Okay, The terminals labelled as '1' are for the pulldown resistor, -this is going to drain off any residual charge in the car's circuits once you've opened the big MOFO isolator, so you just need to put a link wire in from the secondary side of the big (10mm?) terminals to the little spade terminal on the 2ndry side of number '1' terminals. on the other side link the resistor down to any chassis earthpoint or make one yerself. this stops the alternator diodes from blowing if you shut it off via this switch.
The number '2' terminals open at the same time as you open the big MOFO switch, and open-circuit the LT of the ignition circuit. Either cut into the ignition control wire on the ecu or direct into the ignition wire from the key barrel. this makes sure the engine doesn't 'run-on.'
So, Big cable (+ve) across main nut and bolt terminals.
resistor to ground on one side of '1' terms and cable link from other side to secondary big beefy cable (use any size cable for this, a bit of 2.5 would be the go if you have it) - the linked wire should go on the alternator/starter side and not the battery side.
then just to break into the ignition circuit and connect across terms '2' , just use a bit of cable, 2.5 again if you have it (sorry, i'm not up on wire gauge sizes)
About the only concerns you may have with this installation are devices--radio, clock, thermostat-controlled fans, or alarm--that require a continual power supply. Such garb can be wired directly to the battery through a separate circuit if you so desire.
as for the regs, it doesn't mention it, but I'm sure FIA regs specify this arrangement as a minimum so it all works as it should - it would be a bit of a pisser if the engine set alight cos it run for a moment too long