royal
S1- F.T break!
Thought it might be useful to someone if I posted a few pictures. My welded diff killed my passenger side halfshaft and I stuck another one on this afternoon. I remember having to remove a load of arms on the skyline and s13 to get the hub to move enough to remove the halfshaft. Turned out to be loads more straightforward on my BMW e39 535. Pretty sure the other models are very similar?
Broken halfshaft. Car was pulling one way on acceleration and then the other when I took my foot off.
Extra tools you need:
- ET10 torx socket - supplied in the decent halfords pro kits
- You need a big ass socket to get the nut off the end of the half shaft. Halfords only do 6 sided ones in 36mm, these do NOT fit! I got this one off http://www.toolbuddy.co.uk/36mm-12p...ive-hub-nuts-audi-vw-bmw-fiat-ft636-769-p.asp
36mm 12pt DEEP IMPACT SOCKET 1/2" Drive HUB NUTS AUDI VW BMW FIAT FT636
- Some kind big leverage bar such as 4ft scaffold bar. I used my jack handle.
First remove the 36mm nut from the end of the halfshaft whilst the wheels are still on the ground and handbrake is on. Stick some bricks in front of the wheels to stop it rolling. Use a hammer and screw driver to bend back the locking metal that stops the nut turning. Put the scaffold bar over the end of the socket tool to give a load of leverage, probably need 3-4ft minimum to do it without swearing. Once that is off jack up the car and remove the wheel.
You only need to remove the brake caliper, the big long lower arm bolt, and the coilover bottom pickup. The coilover bottom pickup is a bit of a bitch to get socket moving, it might be easier to remove the ARB if your's comes off easy. I just swore a bit and moved the nut 2mm at a time for ages.
Once these are undone use a lump hammer and screwdriver or bit of metal to bang on the end of the halfshaft to knock it back a bit. It is then easy to hinge up the hub a little bit and gradually bang the half shaft out of the back of the hub. (The horizontal bar above the half shaft is the lower arm bolt holder).
The inner part of the halfshaft is attached to the diff with et10 Torx bolts. If you have a welded diff like me, which you probably do if you've broken a halfshaft, then you'll need to lift the other side of the car to spin the wheel so you can get at all the torx bolts.
View from the top
At this point the story stops because it started pouring with rain. I also changed my rear pads whilst I was there. Then it's just a case of throwing it all back together again and enjoying the wonders of a welded diff in the rain. You'll need the big leverage bar to do the nut up tight again.
Broken halfshaft. Car was pulling one way on acceleration and then the other when I took my foot off.
Extra tools you need:
- ET10 torx socket - supplied in the decent halfords pro kits
- You need a big ass socket to get the nut off the end of the half shaft. Halfords only do 6 sided ones in 36mm, these do NOT fit! I got this one off http://www.toolbuddy.co.uk/36mm-12p...ive-hub-nuts-audi-vw-bmw-fiat-ft636-769-p.asp
36mm 12pt DEEP IMPACT SOCKET 1/2" Drive HUB NUTS AUDI VW BMW FIAT FT636
- Some kind big leverage bar such as 4ft scaffold bar. I used my jack handle.
First remove the 36mm nut from the end of the halfshaft whilst the wheels are still on the ground and handbrake is on. Stick some bricks in front of the wheels to stop it rolling. Use a hammer and screw driver to bend back the locking metal that stops the nut turning. Put the scaffold bar over the end of the socket tool to give a load of leverage, probably need 3-4ft minimum to do it without swearing. Once that is off jack up the car and remove the wheel.
You only need to remove the brake caliper, the big long lower arm bolt, and the coilover bottom pickup. The coilover bottom pickup is a bit of a bitch to get socket moving, it might be easier to remove the ARB if your's comes off easy. I just swore a bit and moved the nut 2mm at a time for ages.
Once these are undone use a lump hammer and screwdriver or bit of metal to bang on the end of the halfshaft to knock it back a bit. It is then easy to hinge up the hub a little bit and gradually bang the half shaft out of the back of the hub. (The horizontal bar above the half shaft is the lower arm bolt holder).
The inner part of the halfshaft is attached to the diff with et10 Torx bolts. If you have a welded diff like me, which you probably do if you've broken a halfshaft, then you'll need to lift the other side of the car to spin the wheel so you can get at all the torx bolts.
View from the top
At this point the story stops because it started pouring with rain. I also changed my rear pads whilst I was there. Then it's just a case of throwing it all back together again and enjoying the wonders of a welded diff in the rain. You'll need the big leverage bar to do the nut up tight again.
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