Perspex\Lexan\Polycarbonate window glass

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Daddy_D

D1 street king
From the recent search I've done and old information gathered, I still have a few specific question regarding making my car lighter by using plexiglass.
First thing and most imporatantly, I want to know if I replace all my windows apart from the front windscreen/windshield would the car pass MOT? If not how about just all 3 rear windows (current plan as I'll keep el.glass) with the excuse that no passangers are riding in the back?!

And this brings me to what type of plastic to use as a daily driver. I like to use Polycarbonate as I understood it's the strongest piece, no need to handle it carefully, you can driver over it and it won't brake, it will never shatter in an accident, it costs the same as perspex, but it has a weak point which is scratching. I live in a area where there is a lot of small streets with hedges I always hit when passing another vehicle and I'm worried that when it gets scratched I can't bring it back to high visibility. Can I have some feedback from a guy who had them already fitted? Are they really that bad?
If this is the case then the other option is Perspex, which from what I read it can shatter (not worried about that) but if I wash it with a specific solvent the scratches disappear.

As for fitting I never though about it yet. My plan was to get this done on a tramp drift budget meaning, buy a whole sheet of 3000x1000mm, cut to size (roughly), rivet trough the metal and add some silicone so I don't get wet. This will be just like my sunroof I'm preparing to get drilled.
Other method I heard was order it from a proper supplier cut to size and fit it in the rubber gap as the original glass. Possibly more expensive?

What do you guys suggest I do?
 
I have all the windows in my mini replaced with Polycarb. Barring the front screen. MOT-wise ive never had any problems nor advisory notices. The windows for my car came from Plastics 4 Performance - Specialist Manufacturers for the Motorsports Industry. I dont know what car your doing it to but it might be worth giving them a ring. As for the country roads/hedges i never really had any problems down here in cornwall, but my windows are scratched to hell from the sliding window hatch where bits of dirt have made its way between the layers.

I put mine in the original rubbers and rails, did up the wnidow and locked it down with a bolt. Then when i fitted door cards i just blanked over where the window winder should have been. Thus making it a good fit, but also removable without leaving holes etc.
 
I think the MSA specify Polycarb for rallying. Modern car headlamps are often made of it (focus for example) and I think it can be fairly scratch resistant. If you do scratch it buff it out with plastic polish, its not that big a deal.
 
I got some poly lexan form a plastics company ill find the name again its got a teflon coatting preventing it from scrathing its awsome stuff but costs alot.
 
Polycarb wont be a MOT fail as technically you dont need windows in your car to pass an MOT. As long as the windscreen is intact you can do what you want with the other windows.

If you want to protect it from scratching then you could always coat the poly carb with a protective film, you can get all sort of clear film to prevent scratches / chips to paint work so I dont see why these couldnt be applied to a window.

Going to fit Poly carb in my 86, back and sides and hopefully retain windable polycarb in the doors, rather than having a postage slot.
 
Having a soft top with frameless windows means polycarb isn't an option for me sadly, unless I could get stuff that wound up and down with the window. Can't see it happening sadly.
 
I´m also replacing my rear windows with possibly polycarbonate. Couldn´t you cover them with transparent film to prevent scratching.
 
going on past experiance with polycarbonate (7 years in the conservatory/window fitting stage) it is possible to clean out abrasions in plastic and poly carbonate. i know its a slightly different thing before i get slated into (windows in houses and car windows) but by using winzer wurth type 20 solvent cleaner it will cut back the scratch, then by using w.w type 10 cleaner it will polish back so its less than noticeable. would advise trying this process on a piece of scrap plastic to make sure though.
also a clean piece of paper is advised (not a4 paper) so a big bog roll is advised as once the rag/paer is dirty it will recontact grit on your window, which you DONT want ;)
 
I have polycarbed a friends manta for him, Just done the back half as he had frameless doors in the front,I just cut the poly to fit and then fitted it into a rubber in the back and bonded the sides in,theyu were originally opening which gave us little aperture to work with but if prepared proerly it will be fine, When he put the new roof on it he had to destroy them to get them out!,You havent mentioned what car you have for me to offer better advice,I have fitted full poly windows into a EVO6 at Performance Autoworks , they will tell you where to get it from as all this was precut and moulded to the car at a cost of around £200 ,as for scratching meguires plastix will remove loads of stuff, if its really deep then sand it back with 2000 grit sand paper and polish out using a buffer, owning a Supra with plastic headlights teaches you a few tricks!
 
The car in question is a BMW E36 4 doors. However I'm not sure if I want to keep the rubber seals, plus I heard that somebody had them pop out on the motorway at high speed. Not to mention it will look bad ass with rivets. Still not decided but looking from a building company to see if I can get it cheaper.
 
Using polycarbonate sheets is of good experience. Since a year I am using, as roofing of house still no complaints regarding it. Yes agree it a different material, good to use as compare to others.
 
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