hicas lock bars
- Thread starter Robbs
- Start date
and is it worth forking out the bit extra for the tomei kit.
TwinturboCH
Active Member
Good question, was thinking this myself the other day since I need one of the two 
Robbs
FRANTIC
i just spoke to rising sun performance and they've told me, that with the lock bar you can do away with all the hicas stuff (pump ect) therefore saving a bit of weight
, and with the tomei one you cant, so not really worth the extra cash 
.
sorry
dont wanna lose you sale's 
. please correct if this is wrong 
, and with the tomei one you cant, so not really worth the extra cash .sorry
dont wanna lose you sale's . please correct if this is wrong
TwinturboCH
Active Member
Cool, so for once the cheaper option is better. Wahoo!!robbs said:i just spoke to rising sun performance and they've told me, that with the lock bar you can do away with all the hicas stuff (pump ect) therefore saving a bit of weight
sorry
Righto, they both do different things and there's a couple of different forms of HICAS so here's a quick overview:
S13/HCR32/A31/C33 all have hydraulic HICAS, this is another hydraulic steering rack like the front one but with less range of movement. It's controlled by the HICAS computer and powered by the same power steering pump as the front steering.
ECR33/S14/S15 have electrical HICAS, this is an electronically controlled and electronically powered rear steering rack. There are no hydraulic lines running to the rear and the front steering rack and pump are a separate system.
You have a couple of ways of locking the HICAS which work for both types:
1) With a HICAS lock bar like the Kazama kit, you replace the rear steering rack with a solid bar. The HICAS computer is left confused by this and will permanently light your dashboard HICAS light (until you pull the bulb out)
If you have hydraulic HICAS, the kit includes bits to block up the pipework either at the back of the car, or at the pump if you want to take the pipework off totally. If you are blocking up the pipework or pump, we would recommend that you take the back of the pump off and remove the vanes that connect the front of the pump to the back as this stops the rear of the pump from trying to pressurise a closed system which just generates resistance and therefore heat.
If you have electronic HICAS, there's nothing to block up and no pump alterations to make.
2) With the Tomei kit, you leave the standard HICAS rack in place, but use special washers to lock it in place which means it can't move either side. You then get a an electronic box of tricks which tells the HICAS computer everything is fine, but that it doesn't need to move anything anywhere.
Both things do a similar job, but in different ways.
The Tomei kit should be an easier install if you're happy with a bit of wiring, the Kazama kit works best if you're looking for a way to totally get rid of the standard system.
Hope this makes sense, any questions, just ask
S13/HCR32/A31/C33 all have hydraulic HICAS, this is another hydraulic steering rack like the front one but with less range of movement. It's controlled by the HICAS computer and powered by the same power steering pump as the front steering.
ECR33/S14/S15 have electrical HICAS, this is an electronically controlled and electronically powered rear steering rack. There are no hydraulic lines running to the rear and the front steering rack and pump are a separate system.
You have a couple of ways of locking the HICAS which work for both types:
1) With a HICAS lock bar like the Kazama kit, you replace the rear steering rack with a solid bar. The HICAS computer is left confused by this and will permanently light your dashboard HICAS light (until you pull the bulb out)
If you have hydraulic HICAS, the kit includes bits to block up the pipework either at the back of the car, or at the pump if you want to take the pipework off totally. If you are blocking up the pipework or pump, we would recommend that you take the back of the pump off and remove the vanes that connect the front of the pump to the back as this stops the rear of the pump from trying to pressurise a closed system which just generates resistance and therefore heat.
If you have electronic HICAS, there's nothing to block up and no pump alterations to make.
2) With the Tomei kit, you leave the standard HICAS rack in place, but use special washers to lock it in place which means it can't move either side. You then get a an electronic box of tricks which tells the HICAS computer everything is fine, but that it doesn't need to move anything anywhere.
Both things do a similar job, but in different ways.
The Tomei kit should be an easier install if you're happy with a bit of wiring, the Kazama kit works best if you're looking for a way to totally get rid of the standard system.
Hope this makes sense, any questions, just ask
TwinturboCH
Active Member
Cheers James Kazama it it 
Kazama it it 