S14 SR20DET - Starting and running issues.

JamieSR

New Member
Hi there, after days of non stop reading on forums I've finally had to give in and ask for myself as I've recently purchase my Import S14 and have little knowledge of the car.

The car was hunting 400-600 rpm on idle. Also every now and then the car would just lose power completely (no throttle response) then cut out, go to start it again and it would just crank without turning over and stink of fuel. Leave the car for half an hour to cool down I suppose and it would splutter to life. It's fine whilst driving as long as you didn't put the clutch in as it would cut out. I found out the car would run without my Z32 MAF plugged in but would idle horribly again when it was started with it.

I acted on a friends suggestion and replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro 255, but when priming the sound has got a lot lower pitched and slower than the usual whine they give off, it now sounds like a moan. This happened before the pump replacement and still exists.

I've also replaced the fuel filter, coil packs, coilpack loom and the spark plugs. I've checked for boost and vac leaks, checked continuity on the wiring for certain censors, checked the harness on the ecu and nothing seems irregular.

Any suggestions on what I should have a go at next would be much appreciated as unfortunately the car is my daily and I require it for work and it won't start at all now, it will crank go to turn over but give up instantly and then just keep cranking again.

Thanks in advanced :)
 
Was planning on ordering a new Z32 but couldn't justify paying £300 if it may not fix it and I can't find anyone local to me with one either :(
 
Daft as it sounds maybe clean the throttlebody? Or could be an injector problem, just my two cents, surely somebody more knowledgable will save the day!
 
I'm giving every possibility a try so thanks for the suggestion, the car could use some tlc anyway.

I have visually checked the O rings on the injectors so there's no leaking but I haven't had them out to check for blockages. I think they're uprated to cope with the modifications and power I'm getting but I'm not completely sure.
 
Well if its in need of tlc just double check everything....pull the plugs and check for spark on each etc....put some cleaner additive through the fuel system...check fuel pump relays n fuses again...process of elimination...n clean that TB! Ha...good luck with it im sure it will be simple...im off to bed its late my brains mush enough when im not tired :)
 
Do a compression test to be on the safe side, also try putting jump leads on and see if it helps, check all your earths and possibility could be ignitor chip should be down near the standard boost valve on passenger side
 
Thanks for the suggestion Gary, forgot to mention I had tried another ignition amp already though and I also used the method of adding extra earths with jump leads and no such luck.

Got up bright and early today and using the paperclip method I retrieved the stored codes on my ECU. It threw up 12- MAF Sensor but this is probably just because I have the car running without the MAF plugged in I would guess and I also got 34 - Knock Sensor.

Heard the knock senor is horrifically hard to replace and not that cheap. But guess I'm going to have to give it a go will keep this thread updated as to whether or not this sorts the issue but I wouldn't have thought the knock sensor could cause all this I thought it would only mildy retard the timing to a safety mode to stop detonation not completely cut the car out.
 
do you have a dump valve / BOV? if so take it off. singlepiston valves cause problems on sr's with the maf been before the turbo.

or leaking injector o ring... was there fuel in the inlet manifold? fuel on the pistons?
 
I have got a HKS Sequential BOV but took it off stripped it down and checked that for any leaks reassembling and sealing it.

I could smell fuel on the plugs after trying to start but haven't checked the inlet for fuel yet. I'll have a look into it.
 
i would try it without the bov on, just block the hole up with something. might be a cheap fix as you don't need one anyway.
And clean the z32 with contact cleaner if you haven't already
 
I did use some ECC on the MAF and it ran better for about 5 minutes.

I also cleaned off my HKS mushroom as it was black.
 
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