Hydro troubles. Tried goddamn everything, even dual calipers, still won't locks up properly.

ElTorro

ElTorro

Commie bastard
Hey guys, my name is Pete, and I'm cursed with a goddamn r32 hydro. I've done my research, please don't be mad, I'm stuck and in need of proper help.

First of all, here's the list of shit that I've done:
* Dual Calipers (!)
* Stock r32 n/a rear 1pot brakes with fresh pads
* Wilwood .625 with external tank
* All new 5mm copper lines
* Okay-ish hydro base in the stock handbrake position
* Bled properly 2 times, even with calipers removed from the hub

The handbrake feels stiff. Locks-up-ish only when car is thrown hard, i.e. in a massive flick or mid-drift. Even when it locks up, it feels weak and requires a lot of force on a hydro to get it to lock.

The shittiest part is that this cylinder had worked perfectly with these calipers 3 years ago on a simple inline setup. Like, it locked rear wheels absolutely dead, when going 80mph on a straight highway. Then it all gone to shit, after some simple caliper change and bleed, after every new component, it got worse every time.

Now the bloody thing feels useless, and I don't know the reason why. I tried everything basic thing that was recomended here. Only thing that I didn't do is a bigger master cylinder, but only because Wilwood .625 was generally proven to be the best one and worked on this car some time ago. My friends with turbo brakes have the same issues, I'm not sure it's caliper size related.

I'm absolutely fucking stuck. I've wasted a shit ton of money and time on this thing. Would love to hear some suggestions or ideas.

Here's the setup

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Here's the car situation, just to clarify that I'm not a retard.

p9DOqqakLuY.jpg


edit: tbh, I'm thinking about installing a brake booster on a hydro. I'm so fucking tired of trying to do this proper.
 
Does kinda sound like a cylinder problem, either it's not big enough or it's actually leaking.
 
r3k1355 said:
Does kinda sound like a cylinder problem, either it's not big enough or it's actually leaking.
Click to expand...
I doubt it's leaking, it's a brand new unit. Plus I had the old one which worked almost exactly like this.
I had thoughts about the cylinder size, because I know my mate has an RX-8 with that .625 Wilwood, and it works flawlessly and effortlessly. Probably because RX has smaller pots on the rear, so cylinder ratio is better.

What baffles me that it worked fine with this cylinder a few years ago.
 
You would need smaller master cylinder, I think Wilwood do a 0.500" one.
Have you checked the pivot point between the hand brake lever and the master cylinder ? 5mm can make the difference between working great and being shite...
 
r3k1355 said:
It's a brand new unit that also worked perfectly a few years ago??
Click to expand...
It was the old used unit, but I can't really see the difference between their performance, the old one started feeling bad, so I swapped it for a new one, no joy.

oscar said:
You would need smaller master cylinder, I think Wilwood do a 0.500" one.
Have you checked the pivot point between the hand brake lever and the master cylinder ? 5mm can make the difference between working great and being shite...
Click to expand...
Wait, smaller? I was under the impression that the bigger the cylinder, the more force applied to calipers. I thought if I will get an even smaller cylinder, there sould be even less force. The travel with current one is pretty short though.
Please, enlighten me on this one if you can!

edit: fuck, I'm a doofus in the morning. Just found this thread, which states that you're 100% correct. But the question is, what I'm losing by installing a smaller one? My current handle setup has little travel right now. Sounds like exactly what I need, more force for less travel?

This is the handle setup.
2a5ede0d61096dc6116f9d62a3bd68fa.jpg
 
Last edited:
Travel will increase but it will be more progressive if you use a smaller cylinder.
The same will happen if you move the pivot points closer together.
In each case you will get more force.
 
oscar said:
Travel will increase but it will be more progressive if you use a smaller cylinder.
The same will happen if you move the pivot points closer together.
In each case you will get more force.
Click to expand...
I see. I just wasted 3 hours searching, and only company that sells cylinders that are less than .625 is Wilwood, and it comes like 100+ euros, which is extremely expensive.
I will try to move pivot points closer, the if it won't work, I will rip all that crap off and will install stock drum handbrake.

Thanks mate, I appreciate it.
 
SOLVED.

Huge thanks to Oscar!

oscar said:
Travel will increase but it will be more progressive if you use a smaller cylinder.
The same will happen if you move the pivot points closer together.
In each case you will get more force.
Click to expand...

I've mounted the hande vertically and drilled (not withoud hassle) a new hole closer to the handle axle, thus moving pivot points together. Worked ace, now I'm getting decent locking without a crazy force on a handle.
 
Hi guys, Sorry for digging this thread out, but im currently on the f***ing same problem.
I dont quite understand what you mean with pivot points?! Englisch translater says bullshit...can someone explain a little bit more in detail?
I have the same handbrake like shown above.
 
Sorry, understood it now....putting the "turning points" closer together has the same effect like making the lever longer, with the disadvantage of a longer travel.
Made a little sketch and then I got it :D
 
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