E46 HSD DualTech, some questions on install

[Daze]

Hey all. Haven't used the forum in a long time! I have an e46 Touring (2003 M-sport 330d diesel), I've bought HSD DualTech's from the website last week, going to install them next week. Some questions I have

1, I didn't get any instructions in the box, is this normal? If you could forward on anything you have in regard to installation that'd be great.

2,

In what position do I install the rear spring adjuster, top or bottom? My guess is at the bottom as there is a bolt supplied which goes through the adjuster, which I would guess I would tighten from the other side of the wishbone?

3,

A photo taken by me of what I bought. Where do I tighten the front strut down to? Does that smaller diameter lip have anything to do with alignment? Perhaps this will become clear once I begin install

4, Talk to me about rear shock preload. What is the correct method of adjusting rear shocks in general. My guess is; adjust rear ride height using spring adjuster, remove shock bolt, jack-up wishbone to 10mm(?) of preload on spring, adjust shock height to align bolt, bolt up, done?

I'd like to see a reply from a Driftworks staff member if possible, but any help appreciated from anyone!

Also, MERRY CHRISTMAS! Yes... its 6PM on Christmas Eve & here I am talking about coilovers...

Thanks in advance!

 

[Starkey]

Hey Daze, Merry Christmas.

Ill try and answer the questions for you ️

1. Only generic instructions should be included, if none found please email shop@driftworks.com and I will sort you out when we are back in the office

2. The adjuster on the bottom and use the bolt supplied to attach it to the lower arm

3. The front bottom bracket sits inside the hub and the rest of the bracket sits above it

4. You set the rear damper full short, so wind the bottom bracket all the way on. Attach at the turret and then jack the lower arm up and bolt up the bracket. Use the rear spring to adjust the height of the car.

The main problem area you may come across is setting up the front ARB tab, that needs to be properly aligned and all the locking collars locked off (with hammer and a drift) if its wrong them it could work itself loose

Sorry for short replies but drop me a message if you need more help.

Rich

2.


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[Starkey]

Hey Daze, Merry Christmas.

Ill try and answer the questions for you ️

1. Only generic instructions should be included, if none found please email shop@driftworks.com and I will sort you out when we are back in the office

2. The adjuster on the bottom and use the bolt supplied to attach it to the lower arm

3. The front bottom bracket sits inside the hub and the rest of the bracket sits above it

4. You set the rear damper full short, so wind the bottom bracket all the way on. Attach at the turret and then jack the lower arm up and bolt up the bracket. Use the rear spring to adjust the height of the car.

The main problem area you may come across is setting up the front ARB tab, that needs to be properly aligned and all the locking collars locked off (with hammer and a drift) if its wrong them it could work itself loose

Sorry for short replies but drop me a message if you need more help.

Rich



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[Daze]

Hey Rich!

1. Only generic instructions should be included, if none found please email shop@driftworks.com and I will sort you out when we are back in the office

Fair enough. No, couldn't find any at all. I'll fire an email shortly

2. The adjuster on the bottom and use the bolt supplied to attach it to the lower arm

Cool, thought as much, cheers

3. The front bottom bracket sits inside the hub and the rest of the bracket sits above it

Yup, thought this might be the case

4. You set the rear damper full short, so wind the bottom bracket all the way on. Attach at the turret and then jack the lower arm up and bolt up the bracket. Use the rear spring to adjust the height of the car.

So rear damper to full short regardless of rear ride height? Fair enough. May I ask what the point is of having length adjustment on the shock is for then?

The main problem area you may come across is setting up the front ARB tab, that needs to be properly aligned and all the locking collars locked off (with hammer and a drift) if its wrong them it could work itself loose

Yeah, fair enough. I have read a fair bit about using different length front droplinks. I'll come to this when I get round to fitting then measure. I did wonder though; why is there only 1 locking collar supplied to lock the droplink tab off? It would reduce the chances of the tab collar to come loose if there were locking collars top & bottom rather than just bottom, right? Is extra/spare locking collars something that can be bought & supplied by you?

Thanks for the replies & for clearing up some of these questions

 

[Daze]

Another question for ya'll. I've now fitted the coilovers and couldn't be happier, they ride so good and the car has been transformed! Very pleased!

A quick question regarding the front turrets / camber adjustment though. This is how I've fitted the coilovers. I found a couple of other threads online with the same "issue" but nothing completely resolved with it.

Firstly, is this correct?
Secondly, how will my alignment guy make front camber adjustments?

My guess is, remove 3 bolts holding strut in place, remove "out of reach" allen bolts, refit strut, make adjustments, tighten allen bolts which are visible so it doesn't move from adjustment, remove strut, refit & tighten out of reach allen bolts, refit strut. Is that correct? I can't see another way of doing it.

Unless indeed I've fitted the struts incorrectly. Although it drives totally fine? And as I say, I have found other threads while searching saying the same thing & fitted in the same way...

- - - - -

Regarding rear damper height adjustment, there is something odd here;

Firstly, if someone could answer my question above regarding why it needs height adjustment? Just for my own knowledge if nothing else.

But secondly, Rich; you said above to set rear damper height to its minimum length. Ride height adjustment is done via spring, no problem. However, that is not what is says in the instructions that I was emailed... I quote

"The rear of the E36/E46 is slightly more complicated due to the separate spring and shock design, however still very easy to setup. Set the damper to the correct length needed to hold the spring captive when adjusted to ride height. Use a jack to raise the hub into position and attach the damper. Ride height is effected ONLY by the spring adjuster."

I read this as - set ride height via adjusting spring perch. Once happy, car on axle stands, remove damper bottom bolt, jack up hub until spring is captive (not loose), adjust rear damper height to line up bottom bolt. Done

I'm slightly confused with which method to use as I'm being told 2 different things!

Thanks!

 

[PhilMorrison]

Hi Daze,

regarding the camber adjustment, the best thing I found on my M3 was to do the two hidden bolts up to be captive, but not crank on them. Then you can use a rubber hammer to make the fine adjustments and lock it off properly with the two bolts that you can see. Mine never came loose with this method. It's one of the trade offs of having the castor in the correct position which is why it's different from other E46 kits.

Regarding the rear damper length. The instructions need updating slightly as we changed the rear damper design. We recommend anyone like us (people that don't want standard ride height) set it full short to ensure you have full damper stroke. The correct method is to remove the springs, and simulate compression with the wheel fitted, then you can adjust where the bump stop comes in to play at the most extreme compression. but we've found that most people get this really wrong, so full short is the best setting for most people that run lowish to low.

Glad you're enjoying them!

 

[Daze]

Hi Daze,

regarding the camber adjustment, the best thing I found on my M3 was to do the two hidden bolts up to be captive, but not crank on them. Then you can use a rubber hammer to make the fine adjustments and lock it off properly with the two bolts that you can see. Mine never came loose with this method. It's one of the trade offs of having the castor in the correct position which is why it's different from other E46 kits.

Regarding the rear damper length. The instructions need updating slightly as we changed the rear damper design. We recommend anyone like us (people that don't want standard ride height) set it full short to ensure you have full damper stroke. The correct method is to remove the springs, and simulate compression with the wheel fitted, then you can adjust where the bump stop comes in to play at the most extreme compression. but we've found that most people get this really wrong, so full short is the best setting for most people that run lowish to low.

Glad you're enjoying them!

Hey, thanks for the reply!

Alright, that sounds good. Makes sense regarding the front camber setup, cheers.

As for the rear damper height, thanks, that makes a lot more sense now you've said it. I have them set to fully short now as per Rich's instruction, but it did seem odd as with the car on axle stands, with the hub on full droop, the spring is really compressed already. That just didn't seem right to me when I was fitting them, but I guess its fine.

In terms of my rear ride height, I have the spring perch locking collar removed, just running spring perch collar wound all the way down and locked into place. Going by this, I'm guessing having the rear dampers on full short is indeed correct for my ride height?

Thanks again

 

[MrLuke]

Hey, thanks for the reply!

Alright, that sounds good. Makes sense regarding the front camber setup, cheers.

As for the rear damper height, thanks, that makes a lot more sense now you've said it. I have them set to fully short now as per Rich's instruction, but it did seem odd as with the car on axle stands, with the hub on full droop, the spring is really compressed already. That just didn't seem right to me when I was fitting them, but I guess its fine.

I have the same on my 330 E46

When I first fitted the rear dampers they put a lot of preload onto the rear spring and really limited the droop travel which made the test drive pretty unpleasant. Have obviously extended the dampers out now.

I'm not running super low but am using up most of the spring perch.