Alrightey its been a long while 
lots has happened, some good some bad but overall pretty content how things are going.
There is something so damn satisfying knowing your shell is rust free.
From when I had got the car, there were so many things that were to be taken out of the car and replaced. Nothing overly major but everything that clutters the interior and exterior. I like to call it the Teardown stage
Brown Interior pulls the chicks..well my girlfriend anyway
Everything in Black makes the world a better place.
Got hold of a black dash
And proceeded to spray everything in black
Then I wired in a Oil Pressure Gauge.
lots has happened, some good some bad but overall pretty content how things are going.There is something so damn satisfying knowing your shell is rust free.
From when I had got the car, there were so many things that were to be taken out of the car and replaced. Nothing overly major but everything that clutters the interior and exterior. I like to call it the Teardown stage
Brown Interior pulls the chicks..well my girlfriend anyway
Everything in Black makes the world a better place.
Got hold of a black dash
And proceeded to spray everything in black
Then I wired in a Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Most of you do the work yourselves if you run into mechanical problems, however some of you know that one problem you just can't track down..
When i received the car, it had a slight miss at idle, I played around in Nistune but couldn't get it to stop missing.
so Maintenance items were next,
New Dizzy cap and Rotor Button and new Coil.
At which point the problem was still persistent.
I decided to remove the crap from the boot,
Each tuner says different things in regard of fault finding, some want to keep the car for a week to find the fault charging you 3000$ some just want a box of beers.
But for me I was certain I could find the issue
So i started looking into wiring..
Scary to think that in a moment, It could have gone up in flames.
The previous owner had actually put the wiring loom straight under the rear housing of the turbo causing it all to burn and melt together, therefore blowing up every single fuse possible upon them making contact near the o2 sensor wiring and the exhaust.
While it still ran, I managed to go and get a Mod plate done, which is like a cert saying all the modifications are legal. So atleast I did that before it went off the road.
I then proceeded to redo the wiring thinking I can cut and rewire it all myself. I saw guides on the Calibration wire and the Z32 MAF however there were around 3-4 different ones to follow and the one I chose to follow was not a good one as it was completely backwards.
Causing me to blow the 400$ Genuine MAF sensor into oblivion providing 12v to a signal wire source and vice versa.
Out came the Loom.
Old Drift Teks fit perfectly on the rear. But way way way too wide for the front.
With the new Loom in and the power back better then ever.
Was time to clear up the cooling system, the Old Radiator which i actually sold for 100$ I decided to opt out for something that will do its job
Gearbox oil / Diff oil changed
Got the Door cards rewrapped in Blackkkkk
New Gearknob
So the Plans now are the following
-----------------
PROFESSIONALLY Respraying Roof / Boot / Bonnet in Black next saturday.
Then the next week Respraying Bottom 2 tone from grey to black.
Exhaust time! Don't know whether to go with a twin 3 inch pipes and a little hot dog or a straight through with a cannon off my old r33.
Cheers
When i received the car, it had a slight miss at idle, I played around in Nistune but couldn't get it to stop missing.
so Maintenance items were next,
New Dizzy cap and Rotor Button and new Coil.
At which point the problem was still persistent.
I decided to remove the crap from the boot,
Each tuner says different things in regard of fault finding, some want to keep the car for a week to find the fault charging you 3000$ some just want a box of beers.
But for me I was certain I could find the issue
So i started looking into wiring..
Scary to think that in a moment, It could have gone up in flames.
The previous owner had actually put the wiring loom straight under the rear housing of the turbo causing it all to burn and melt together, therefore blowing up every single fuse possible upon them making contact near the o2 sensor wiring and the exhaust.
While it still ran, I managed to go and get a Mod plate done, which is like a cert saying all the modifications are legal. So atleast I did that before it went off the road.
I then proceeded to redo the wiring thinking I can cut and rewire it all myself. I saw guides on the Calibration wire and the Z32 MAF however there were around 3-4 different ones to follow and the one I chose to follow was not a good one as it was completely backwards.
Causing me to blow the 400$ Genuine MAF sensor into oblivion providing 12v to a signal wire source and vice versa.
Out came the Loom.
Old Drift Teks fit perfectly on the rear. But way way way too wide for the front.
With the new Loom in and the power back better then ever.
Was time to clear up the cooling system, the Old Radiator which i actually sold for 100$ I decided to opt out for something that will do its job
Gearbox oil / Diff oil changed
Got the Door cards rewrapped in Blackkkkk
New Gearknob
So the Plans now are the following
-----------------
PROFESSIONALLY Respraying Roof / Boot / Bonnet in Black next saturday.
Then the next week Respraying Bottom 2 tone from grey to black.
Exhaust time! Don't know whether to go with a twin 3 inch pipes and a little hot dog or a straight through with a cannon off my old r33.
Cheers
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Couch Time
haha its like being at home on a couch I guess you do get thrown around quite a bit, will get some brides or simular later on I reckon I was thinking though of getting them rewrapped in full leather and raising the sides and removing some of the padding from the middle of the seat and the back part since I can get them both rewrapped from a good friend of mine for around 300$ for both. So would technically be cheaper and look good. I don't know if it would be lighter though since stock seats are pretty heavy.
Yeah bud, 30's are known for their low down torque, its pretty impressive considering that the high flow hits full boost at 3.2k which is fairly early but spool is very fast under 3k combine that with a good exhaust manifold and
haha its like being at home on a couch I guess you do get thrown around quite a bit, will get some brides or simular later on I reckon I was thinking though of getting them rewrapped in full leather and raising the sides and removing some of the padding from the middle of the seat and the back part since I can get them both rewrapped from a good friend of mine for around 300$ for both. So would technically be cheaper and look good. I don't know if it would be lighter though since stock seats are pretty heavy.
Yeah bud, 30's are known for their low down torque, its pretty impressive considering that the high flow hits full boost at 3.2k which is fairly early but spool is very fast under 3k combine that with a good exhaust manifold and
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Yeah I think would be pretty decent, as well as the cheapest option, the guy who does the reupholstery is a retired feller and he owns his own home so he isn't trying to make over head and as well as my boss knows him and he gets his car serviced at our workshop.
Today I removed the stupid stickers along the body moulding, which were white which are ugly as hell because they are half off half on..[
Tomorrow the carpet is getting thrown out and I am going to start on the sound deadening. No more brown even if it pulls the chicks
.Looking into some coilovers, have my ones out of my R33 just going to swap the top hats over,
but for the front.
http://www.garage7.com.au/home/inde...tegory_id=240&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
Seems easy enough
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Alrightey well on the weekend I took it slow and lazy Finished off a few things that bugged me
Car is now ready for strip and paint for saturday
Got the seatbelts out of my R33
Benefit of having a rust free car, you challenge yourself to find rust.. but..don't succeed :/
It almost feels like this car was garaged all of its life but under a open plan living garage with a glass roof as it has sun damage.. yet no rust and is surprisingly clean.
So anyone have any ideas on Colour schemes? if you have examples please feel free to post them up.
Main colour is Gloss Black and I have a week to decide
Car is now ready for strip and paint for saturday
Got the seatbelts out of my R33
Benefit of having a rust free car, you challenge yourself to find rust.. but..don't succeed :/
It almost feels like this car was garaged all of its life but under a open plan living garage with a glass roof as it has sun damage.. yet no rust and is surprisingly clean.
So anyone have any ideas on Colour schemes? if you have examples please feel free to post them up.
Main colour is Gloss Black and I have a week to decide
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dazzatrone
Member
Gloss black, bright yellow detail....yup
Slight teaser of what's to come
Got some gauges
Electronic Boost gauge and a Oil Pressure and a Volt gauge.
Got a Bracket
Finally lowered on coilovers.
Customshitforar31ftw
Had to roll the gaurds, still scrubs like hell with 235's on a 9.5 inch rim. Can't go down a size because I'll have absolutely no grip in any gear. 225's it rips 3rd :/
Also is anyone able to tell me anything about the sparkplugs? Am I running slightly rich? or?
Got some gauges
Electronic Boost gauge and a Oil Pressure and a Volt gauge.
Got a Bracket
Finally lowered on coilovers.
Customshitforar31ftw
Had to roll the gaurds, still scrubs like hell with 235's on a 9.5 inch rim. Can't go down a size because I'll have absolutely no grip in any gear. 225's it rips 3rd :/
Also is anyone able to tell me anything about the sparkplugs? Am I running slightly rich? or?
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Time for a bit of an update Sorted rear ride height Waiting on the new rims for the front to arrive on the container before I adjust the fronts down.
Made up my new lip and bolted it on
Luse
Plans now, are
- Two front replacement Drift Tek's in 8.5j +25 (Arriving in 2 weeks on a container).
(ones off the R33 are 9.5 and way too wide for the front as well as one is uberdamaged.)
- S13 Adjustable LCA and Hubs.
- Coilovers to suit with Camber adjustable
- Redrill my R33 Rotors to 4 stud
- Get my Calipers out of my R33 to fit on the R31
- Start on Exhaust going 2.5 inch Dump pipe change over to 3 Inch just before the Wastegate replumb and 3 inch mandrel bent the rest. With a choice of Cannon or Twin pipes hmm....
- Relocate Battery to Boot.
- Remove majority of the wiring that's in the engine bay and tidy the crap out of it.
Sorted rear ride height Waiting on the new rims for the front to arrive on the container before I adjust the fronts down.Made up my new lip and bolted it on
Luse
Plans now, are
- Two front replacement Drift Tek's in 8.5j +25 (Arriving in 2 weeks on a container).
(ones off the R33 are 9.5 and way too wide for the front as well as one is uberdamaged.)
- S13 Adjustable LCA and Hubs.
- Coilovers to suit with Camber adjustable
- Redrill my R33 Rotors to 4 stud
- Get my Calipers out of my R33 to fit on the R31
- Start on Exhaust going 2.5 inch Dump pipe change over to 3 Inch just before the Wastegate replumb and 3 inch mandrel bent the rest. With a choice of Cannon or Twin pipes hmm....
- Relocate Battery to Boot.
- Remove majority of the wiring that's in the engine bay and tidy the crap out of it.
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murdered-out
Member
Hi there, great project,
how did you do the custom coilovers ? i've a r30 , thanks alot
how did you do the custom coilovers ? i've a r30 , thanks alot
