Flared Arches
- Thread starter paulsmith
- Start date
LittleMark
-NIGHTSPIRIT-
On mk1 golfs, ( i know completely different cars but) people buy the repair pannels that you weld in when the arche has rusted, and layer them on top, it takes time and skill to perfect it because of the shapes? but that might be the way?
Mark
Mark
BanjoMaster
Active Member
Man, R32s rule, especially that one...
I think you can do it very carefully and slowly if you get hold of one of those arch rolling tools. I have a guide to do just that on my home comp by Society Mike, I'll try and get it to you tonight if I remember
Cheers,
Graham
P.S. You NEED wheels like that man
I think you can do it very carefully and slowly if you get hold of one of those arch rolling tools. I have a guide to do just that on my home comp by Society Mike, I'll try and get it to you tonight if I remember
Cheers,
Graham
P.S. You NEED wheels like that man
paulsmith
Team Japspeed
BanjoMaster said:I think you can do it very carefully and slowly if you get hold of one of those arch rolling tools. I have a guide to do just that on my home comp by Society Mike, I'll try and get it to you tonight if I remember
If you could, that would be great.
BanjoMaster said:P.S. You NEED wheels like that man
Hehe, thats the plan!!!
Paz
-NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- UK Drift Since 2001
You can just use a hammer and a metal block to roll the lips, then flare the arch out, then use filler to smooth it over. Both my 86's had flared arches and it gives a good 20mm more clearance... I assume its similar with any metal arches but youve just gotta be confidant, and go at it. Helps if you know how to panel beat, fill and paint, but i didnt know how to before i took a hammer to my arches 
Thats my first 86, the second you can see in the Media section for an idea on how to do it.. I can go into alot more detail if you like? But i wont be held responsible for any of the results! ahha..
Paz
Thats my first 86, the second you can see in the Media section for an idea on how to do it.. I can go into alot more detail if you like? But i wont be held responsible for any of the results! ahha..
Paz
CorollaRWD
-RUTHLESS-
Paz,
What size wheels are they?
Alex
What size wheels are they?
Alex
Paz
-NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- UK Drift Since 2001
Alex, they are 15x8 -14 Offset, w/ 6mm spacer in that pic. That size without the spacer just fits under a stock AE86 arch with -3 degree's of camber. As for the rear, they wont fit. 15x8 0 Offset might? Thats with 195/50/15 tyres.
Right Paul, here is what i did..
First, just roll the lips under. Slowly work your way around tapping/hitting the metal lip up untill its folded up a fair way, be sure to do it gradually to avoid splitting the metal. Then get your metal block (solid, heavy but small is best) and put it on the outside of your arch and then hammer at it, but from the inside of the arch, hitting the lip inwards.. Again, go gradually but you can get the lip up so it touches the actual arch, so its basically vertical. The slower you do it and the less harsh the fold, the less the metal will split, but it does take ages this way but its for the best. Btw, putting the metal block on your paint will scratch the shit out of it, so if you just wanna roll them, put a rag around it.
Then, on the 86 i just started at the front of the arch (on the rear), say about 8 inches up from the outer sill and worked my way across to the rear of the arch, flaring slightly more each time and gradually bringing the flare in as i worked up the arch. Now, on the 86 i used the metal block again on the outside of the arch so you are hitting something solid instead of the arch flapping about as you hammer, i presume you can do the same to acheive your desired flare. Gradually tease the metal out, again the slower you do it, the less splitting there will be, but on the rear the arch will be double skinned and that really makes it hard to be gentle. I found (afterwards) it best to hammer the inner skin inwards before you start flaring, so that it was the same shape as the outer arch basically. I think you'll understand what i mean when you stick your hand under your arch and feel the shape of the inner arch...
Now, this usually gives a smooth, gradual flare (but the metal on the outside will be messy) and not a definitive line like on that R32 above. Now, if youre happy with the smoother look, you just need to use the filler as an ugly bird does with make up, basically just smooth it over all the the mess you just made and sand it down so that your left with a nice smooth finish. I reckon if you use a sanding block and enough filler, or if you work the flare enough, you could actually get a definitive line like on that one above... Worth a try, however they may be welded on and smoothed over. But the important thing to remember with the filler is that you can attempt it again and again untill youre happy with it, keep playing with it. Start with rough as fuck paper to get your basic shape then work your way down to 1500's wet for a final finish. The longer you take with the prep of the filler, the better it will look when you shoot the paint. Its also important to be very mindfull of rust when youre doing the paint, leave no metal exposed even on the inside of the arch..
You cool with painting? Cus black is the easiest colour to shoot from a rattle can, you can get almost factory finish provided its a flat black. Im not sure it'll have the same longevity as a factory finish tho.. haha. If youre not sure how to paint it, i can run you through that too, its pretty easy cus its all in the finish really.
If that makes sense, i'll be surpised
Paz
Right Paul, here is what i did..
First, just roll the lips under. Slowly work your way around tapping/hitting the metal lip up untill its folded up a fair way, be sure to do it gradually to avoid splitting the metal. Then get your metal block (solid, heavy but small is best) and put it on the outside of your arch and then hammer at it, but from the inside of the arch, hitting the lip inwards.. Again, go gradually but you can get the lip up so it touches the actual arch, so its basically vertical. The slower you do it and the less harsh the fold, the less the metal will split, but it does take ages this way but its for the best. Btw, putting the metal block on your paint will scratch the shit out of it, so if you just wanna roll them, put a rag around it.
Then, on the 86 i just started at the front of the arch (on the rear), say about 8 inches up from the outer sill and worked my way across to the rear of the arch, flaring slightly more each time and gradually bringing the flare in as i worked up the arch. Now, on the 86 i used the metal block again on the outside of the arch so you are hitting something solid instead of the arch flapping about as you hammer, i presume you can do the same to acheive your desired flare. Gradually tease the metal out, again the slower you do it, the less splitting there will be, but on the rear the arch will be double skinned and that really makes it hard to be gentle. I found (afterwards) it best to hammer the inner skin inwards before you start flaring, so that it was the same shape as the outer arch basically. I think you'll understand what i mean when you stick your hand under your arch and feel the shape of the inner arch...
Now, this usually gives a smooth, gradual flare (but the metal on the outside will be messy) and not a definitive line like on that R32 above. Now, if youre happy with the smoother look, you just need to use the filler as an ugly bird does with make up, basically just smooth it over all the the mess you just made and sand it down so that your left with a nice smooth finish. I reckon if you use a sanding block and enough filler, or if you work the flare enough, you could actually get a definitive line like on that one above... Worth a try, however they may be welded on and smoothed over. But the important thing to remember with the filler is that you can attempt it again and again untill youre happy with it, keep playing with it. Start with rough as fuck paper to get your basic shape then work your way down to 1500's wet for a final finish. The longer you take with the prep of the filler, the better it will look when you shoot the paint. Its also important to be very mindfull of rust when youre doing the paint, leave no metal exposed even on the inside of the arch..
You cool with painting? Cus black is the easiest colour to shoot from a rattle can, you can get almost factory finish provided its a flat black. Im not sure it'll have the same longevity as a factory finish tho.. haha. If youre not sure how to paint it, i can run you through that too, its pretty easy cus its all in the finish really.
If that makes sense, i'll be surpised
Paz
Paz
-NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- UK Drift Since 2001
Kenny said:how long it took you to do 1 arch PAZ?? could you run through it again with me when i see you next??
The front arches took a day, and the rear arches a bit less but i did them the day before a D1 thingy so i had to rush em.. I'll run you through it when i see you again dude
Paz