R Chassis Geomaster Knuckles - installation notes and issues (R33 GTst)

frozenwaffles

New Member
Hello fellow drifters :)
So a few notes on all the bits you need if you want to put these R chassis knuckles in your car...
(this is written in context of an R33 GTst)

First, when you order everything from Driftworks (knuckles, offset rack spacers, great hicas eliminator kit) don't forget to order a steering boot kit. You need this to work properly with the offset rack spacers!

Second, you will need S14 front hubs. If you are buying these new you will probably also want studs to go with these. You will need to press them in. You will also need S14/15 spindle nuts! These you will have to order from Nissan. The part number from ordering them in Australia was 01222500591 (number from FAST is 40262).

Third, the rear hub bearing bolts that bolt the bearing to the hub are too long and have too much shoulder. you will need to get new high tensile bolts for this. I can't remember exactly how long the new ones are that i bought, probably at least 10mm shorter, but the big issue is the shoulder. The factory ones won't do up tight so you need a bolt with no shoulder or only 5mm worth. Washers are included in the kit which is nice :)

Fourth, if you are using aftermarket front lower control arms (LCA) you will need to check the angle of the ball joint is 'kicked back towards the car' enough. Hard to explain, but a factory arm will be fine. A DW adjustable arm will be fine. A GKtech arm will be fine. An early design Hardrace arm will NOT be fine! Same with KKR. If you google lots of pictures you will quickly see what I'm talking about as some arms have a 'kick up' angle that is probably only 5-10deg while DW for example have 20-30 deg kick up. You much have this angle on the ball joint otherwise the joint will bind or 'bottom out' (not sure of the correct term here) when the wheels are in a straight position.

Fifth, you will probably have to drill out the holes for the front and/or rear brake callipers. They are not drilled perfectly centre... :( Also note that the factory bolts will be too long and make contact with the brake disc!!!!!!!!n I learnt this the hard way and had the bolts create sone really nice wide 'canyons' in my brake discs! Grind these factory bolts back by about 5mm and you will be fine. otherwise get new bolts. You could pack them out with washers, but i don't think thats so cool. Bolts are cheap...don't cheap out, but bolts!

Sixth, since the spindles have now shifted up and the camber arm outer pickup up points are a fixed distance to the hubs/spindles...your old tyres/wheels may no longer fit! Mine certainly don't. As a result you will have all sorts of fitment issues. My 235/40R18s do not fit! not even close. Im going to try and get 225/35R18s or put 235/40R17s on. Also 10inch wide front wheels are too big. Im not 100% sure just yet, but i have some more tests to do.

Seventh, currently i have a big issue with the steering getting to a certain point of turn (left or right, about one full rotation) and then wheel actually wants to keep turning and not return to centre. you have to really work to get the car back to centre. I think the wheel is running on the camber arms and this is why, but I'm not sure yet. need to change wheel sizes and compare. Do the DW Knuckles get rid of the Ackerman effect completely???

I have wheel offset of -30 and i have 28mm of spacers on the front.

I hope some of this info helps other people. If anyone has any advice they can offer please feel free to add to this thread.
Once i finalise everything and have the car setup sweet i will add the extra info here.

I will post some photos up of the install when i get a chance...
 
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Hi peeps, good to see 137 views...would be nice if there were some comments, but maybe no one has anything to say.

Update about the steering issues... My 235/40R18s were clearly way too big! i changed to 255/35/R17s and everything is wonderful!

All i need to do now is remove my font swayer (or get a custom one made) and change to offset tension rods and i will be able to get the full lock the Driftworks Knuckles offer...

the geometry of all the suspension of the car is amazing now though. rear tyre wear is perfect and flat/even. all the arms are in factory positions. BC coilers are set to to full height so they are as close to stock length/height as possible.
 
Thanks for the updates, was it the wheel height that caused the issue or width/offset. What size wheel are you running with the 17?
 
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