e36 hydro not lock8ng wheels up

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k13nay

New Member
Hi everyone new to this drifting thing lol i bought myself a e36 320 to practise in before spending good money on something decent so i have fitted a hydro handbrake but it doesnt seem to lock my back wheels up you can feel it bogging down at the back when u pull on hydro and slowing car down but no mater how hard i pull it doesnt lock up any pointers thanks
 
Tried dipping clutch pulling hydro on and without dipping it it does lock up in the wet but not on dry and yes first mod but now i have some negative camber aswell
 
could it be teh padsd are low as it the requires harder pull on the hydro also if u dont dip teh clutch it wont lock up so dip clutch everytime and pull hydro if thats stilll not locking them try replace the pads and welcome to drifting man
 
Thanks mate al try that pads seamed ok when a checked them as a cleaned everything up at rear made sure everything was moving freely but for the sake of a set a pads al try it one day at driftland and it made me wanna do it lol its fun ;)
 
What size cylinder is it?

The clutch has to be down to lock the rear wheels otherwise it is still receiving drive to pull through the handbrake's efforts to stop the wheels ...
 
Change pads, id imagine they are low, if you do its worth changing them to a pad more suited for sprints/hill climbs, but you can just warm them up a bit by dragging the brake before you start your drift run, it should help with the initial bite
 
Same issue as mine.. In the end TFS Racing re-did the lines so there was 2 rather than 1 splitting into 2. Also a longer handle for more leverage and locks up fine now.
 
100% change the cylinder. Me and a couple of mates bought hyrdos at the same time and they all came with .7 cylinders, none of them locked up very easily.

Changed to a .625 and they were all fine. Buy a Wilwood one, I bought a cheap-o and it lasted a few months, put my Wilwood in 2 and a half years ago and still going strong.
 
k13nay said:
Just contacted a company that does them and they said i would need bigger 7.5 would this be right
Click to expand...

That company clearly doesn't know much.

E36's want a 0.625 cylinder.
Good extension for leverage.
Bleed it to fuck, just keep bleeding it untill you're 100% sure there's no air in there.
 
So defo go for the 0.625 cylinser tgen as a dont mind pahing for it but dont want to waste money if u know where am coming from
 
Mines a .625 on an E36 328, when I initially put it on and bled it up I was very disappointed, would be extremely difficult to lock it up even in the wet, I changed the rear discs and pads (To motorfactor specials, nothing fancy) and it locked up shit hot, i'd say step your cylinder down a size as alot of people seem to have had problems with .7's.

The way I had it explained to me when I was doing research is; imagine you've got a set amount of fluid and you've got to put it through a pipe with a piston acting upon it, you'll have more movement per 'effort' with a smaller diameter pipe than a larger one.

You need to make sure the pulls on the hydro are quick and sharp else you'll just slow the back wheels down.
 
k13nay said:
So defo go for the 0.625 cylinser tgen as a dont mind pahing for it but dont want to waste money if u know where am coming from
Click to expand...

Ye go for a 0.625. Get a half decent one, wilwood, ap racing, something like that.

A lot of people do use the .7 but the majority go for the .625.

It is still worth checking the condition of the rear brakes though, poor condition brakes won't work as well. You may not feel it as much through the brake pedal as the majority of the brake force is to the front.
 
Right a blead it up again and it certainly seems alot better but having to really yank on it to get it too lock up no air in system at all
 
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