DW Lower Arm question

L

Lukey13

Active Member
Hi, I recently got a set of DW adjustable front lower arms but the stub axles for the ball joints are too short to do up the castle nuts and get the split pins in..
I know that the other longer length stub axle that they come with fits because I already have those on the rear..
I have a brand new pair of short stub axles in bubble wrap - would it be possible to get these swapped?
Cheers - Luke
 
Hi Luke,

Just to confirm, you're using the pins labelled S13 on an S13 or S14 ones on an S14?? Just want to eliminate the obvious first. :)
 
Ps13 with 5 stud conversion..
I believe it to be S14 knuckles used.

So Im assuming the pins I have that are too short are S13 pins.

Would I be best to give you an exact length of the pins I do have in mm?

Full length including threads: 119mm

Shaft alone without threads: 73mm


Am I right in thinking that the bore size remains the same hence being able to use either of the two sets?

Cheers dude :thumbs:
 
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If its not the fact your using the wrong studs, the second problem that 99% of people do is they don't do the tappered nut up first (top nut) as this needs to be done first and properly tightened because it must seat the tapper perfectly before doing the bottom up, otherwise you will not drive the tapper up into the knuckle.

Then you should have more then enought thread.

Both will kinda offer up, just one fits in the tapper perfectly, if not labeled i normally just tap it up into the knuckle and see if it locates correcly without any side to side play.

Other then that they are very strait forward to fit, do not forget to split pins top and bottom too.

Clarkey.
 
The two types do differ, the taper s13/14 isn't the same.
Check what Clarkey has typed above, it sounds that could be your problem :)
 
superclarkey said:
If its not the fact your using the wrong studs, the second problem that 99% of people do is they don't do the tappered nut up first (top nut) as this needs to be done first and properly tightened because it must seat the tapper perfectly before doing the bottom up, otherwise you will not drive the tapper up into the knuckle.

Then you should have more then enought thread.

Both will kinda offer up, just one fits in the tapper perfectly, if not labeled i normally just tap it up into the knuckle and see if it locates correcly without any side to side play.

Other then that they are very strait forward to fit, do not forget to split pins top and bottom too.

Clarkey.
Click to expand...


Yep when I test fitted the fronts I did indeed do up the top nut first and its clear that the taper is different, hence coming up too short.

I presume the bottom nut is there to lock everything in place and can also be used to extract the top taper instead of bashing the life out of it and ruining the threads :nod:

The pins I have in the rear arms all fitted up perfect just as u describe :thumbs:

Am I right in believing there is just these two types of taper pin for fitting the arms? Hence I have the wrong ones...
 
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Unfortunately no, there are only the two types isnt there?
Can I send the pair that I do have to you guys to get them swapped?
 
Wesslan said:
I also had a prblem with the studs when i mounted the rear lower arm... I did get studs that fitted but they didnt have enough thread so i took leftover studs from when i did the front ones...

Pics:
1. http://jzs13.se/wp-content/IMG_6664.jpg
2. http://jzs13.se/wp-content/IMG_6660.jpg

You can see that the threads are different...

edit: also i mounted it in the correct order like superclarkey describes.
Click to expand...

Thats the nature of the game with custom parts and un-known combinations of hubs/fitments etc.

1 thread can make all the difference, you can either use a washer or send them back and I'll swap them for you :)
 
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