Joseph Watson
New Member
What's up guys I'm new as f*ck on this forum so lemme just say I am a beginner drifter. I initially bought it in February of 2020 and have DD it since now (except I havent driven it since New years because of weather so its in a garage) Solid unabused motor some over 115k miles, Super clean black leather interior with black Vader seats (some wear). Alot of preventative maintenance has been done to it, both from the pervious owner and I. No CEL, UCC Catylist Back, and no rust that I know of. Planned on boosting it and making it my drift car but I really wanted a 240 so I'm looking to pass her on. Sr20's are cheaper and have more support compared to rebuilding and such, as a beginner who's not the wealthiest I have to be money conscience here. Easy to boost and shes definitely capable. I bought in February of 2020 with 105k miles. It was compression tested, Passed with flying colors all cylinders within 1% of each other. NGK spark plugs, E Bay 1 piece headlights, replaced water pump, ECS TUNING over-driven water pump pulley, Replaced thermostat and aluminum Thermostat housing, idler and tension pulleys, A/C and Drive belts, drive belt tension, New(ish) lower control arms, Bilstine Struts (although I prefer OEM struts), REVSHIFT green control arm bushings front, New sway bar end links, Diff fluid changed with REDLINE racing oils(Before I bought), Transmission fluid changed with ROYAL PURPLE(Before I bought), Stainless Steel Brake lines, Oil changed every 3000 miles using 10w/ 40 Synthetic Mobil, Premium Gas only, brass clutch pedal bushings from gragetastic, nice condor shift boot. Aluminum expansion tank but i havent put it on since the mishimoto shroud and fan is on backorder, i plan to do it all at once (or if I trade it ill just give the parts to u), New OEM rear shocks, Remanufactured Rear left caliper from Turner Motorsports aswell. All thats really needed for boost now is a Copper spacer with a Cutring gasket, Resurfaced head, ARP Head Studs, and a cxracing kit plus tune really. You'd also wanna atleast rebuild the vanos if you dont stage 2 it but its nothing cash killing. Those were my next steps, until I sat down and realized I would rather choose the most *economical* way of a not so wallet friendly hobby. I dont really care for money, but if I would take cash, it'd be for around $11k. Sr20det (latest the year the better), 1jz, or even rb swaps in a S-chassis would be the most ideal. I have a couple vids for you to hear it aswell. Last owner tried to color match the right backdoor and front fender but just barely felt short haha.
Last edited:
