Cooling and Coolant

Jites

Active Member
People of DW, Im finding that running shit coolant is shit. What products have you guys used to keep shit cool that actually works?

Are there ones to avoid?

Thanks
 
Just FYI. I havent really ever used coolant in my cars.. and I think my car's maybe over heated once in the UK. Infact, the Chaser had toyota coolant in it when I bought it and it over heated all the friken time in Japan... but temps were +32'! Surface temps were higher.

The only time I have put coolant/antifreeze in a car in the UK was when I had froze my water pump because it was -30' or something. :p

Would it not be down to the air flow and how your rad/fan is setup?
Danny has coolant and his is over heating to fark.. because his fan setup is shit. He's since hooked up an additional fan and its now fine.
 
Im looking to use coolant, just something decent. I know others have had similar issues due to not using any coolant at all but my car seems to get hot very quick resulting in loss of seat time. I've always used coolant, boiling your water isn't great

Im running OEM fan with cowling, driftworks rad, an oil cooler and intercooler. Maybe its my driving style now but i didn't have this issue before?
 
Water wetter works well at bringing down temps. Also I think its Evans waterless system that some BDC cars use
 
waterless stuff is a bit problematic if you spring a leak as you can't just top it off.

weak coolant is probably best - water is a bit better at carrying heat away but will corrode everything by itself. a stronger fan, pump and rad is the real answer.
 
Water wetter works well at bringing down temps. Also I think its Evans waterless system that some BDC cars use

First we must dispel a common misconception: "Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your car's bulk coolant temperature. So if you put it in your E30 M3 hoping to see lower operational coolant temp's, then you will probably be disappointed.

"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. This harks back to Smokey Yunick's theory of "soft combustion chambers". Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. Thus, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some regions of the coolant tract.

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performance/myths/more_myths1/Water_Wetter/water_wetter.htm


.. a stronger fan, pump and rad is the real answer.

^ This. Was the first reply :p Rad/Fan setup. ;)
 
You'd be a fool to run 100% water due to anti-freeze being a corrosion if nothing else.

Water systems in cars look like proper shit in no time when running pure water.
 
also if you've found you have cooling issues after putting in some anti-freeze it might be because you've mixed the wrong types.
IIRC mix pink and green and it turns into a sludge, which clogs your rad up and causes over-heating.
 
You'd be a fool to run 100% water due to anti-freeze being a corrosion if nothing else.

Water systems in cars look like proper shit in no time when running pure water.

Yep, that's it's main function.
I always ran water and an anti-corrosive, then AF in the winter. Never had heat problems, car didn't have much power though.
 
ive used only the halfrauds stuff or pure water in emergency situations then renewed with the same coolant. never mixed two types or anything and my cars running a t28 on 0.7 bar so hardly earth shattering power

ive got a rad, ive got cowling but just wondering if there were products out there that are worth a go to improve what I have. New fan is an option but then there is the whole crank or electric driven debate which is why ive not bothered tbh.

Sounds like it will be better to swap to a better fan and are cooling panels worth buying? Never used one before and I understand the concept but does it work or internet bollocks like bonnet risers?
 
Distilled water, that's it. Renew it seasonally. If you really are planning on keeping the car for 10+ years then I hear adding few drops of dish soap like liquid ferry does the same thing watter wetter is suppose to for fraction of the price. I have not tried it though. Some places don't allow anything but water because as you probably noticed watter wetter is also oilly like coolant.
 
Might be worth just checking/flushing the rad to make sure it's not blocked, if it's the original item it's probably got a fair amount of crap/corrosion inside.

The stock cowling and fan is a setup thats pretty hard to beat to be honest.
 
Distilled water, that's it. Renew it seasonally.

Don't care about corrosion then?

Remind me never to buy any cars off you lot.

Even 100% new parts that get used for a few months without anti-freeze or some kind of corrosion inhibitor look like shit, never mind old stuff.
 
I'd be inclined to pressure test your cooling system and try a combustion leak tester on it, if your over heating with the setup you've got you have a problem elsewhere the DW rad alone should keep your temps low / stable.
If anything your setup is better the 70% of drift cars sat on the limiter all day at the pod etc.
 
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Might be worth just checking/flushing the rad to make sure it's not blocked, if it's the original item it's probably got a fair amount of crap/corrosion inside.

The stock cowling and fan is a setup thats pretty hard to beat to be honest.

please read my posts, Ive got a new rad and its less than a year old, been drained, flushed and filled then bled as per nissans instructions and always checked. Id hope that there wouldn't be any 'crap' in the new rad... haha!

This is what ive heard also, so why I left it tbh. Im going to look into the skyline fan upgrade as apparently they flow more. Ive done pretty much everything without cutting holes or upgrading fans but looks like im running out of choices.

Im going to check pump also, might just be totally fucked.
 
I'd be inclined to pressure test your cooling system and try a combustion leak tester on it, if your over heating with the setup you've got you have a problem elsewhere the DW rad alone should keep your temps low / stable.
If anything your setup is better the 70% of drift cars sat on the limiter all day at the pod etc.

thanks. Ive got decent cooling and never had a problem until end of last year when I noticed it getting hot. upgraded rad thinking mine had just past its best and still getting the issue with the new rad which is why im asking :)
 
Check pump is flowing / Impellor intact etc
Thermostat - Is opening (check in boiling water if you don't have access to a new one)
Then headgasket check as I wrote on my previous post.
 
Yeah, as above something does sound strange there. Go through everything.

What are the temps getting to? How long?
 
temps im unsure of the exact degrees but hot enough to make the stock temp gauge start to rise. It takes about 1 session with no issues (about 5 minutes) but every session after the abuse the temps rise and I come off the track. Cool down laps don't really work. its usually close to the end of the session that it gets like that.

Ive not had this issue before even when I had my oem rad until the first weekender at driftland last year. Im also thinking that because im running a little lean also is probably not helping temps either but have the parts I need to remedy this now and should be mapping this week anyway.

the cars been skidded by myself for 4 years and the pumps not been looked at nor has the thermostat. Also, the system doesn't leak any water nor is there any sign of head gasket failure so this im hoping isn't the cause
 
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