which I have attatched.

I think from what you have mentioned my first port of call is a decent toolkit and work from the ground up

Any and all advice is always appreciated and thank you again for replying!

B45A6113-C49F-4B23-A9A8-A71B84E401D8.png
 
Wow, comprehensive!

So a rods & pistons rebuild. Is it running stock turbo & ECU? How about an external oil cooler? What kind of clutch? And stock radiator or alloy jobbie already in there?

If you hunt around the threads searching for RB25 or RB20 you'll find some of the common issues. Once you've covered off the things in my first post I'd recommend sorting the cooling aspects first and foremost.

Alloy radiator with new viscous fan hub, gktech SR20 fan (incl RB adapter) and an external oil cooler w/ sandwich plate. Couple these with some good water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauges (with built-in warning lights) and you'll be able to keep things in check as you turn the wick up.

If it really is stock turbo / stock ECU / stock injectors then the first thing would be a genuine Z32 or R35 AFM and ECU & mapping session. Get the whole shebang running 100% perfect at a safe level so you can push the car hard and learn the chassis without fear of having a lean spot. Then later down the track when you want to push the engine a little harder then it's just a mapping session away from running spot on again.

Nistune are a popular bang for buck option, but see who is local to you and what they prefer to use. Search their name and see what the consensus is with how they operate as some are real cowboys from all accounts. The plug & play aftermarket ECU's are far and above cheaper than the full wire-in's so watchout being upsold on this. Power FC (older tech) and Link (expensive but more options) offer plug & play ECU's as well.
 
BenRice said:
Wow, comprehensive!

So a rods & pistons rebuild. Is it running stock turbo & ECU? How about an external oil cooler? What kind of clutch? And stock radiator or alloy jobbie already in there?

If you hunt around the threads searching for RB25 or RB20 you'll find some of the common issues. Once you've covered off the things in my first post I'd recommend sorting the cooling aspects first and foremost.

Alloy radiator with new viscous fan hub, gktech SR20 fan (incl RB adapter) and an external oil cooler w/ sandwich plate. Couple these with some good water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauges (with built-in warning lights) and you'll be able to keep things in check as you turn the wick up.

If it really is stock turbo / stock ECU / stock injectors then the first thing would be a genuine Z32 or R35 AFM and ECU & mapping session. Get the whole shebang running 100% perfect at a safe level so you can push the car hard and learn the chassis without fear of having a lean spot. Then later down the track when you want to push the engine a little harder then it's just a mapping session away from running spot on again.

Nistune are a popular bang for buck option, but see who is local to you and what they prefer to use. Search their name and see what the consensus is with how they operate as some are real cowboys from all accounts. The plug & play aftermarket ECU's are far and above cheaper than the full wire-in's so watchout being upsold on this. Power FC (older tech) and Link (expensive but more options) offer plug & play ECU's as well.
Click to expand...

Hi Ben,

It’s comprehensive but the dealer seems vague at best if I’m honest. That spec list is all I’ve received and some grainy photos of the car.

I am going to view another R33 GTST in white today which really does seem not only cleaner but a lot more in depth from the get go. The key I find to these cars is to take your time and not rush into anything!

Car I’m viewing is here :- https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/123604265787

Owner is also happy to put the car on a ramp whilst I’m there, start from cold, has all history etc.

The best bit for me is it’s running relatively stock power so I can truly build from the ground up knowing that what I have done is what I’m happy with and trust.

Opinions are massively welcome Ben.
 
I'd say trust your gut instinct. When someone lists a car as having a rebuild then any failures down track can be attributed to an issue with the rebuild (if it was done prior to the dealer), so kind of an easy out for the dealer.

I will proviso that with reputation. If you're buying from a dealer that has a noted good reputation then i would say the lack of info is due to tyre kickers and people wanting to buy single parts off it. Search their name on here and on Facey and see what pops up. If any genuine dodgy scenarios are brought to light then your instincts are bang on. Otherwise consider viewing in person if at all possible as a rods & pistons rebuild isn't cheap, and if it's been done well it's a big advantage going forward. RB25's have known issues with rings, so having fresh ones in there when you start is a huge hurdle overcome.

But if it is indeed a no-go then the white one is shaping up nicely. People having confidence to put a car on a ramp is a big plus and from the ad it looks like a genuine example. It'd be good to find out what kind of clutch was used, but considering it wasn't in the spec list i'd fathom a stock replacement.
 
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