DW manual boost controller......
- Thread starter caged
- Start date
Andy_F
S13+S15=S28?
The DW one uses a small ball bearing with a spring behind it. By adjusting the screw it makes the spring stiffer which adjusts the pressure it takes to move the ball out of the way of the air flow and allow the flow to open the actuator.
A bleed falve uses a screw to adjust the amount of air which flows out of a hole in the side of the controller, which effectively lowers the pressure getting to the actuator, thus keeping it closed for longer.
... I think.
A bleed falve uses a screw to adjust the amount of air which flows out of a hole in the side of the controller, which effectively lowers the pressure getting to the actuator, thus keeping it closed for longer.
... I think.
yeah, Andy's got it 
The boost valve stays shut until there's enough pressure in the inlet to open it and let the pressure get to the actuator. This is adjustable and has the advantage of not opening the wastegate before it gets to the pressure you want.
Without the valve, the wastegate may be fully open at (for example) 7psi, but it may start to creep open at 5 or 6 psi as it reaches the 7psi target. With a boost valve, nothing gets past at all until it gets to the pressure you want, so the wastegate stays shut for longer which = more boost = better power delivery.
A bleed valve leaks pressure off to atmosphere so the actuator sees less pressure than there is and opens later, giving you more boost. Because it's leaking air from the inlet, this has the same effect as having a small boost leak and really isn't ideal. You also still get the actuator creeping open with this setup.
Hope that helps
The boost valve stays shut until there's enough pressure in the inlet to open it and let the pressure get to the actuator. This is adjustable and has the advantage of not opening the wastegate before it gets to the pressure you want.
Without the valve, the wastegate may be fully open at (for example) 7psi, but it may start to creep open at 5 or 6 psi as it reaches the 7psi target. With a boost valve, nothing gets past at all until it gets to the pressure you want, so the wastegate stays shut for longer which = more boost = better power delivery.
A bleed valve leaks pressure off to atmosphere so the actuator sees less pressure than there is and opens later, giving you more boost. Because it's leaking air from the inlet, this has the same effect as having a small boost leak and really isn't ideal. You also still get the actuator creeping open with this setup.
Hope that helps
caged
Drift Gibbon
James said:yeah, Andy's got it
The boost valve stays shut until there's enough pressure in the inlet to open it and let the pressure get to the actuator. This is adjustable and has the advantage of not opening the wastegate before it gets to the pressure you want.
Without the valve, the wastegate may be fully open at (for example) 7psi, but it may start to creep open at 5 or 6 psi as it reaches the 7psi target. With a boost valve, nothing gets past at all until it gets to the pressure you want, so the wastegate stays shut for longer which = more boost = better power delivery.
A bleed valve leaks pressure off to atmosphere so the actuator sees less pressure than there is and opens later, giving you more boost. Because it's leaking air from the inlet, this has the same effect as having a small boost leak and really isn't ideal. You also still get the actuator creeping open with this setup.
Hope that helps
cheers everyone
