E36 328i turbo?

heres a reply from gunni


Tell your friend to check this out
"I think it´s best I just toss this out here for all to see.

So your wondering about some more power for your 6cyl non M3 E36 and a turbo sounds nice, but also sounds impossible.

Here is a break up of how it can be done cheaply yet effectively.
Bear in mind this does require some welding and general fabrication.

First I´m always assuming the following for each scenario

"3 exhaust well open.
largest intercooler fitable
walbro fuel pump


Turbo manifolds are near impossible to find for the LHD E36. But If you buy a RHD ebay one and adjust the flange to angle the turbo a bit better away from the head then it´s as good as any other ebay thing. I´d recommend bracing the turbo when using one of these. Or making one yourself

so that out of the way rest is just the same as normal E36 turboing. The main problem being fuelling and ignition.

First vanos and non vanos ecu´s :

It would be possible to do the following scenarios

Rising rate fuel pressure regulator + STOCK MAF + Chip tuning (live mapping) + stock injectors. This should be able to yield in the order of 250hp or so.

fuel pressure adjusted to 5bar + STOCK MAF + Chip tuning (live mapping) + m3 injectors or something like 22lbs/min. This should then yield something like 300hp. The maf will be nearing maxed out.

Rising rate fuel pressure regulator + STOCK MAF + Chip tuning (live mapping) + m3 injectors or something like 20lbs/min or bigger. This should then yield 320-330hp or so, MAF will be maxed out but the rising rate will handle more fuel due to higher fuel pressure.

Larger MAF : i.e remove the element and fit into a "3.5 in pipe (same as S50 sized MAF) . MAF now flows a bit more. Here I´d recommend something no less then 42lb injectors and you should be able to see 400hp. This requires a bit of chip tuning to iron out well.

Standalone option :
Any power goal available as well as antilag, flatshifting, boost control and the list goes on and on. I personally would of course go this route as like to have alot of options open.

Now that we have covered that what has to be done to the engine itself?

Below 300hp I´d say nothing, but depends a bit on the torque produced.

350hp-ish, for a drift car lower compression due to higher torque will be required. I´m not sure that ARP studs are required here but I´d recommend them.

Anything below 500hp : MLS decompression plate and ARP bolts .

Now since the engine can handle what ever power you want what about the clutch?

For anything below 300hp I´d venture to say that the stock clutch will handle it, but for drifting I´d go 6puck straight out and never need another clutch for any power upgrade below 650whp.

Cooling system : fit an electric fan, it´s a given.

Wastegate : 38mm for anything below 450hp. 44mm above that, 60mm above 750hp+

Turbos :

To stay cheap here are some examples that are cheap

HX30 for sub 300hp levels I recon will be good.
HX35 for sub 450hp levels.
HX40 for sub 600hp levels.

If you shop around and know people with some turbos lying around and have fabrication skills this can be very easy actually."
 
i think where he mentioned manifolds he got lhd and rhd the wrong way round but no probs anymore info or advice just ask here or on fuckbook and i will find out for you
 
There´s one turbo´d 328 in Finlands drift scene and running strong, he´s had no prob with engine for las three years and guessing well over 500hp for that.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Uhucn2KXRo"]YouTube - Drifting promo 2010 Törmänen[/ame]

Some chat about car in finnish, if curious try with google translator or some like that.

E36 328 BMW
 
just removed a active autowerke kit from a e36 2.8i very very tight fit as far as the turbo goes on a rhd car! was a td-06 based kit mind. too close for my liking would have had to solid mount the engine to make it viable.

even with the active autoworke kit there was still a fair bit of custom work & that is a fairly comprehensive kit!

toipmount is the way to go imo after what ive just experianced just removing it lol
 
top mount is going to be the worst in a E36 . Just take a look at where you plan on putting the downpipe past the engine, steering column and side rails. No space whatsoever
 
Gunni is on here as Gstuning - he mapped my S13 the other day. Very nice man who knows lots of things. :nod:
 
the more I look into this the more of a pain its turning out to be, if I had any hair - it would be on the floor by now! lol
The devil in the back of my head is saying to brake Bolf old v8 and stick it into the e36 :)
 
I'd trawl some European forums, they do this all the time.
The V8 would be cool, Bons E34 540 is pretty quick.
 
The thing is- its too nice to brake...
62541_472684396803_505561803_6733291_6015100_n.jpg


But on second thoughts, its just a car. Now that the snow is here, there's more of a chance of me smashing it up... If that's the case then Chunk will be busy swapping engines :D
If not, then the turbo option is still on the cards I guess :)
 
does look farking evil though. sell it fund turbo goodness with the outcome, make smokesssss win win
 
Hi guys I have a question for you all

I want to turbo my 328i e36

Is it at all possible to bottom mount a hx 40 ?

I am looking for a sleeper and going for around 600whp

What will I need or should be looking at for this kind of power

Also I will be lowering compression to 8.5:1

What about the rods and crank I have been told these are forged

Any advice is greatly appreciated
 
In regards to the 328 not being strong enough is it worth it to swap the engine to the m50 or just swap the whole car for a 325?

is it possible just to swap the internals to the forged m50 ones while keeping the 328 displacement?

gnr buy my manifold next week and get it modifyed ;)
 
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