Weld or na?

Ramon

Ramon

Member
I own a 1.8 NA (euro market) MX-5 with what I'm guessing is a VLSD.. not sure tho. It does one wheel peels in some conditions. Obv I love to get sideways, but if I don't swing the weight enough I notice it burning one wheel only and it doesn't get sideways.


I'm thinking about welding the diff, but I've never driven a welded diff before. This car IS my only car, but I use my parents' car for driving more ppl or load. I use it to drive to school/work and it is in very good condition.. still worth about 2000 - 2500 euros. Should I weld or not? ;\ what would a used diff cost me if I wanted to keep the original for selling?



Atm it is on lowering springs and has some shit intake, but besides that it doesn't have a whole lot modded.

I could say I'm an experienced driver, I know where the limits are.. I expect under- or over-steer before it happens and I can estimate slipperiness. I am not experienced in high speed drifting. I've never been to a track, my only experience is on public roads and parking lots. Again, weld or na? :p
 
Swampy442 said:
Hmmmmmmmm. Anyway just weld it, and get a spare for when you sell it. Not like they are expensive.
Click to expand...

R u doubting my skills? xD jk im terrible, but still.. way more aware than the average driver is.
Anyway, thanks for the reply

I found a place selling a used "1.8 diff" for 250 euros but they look like this
0016.jpg


While mine is like this
sDQXPEU.jpg


DHaxsHS.jpg


Idk how u call the difference in English, but mine doesn't have plates with bolts, but its an axle with gears that u just push in ;\ are they rare?
 
Alot of 1.6 diffs have push fit splined shafts. 1.8 diffs are stronger but have slightly longer ratios. VLSDs are common and not particularly valuable; if I were you I would just weld up the VLSD, it's easily done.

250 euros is alot for just a diff and you will need driveshafts as well; for that money I'd expect a Torsen LSD. The 1.6 diffs arent as strong as the 1.8s but IMO they are the best ones due to the shorter ratio final drive.
 
Bolt on/Push in shafts are interchangeable. you can hammer out the stub's from the bolt on shafts.

And just weld it.
 
Right, the options as i see it.
1. Weld it, driving an mx5 with a welder really isnt that bad, you wont eat tyres like everyone says, you wont spin out every corner. It'll drift easier, If it does start to go, go with it. Be a little more cautious in the rain. Parking attracts attention.

2. Buy a torsen, you can find them for a reasonable price on mx5's. They drive great with them and lock up nice and easy.

If you weld the diff and dont like it, then open diffs are cheap to buy anyway.
If you do have a VLSD on your car which i dont think you do, It would drift alot easier if you did, then buy an Open diff, weld it and you still have a good diff if you dont want the welded diff.
alternatively, if you do have a VLSD (you really need to check) then sell it, buy an open diff and weld the open diff, you will probably make money that way.
 
bkray said:
Parking attracts attention.
Click to expand...

Haha I lol'd xD 4real

Thanks for the tips, I'll probably check the diff.. but I'm guessing the only way to know for sure is to open it up? I don't even know what oil to use xD

Just found a torsen for 500 euros which I'm not spending, and a 1.8 open diff with push in shafts for 120 euros (excluding the shafts)

So to be clear, when welding the diff.. I can still pull out the drive-shafts to the wheels, right? So I won't need another set of shafts if I desire to swap it back to a regular open diff? (might I sell the car) or am I wrong?
 
Jack up the back, so both wheels are off the ground, spin one wheel by hand. It it turns the other wheel the same direction, you have an lsd, if they turn opposite directions, you have an open diff. (unless its a torsen, but i think you'd know if you have a torsen)
Differential Spotters Guide <--- thats a handy guide too.

i use 75w90 oil in my diff on my mx5.

When you weld a diff, you only weld the gears inside together. (the one for either side, hard to explain). google how a diff works or how to weld a diff.

you can still remove the diff and change diffs exactly the same as you would any other, the only difference is inside the diff casing is welded. if you get a diff the same as the one you already have and get it welded, then they can use the same shafts as you have now.
 
bkray said:
Jack up the back, so both wheels are off the ground, spin one wheel by hand. It it turns the other wheel the same direction, you have an lsd, if they turn opposite directions, you have an open diff. (unless its a torsen, but i think you'd know if you have a torsen)
Click to expand...

I have done that before, but the thing is.. if I turn one side, the other side kinda slips. Well it tends to go the opposite direction, it doesn't really spin. My thoughts are that one wheel might have a little more resistance that the other.. which is bad i guess ;\

Also, it doesn't feel like the open diff on the E87 at all, but that might be because of how the weight is divided. But still it does one wheel peels :p So I'm guessing it's open, if a VLSD really spins the other tire in the same direction. Or a broken torsen :(

I rlly don't know, I might crack it open or just get a used one which I'll weld, and keep the one I have closed on the shelf.
 
I've been toying with the same question recently.
Got a VSLD in my S13 and everyone has said the same thing: weld it.
Biggest issue is when you're learning to transition corners and the diff doesn't stay locked apparently.

Welder!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top