Battery relocation help, what I need ect

ali-d1936

Member
Just looking to relocate my battery to the boot of my s15, have a custom FMIC set up and the battery won't fit,
Besides 12ft of battery cable, a few battery terminals and a battery tray im not too sure what I need, have searched but can't find a decent writeup, it's for a road car so needs to be done to a high standard, I assume a in line fuse wouldn't hurt either.
Even if somone could link me to a good example in a build thread be a great help
 
Immy your guide is great. To help the OP I'll share some thoughts.

Battery to boot conversion is very easy. Here are some ways of going about it.

1. Secure the battery! You don't want a battery moving about in your car. For the very best solution without spending money on 'motorsport tax' I would highly recommend heading to eBay and buying a 'marine battery box'. These are designed for hobby boats (canal to speed boats). Made for batteries and you can find one the right size for your needs. Mount the box to your shell securely. If you can't nut and bolt then consider riv nuts or a thick metal strap of some kind. Use your common sense.

2. ground.

The battery needs a good earth. Clean the metal up. Earth it. Done. However.... Don't forget that on some cars the engine and or the loom will earth through the same place as the original battery does. So keep them earth's or stuff won't work!

3. Get the right gauge wire... This is simple but very important and is often over looked. Your battery kicks out lots of electricitys... If you try and feed the live down a wire that's too thin then you risk over heating the cable and burning it out. The result can be a fire and all kinds of death type situations. So get the right guage!!! your supplier can help with this. (See edit)

4. How to run the cables... Earth.

With your battery in the boot simply earth the - terminal of the battery to a clean earth on the chassis. Again, use an appropriate gauge. Best solution is to use the OEM earth cable (assuming it only earth's the battery and as a result would have no use in the engine bay once the battery has been moved). Secure earth strap with a bolt.

6. How to run cables, live.

The + is the cable mentioned in 3. This needs to run to where the battery + used to go.* Connecting this new cable to the OEM location can be tricky as it's a very very thick wire to solder. Consider a brand new crimped connecter to where the original battery cable went. Your supplier can crimp on a ring terminal for you (because it'll be a thick guage wire it'd be a specialist tool needed to crimp a terminal on you see)...

Make sure you insulate well.

Fuse: I've seen lots of factory cars with batterys in the boot and I've seen lots of high end conversions. I've done lots myself. None have had a fuse. One can't hurt. A fuse is never a bad idea. But I honestly don't see the need as long as your cable is the correct size.

5. Jump start!!!!

This is important to think about. Especially if your boot is opened via a solinoid.... If your battery is flat. How will you jump start. It's worth thinking about.

6... Amps, voltage drop and the right battery.

I don't want to go too deep into this. Mainly because I'm still learning about all this myself. BUT the basics are this... The longer the run of wire from your battery live to your starter motor, the more volts will be lost on the way there. As a result your engine will crank slower...

I'm about to be corrected if I'm wrong and if I am i want to be told I'm wrong BUT as I understand it, a battery with higher amps per hour will push it's voltage more efficiently and stop the voltage drop being so extreme.

In practice I've found that moving my battery to the boot means a slower crank of the engine but it's barely noticeable and has never caused me issues with daily driving.

* On most cars the battery + feeds the OEM power distribution block and main engine bay fuse box. These are usually the same part in the engine bay. The box will often inside large amp fuses and some relays... This is certainly the case on a S13 and 14. On a r33 its a tad different as the main fuses are in the boot with the battery and then the relays are in the engine bay at the end of a battery (in boot) to engine bay wire.... Shows the many different ways it can work! Lol sorry to confuse things if I've waffled too much

I hope that helps.

Long reply as I'm bored and can't sleep lol


Oh edit: supplier. I really recommend vehicle wiring products. Based near Derby in the UK. Very good to deal with and carry everything you need. Their website isn't bad but they do more than just what's on there and they are good to deal with on the phone. Very good company.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info dude very informative
So started chipping away on this today,
Bought a new battery 480Amp battery,
4meters of red 35mm cable
1meter of black 35mm cable
Positive and negative terminals,
Grommets for feeding the cable between the firewall ect,
Heat shrink,
Have a 100amp in line fuse bought
12-24V 100 Amp Manual Reset Vehicle Audio Inline Circuit Breaker Fuse Holder Kit

And looking for a junction box the same as immy has

Isn't 35mm cable 2gague this should be thick enough?
 
I'l quote your post in my thread as that's a ton of great info Adam.

This is the junction box I used:
Battery Cable Junction Box Two Stud

I should have posted a pic in my thread, I fed the power cable through the large existing gromit behind the drivers wheel arch, however I have plenty wheel clearance so maybe not the best idea if you have big wheels and lots of lock.

Google shows 35mm2 is good for 240amps so that should be more than enough. I never once blew a 140amp fuse in my old relocated s14a.
 
Ya I considered running mine out through the loom opening and through the wheel well but decided this was a bit risky if it ever hit the wheel. I drilled a hole through the firewall underneath the break peddle so the cable runs along the chassis leg in the engine bay. used large winged zip ties so I can drill small holes and clip the cable securely in place,

I asked for 4meters of red but wish I got 5 for comfort it's just enough and no more
 
Immy your guide is great. To help the OP I'll share some thoughts.

Battery to boot conversion is very easy. Here are some ways of going about it.

1. Secure the battery! You don't want a battery moving about in your car. For the very best solution without spending money on 'motorsport tax' I would highly recommend heading to eBay and buying a 'marine battery box'. These are designed for hobby boats (canal to speed boats). Made for batteries and you can find one the right size for your needs. Mount the box to your shell securely. If you can't nut and bolt then consider riv nuts or a thick metal strap of some kind. Use your common sense.

2. ground.

The battery needs a good earth. Clean the metal up. Earth it. Done. However.... Don't forget that on some cars the engine and or the loom will earth through the same place as the original battery does. So keep them earth's or stuff won't work!

3. Get the right gauge wire... This is simple but very important and is often over looked. Your battery kicks out lots of electricitys... If you try and feed the live down a wire that's too thin then you risk over heating the cable and burning it out. The result can be a fire and all kinds of death type situations. So get the right guage!!! your supplier can help with this. (See edit)

4. How to run the cables... Earth.

With your battery in the boot simply earth the - terminal of the battery to a clean earth on the chassis. Again, use an appropriate gauge. Best solution is to use the OEM earth cable (assuming it only earth's the battery and as a result would have no use in the engine bay once the battery has been moved). Secure earth strap with a bolt.

6. How to run cables, live.

The + is the cable mentioned in 3. This needs to run to where the battery + used to go.* Connecting this new cable to the OEM location can be tricky as it's a very very thick wire to solder. Consider a brand new crimped connecter to where the original battery cable went. Your supplier can crimp on a ring terminal for you (because it'll be a thick guage wire it'd be a specialist tool needed to crimp a terminal on you see)...

Make sure you insulate well.

Fuse: I've seen lots of factory cars with batterys in the boot and I've seen lots of high end conversions. I've done lots myself. None have had a fuse. One can't hurt. A fuse is never a bad idea. But I honestly don't see the need as long as your cable is the correct size.

5. Jump start!!!!

This is important to think about. Especially if your boot is opened via a solinoid.... If your battery is flat. How will you jump start. It's worth thinking about.

6... Amps, voltage drop and the right battery.

I don't want to go too deep into this. Mainly because I'm still learning about all this myself. BUT the basics are this... The longer the run of wire from your battery live to your starter motor, the more volts will be lost on the way there. As a result your engine will crank slower...

I'm about to be corrected if I'm wrong and if I am i want to be told I'm wrong BUT as I understand it, a battery with higher amps per hour will push it's voltage more efficiently and stop the voltage drop being so extreme.

In practice I've found that moving my battery to the boot means a slower crank of the engine but it's barely noticeable and has never caused me issues with daily driving.

* On most cars the battery + feeds the OEM power distribution block and main engine bay fuse box. These are usually the same part in the engine bay. The box will often inside large amp fuses and some relays... This is certainly the case on a S13 and 14. On a r33 its a tad different as the main fuses are in the boot with the battery and then the relays are in the engine bay at the end of a battery (in boot) to engine bay wire.... Shows the many different ways it can work! Lol sorry to confuse things if I've waffled too much

I hope that helps.

Long reply as I'm bored and can't sleep lol


Oh edit: supplier. I really recommend vehicle wiring products. Based near Derby in the UK. Very good to deal with and carry everything you need. Their website isn't bad but they do more than just what's on there and they are good to deal with on the phone. Very good company.
which is the best make to get & where from, & the Battery code ? 2001 IS200 Thanks ...
 
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