Z33 gearbox to SR20 options! Adaptors?

James D

James D

Member
Hi guys, I've been doing a lot of research into the Z33 gearbox conversion as i feel it's probably the only way i can go with my S13. The engine i have has blown 5 SR gearboxes and 2 RB gearboxes already so i don't fancy chancing another SR/CA/RB box! It's a 500Bhp straightcam SR20 which will be running a GTX3076r and used for drifting/gymkhana/autosolos/track racing etc so will be getting abused to within an inch of its life but i'll want it to not be shitting a gearbox every event.

First problem i face is obviously i don't want to take the car to mapping with the SR box i have, for it to only strip 5th gear, then 4th, 3rd, 2nd and first in no particular order so i figured sell the SR box and do it right to start off with.

From what i already know through researching (Please correct me if i am wrong with any of this):

- Gearbox is a Z33 CD009 from an 03-09 350Z however to guarantee it is the right box, 05-09 should be a safe bet because of redesigning etc. Earlier gearboxes are prone to breaking due to a poor synchro design however these boxes are triple synchro and are known to be running stock in 9 second 1/4 mile cars.
- When used with a 4:1 R33 manual diff:
~1st 36Mph
~2nd 59Mph
~3rd 84Mph
~4th 108Mph
~5th 137Mph
~6th 172Mph
- Can be used with SR20 clutch and flywheel
- SR20 starter motor fits as usual
- S13 trans tunnel needs widening however S14/S15 will fit with a bit of hammering near the bulkhead

Now, the adaptor kits that i can find consist of two options.

1. Adaptor plate (Maverick Motorsport, Collins Adapters etc)
2. New bellhousing (Mazworx kit)

Option one requires:

- Purchase of adaptor plate
- Gearbox mount + bush
- 350Z prop yoke to make custom length prop (people recommend 2 piece to remove some vibration) as the spline count is 32 on a 350Z whereas this is different to any other Nissan car. (Also think i saw a G35 prop will fit? Not sure)
- Shifter linkage must be modified forwards otherwise it'll foul on the tunnel as it is too far back (Guide here)
- Bellhousing must be machined down the thickness of the plate which in most cases the plate is 10mm, and the difference between SR box and Z33 box with spline stickout is 2.5/2.7mm so therefore a 12.5/12.7mm machining off the front face of the gearbox is required to ensure the spline engages correctly in the spigot bearing
- 350Z release fork must be used, SR release fork is too short and will not engage properly.
- Longer clutch line as the slave cylinder is moved to the other side of the gearbox

Option two requires:

- Purchase kit
- Gearbox supposedly that fits is 2003-2006 350Z
- Split gearbox, do a bit of grinding, cut material off input shaft, remove stock input shaft cover, fit new cast bellhousing (Video Here) (Written guide Here)
- Steel or Aluminium one piece prop (lighter than steel and has torsional dampening properties) or go bare cash dolla for the Carbon version - one piece from gearbox straight back to the diff
- Billet + Machined shifter + linkage mount (OOOOOH shiny)
- Shorten linkage

Either way it's an expensive conversion don't get me wrong.

Doing it with adaptor plate, you're looking at about £1500

The Mazworx kit is getting me at the moment however it'll easily be over £2k inc. box. But hopefully it'll be a one stop fix... and i don't fancy spending £300 every month on a new box - but for the extra £500 over an adaptor plate, it should (fingers crossed) be more substantial and less likely (hopefully) to crap itself...

If anyone has more experience on this and whether they could help, or whether i'm barking up the wrong tree entirely please let me know,

Cheers
 
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You're along the right tracks, more certainly than most people as they think it's a dead easy job to do. I'm fairly sure I've written about in in my build thread so that may be worth a look?

I went with the adapter plate method (Protuner's Plate) and had to do a bit of measuring to get the correct release bearing clearance. I've heard okay things about the Mazworx kit too.

Also, be careful with the CD009 scenario. I think it's 05-06, maybe 07? Some of the later 350's & 370's came with a HR gearbox, which uses a hydraulic release bearing iirc. Which when I researched my conversion a while back, those who used that gearbox in America kept popping the slave cylinder.
 
200sx_ said:
You're along the right tracks, more certainly than most people as they think it's a dead easy job to do. I'm fairly sure I've written about in in my build thread so that may be worth a look?

I went with the adapter plate method (Protuner's Plate) and had to do a bit of measuring to get the correct release bearing clearance. I've heard okay things about the Mazworx kit too.

Also, be careful with the CD009 scenario. I think it's 05-06, maybe 07? Some of the later 350's & 370's came with a HR gearbox, which uses a hydraulic release bearing iirc. Which when I researched my conversion a while back, those who used that gearbox in America kept popping the slave cylinder.
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I know it won't be a straightforward job but i love a challenge... Which is why the initial "3 week engine swap then do hero skidz" has turned into "i have a race license but no racecar... Hmmm throw lots of money at it".

Mazworx offer a tilton hydraulic release bearing kit as well ($550) however looking at the pics of the one they installed it is on the stock setup with external slave. I believe the only difference is they supply a collar that bolts on for the release bearing to sit on, then you have to use the 350z release fork like i said in the first post at the SR one is too short. If using the tilton one, that just bolts on instead of the adaptor + bearing + fork.

I'll have a look at your build thread in the morning, that could be useful thanks dude!

Theres a gearbox on ebay atm from a 47k mile 3.5 V6 2005 for £630 delivered. Sure he could void the 30 day warranty and knock some money off, if not it can't be hard to find another cheaper hopefully!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Just had a thought which is something i didn't mention in the first post

Speedo calibration

The Z33 box does not have a speed sensor on the box

People mention using an S14 ABS diff then using the ABS wires to run the signal through a frequency adjuster (such as this from Digital Dakota for example)

I presume this is pretty much the only way to make it work? Either this, or by making a toothed wheel to fit to the prop or driveshaft with a hall effect sensor.

Am i right in thinking i can buy an LSD module and fit it to an S14 case with ABS sensor? Meaning i'd have to sell my 4:1 R33 diff as otherwise i'd have to fanny about making toothed wheels and alignments and balancing stuff...
 
Should probably also add i'm looking at running a DigiDash instead of the stock instrument cluster.

Presumably this would still take the same electronic signal and would have to be calibrated to the correct road speed on the Dash
 
I'm running a Z32 box, btw the Mazworx plate you linked is the SR/VG conversion. ie SR to Z32 (300zx).

Id go with that Mazworx bellhousing kit. You can do the whole thing your self with no need to have stuff fabricated or machined.
 
diamondsink said:
I'm running a Z32 box, btw the Mazworx plate you linked is the SR/VG conversion. ie SR to Z32 (300zx).

Id go with that Mazworx bellhousing kit. You can do the whole thing your self with no need to have stuff fabricated or machined.
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Changed first post haha, good spot!

So:

VG = 300ZX Z32
VQ = 350Z Z33

Gotcha, clears that up! Thought it was a US/Aus engine code so confused me slightly.

Yeah the bellhousing option seems to look like the best choice in my eyes at the moment. Can always run Slave then swap to HR centre bearing if i have problems later down the line but don't see why i should have if i get it right to start off with.

Still not 100% sure how i'll be getting a speed reading though haha
 
use one of the ABS sensors on the front hubs for a signal for your speedo.

this means you will see the actual speed you are drifting at and not your rear wheel speed.

its what I did on my s15. the Dakota digital converter is a bit shit. if your going digi dash hold fire and see what input signal it actuall wants. sine wave / square wave etc..
 
gaz_moose said:
use one of the ABS sensors on the front hubs for a signal for your speedo.

this means you will see the actual speed you are drifting at and not your rear wheel speed.

its what I did on my s15. the Dakota digital converter is a bit shit. if your going digi dash hold fire and see what input signal it actuall wants. sine wave / square wave etc..
Click to expand...

Yeah makes sense! Only problem is i'll be running geomasters which won't accommodate for the ABS sensor annoyinglyunless i get HeatMaker knuckles which i believe to be the same problem
 
I knows this is an old post, but in doing this at the moment. So instead of machining 10mm off the housing, I fitted an s15 flywheel. And the sr clutch fork seemed identical in size and fitted better, so I used that.
 
jon1200 said:
I knows this is an old post, but in doing this at the moment. So instead of machining 10mm off the housing, I fitted an s15 flywheel. And the sr clutch fork seemed identical in size and fitted better, so I used that.
Click to expand...

Did this work?
 
Probably not much help but the protuner plate + s15 clutch/flywheel (using a ORC twin carbon), S15 clutch release bearing, early 350z gearbox bearing carrier and fork give an air gap of 10-12mm for bearing to pressure plate (if my measurements are good). So dont require cutting or hacking of anything apart from the downpipe and elbow from low oem mount turbos. (the flange hits the bellhousing and adapter plate).
 
EvilZ said:
Probably not much help but the protuner plate + s15 clutch/flywheel (using a ORC twin carbon), S15 clutch release bearing, early 350z gearbox bearing carrier and fork give an air gap of 10-12mm for bearing to pressure plate (if my measurements are good). So dont require cutting or hacking of anything apart from the downpipe and elbow from low oem mount turbos. (the flange hits the bellhousing and adapter plate).
Click to expand...
My problem is I already have a new s13 clutch setup and already have the Collins kit. I posted another post about this with a few questions haven’t got any responses so I chimed in on this thread
 
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