FC3S - Hayward Rotary x SJS x Team Green
FlikstRR
330D powered
Todays update (16/03/2009)
After staying up till 6am to write this blasted thing, I got woken up by more phone calls with s14 parts enquiries and decided to push on with 4 hours sleep!
I ran some chores, got a JDM rear plate made up to suit and picked up a few supplies to get ready to prep panels when the time comes.. I also picked up Dylan to help me with the days tasks.
..so back to the bodykit-age. With the front fenders on and the bonnet/light cover all loosely lined up to the point I’m happy but most wouldn’t. ( I LOVE the shonky, ziptied, battered look.. suits the sport and the lifestyle. So there
) we decided we couldn’t do much else without attacking the rear arches and over fender pairing..
First we offered up the overfenders to the car.. they didn’t seem super spot on.
I fear this is because a cabriolet was used as a mould.. and the arse is shorter.. This alsop meant the rear bumper didn’t fit over them properly either.. resulting in this:
so with time short.. cba to swap them out and adjustments were made:
To this:
I left a lot on there so we could trim down as we needed to make it reasonably level with the rear bumper joint and so forth. During this mucking about.. Dylan had been drawing lines on my car… then set about with the spinning wheely thing of win:
Right before I go any further…
You can see that rather than bashing up the inner skin like one method we had seen, or folding them up the body like had been suggested to us or just cutting them off, I used the inner skin bent out to act as a fiberglass protector.
As well as give me the clearance I needed it also gave me abase to work on in the future and a nice bit of protection for now. Unfortunately I don’t have pics of the next stage.. but we then hammerite’d all the metal and the joins/cuts etc… left that to dry, then used sealant along all the joins, but remember theres no actual cut into the cabin.. no cuts to seal, no smoke-into-cabin nightmares.. we just seal the outer skin to the inner skin to stop water creep/rust. Oh and a truck load of rivets to make the structure solid. Sounds ghetto, but I think it does the job awesomely on a budget.
Finally after more fiberglass trimming, shaping the metal tabs a bit, recovering it all etc we then decided it would be nice to get some fitment shots and test out the spacing needed etc:
Still room for more spacing we agreed, but it was damn close. Once again lack of light stopped play.
That is all.
After staying up till 6am to write this blasted thing, I got woken up by more phone calls with s14 parts enquiries and decided to push on with 4 hours sleep!
I ran some chores, got a JDM rear plate made up to suit and picked up a few supplies to get ready to prep panels when the time comes.. I also picked up Dylan to help me with the days tasks.
..so back to the bodykit-age. With the front fenders on and the bonnet/light cover all loosely lined up to the point I’m happy but most wouldn’t. ( I LOVE the shonky, ziptied, battered look.. suits the sport and the lifestyle. So there
) we decided we couldn’t do much else without attacking the rear arches and over fender pairing..First we offered up the overfenders to the car.. they didn’t seem super spot on.
I fear this is because a cabriolet was used as a mould.. and the arse is shorter.. This alsop meant the rear bumper didn’t fit over them properly either.. resulting in this:so with time short.. cba to swap them out and adjustments were made:
To this:
I left a lot on there so we could trim down as we needed to make it reasonably level with the rear bumper joint and so forth. During this mucking about.. Dylan had been drawing lines on my car… then set about with the spinning wheely thing of win:
Right before I go any further…
- I have no welder, nor access to one nor do I have and cash to buy one. So hush now.
- I have a hatred for fibre glass/resin/hardener and general fail.. so this is being done ghetto style. It should last and if not I will sort when I have time/money later on, but for now its sweet.
You can see that rather than bashing up the inner skin like one method we had seen, or folding them up the body like had been suggested to us or just cutting them off, I used the inner skin bent out to act as a fiberglass protector.
As well as give me the clearance I needed it also gave me abase to work on in the future and a nice bit of protection for now. Unfortunately I don’t have pics of the next stage.. but we then hammerite’d all the metal and the joins/cuts etc… left that to dry, then used sealant along all the joins, but remember theres no actual cut into the cabin.. no cuts to seal, no smoke-into-cabin nightmares.. we just seal the outer skin to the inner skin to stop water creep/rust. Oh and a truck load of rivets to make the structure solid. Sounds ghetto, but I think it does the job awesomely on a budget.
Finally after more fiberglass trimming, shaping the metal tabs a bit, recovering it all etc we then decided it would be nice to get some fitment shots and test out the spacing needed etc:
Still room for more spacing we agreed, but it was damn close. Once again lack of light stopped play.
That is all.
is that a pair of mazda cosmo's in that yard pic ?
FlikstRR
330D powered
I'm not exactly 100% clear on waht is uber-godlike-awesometown-fitment. I believe its arch in line wiht end of tyre with rim protruding ever so slightly... but could be wrong.
I'll remeasure spacing, but I believe its 35mm.. so et0. i think et-5 will = win.
E-GAY! stateside sellers, Im using the same spacers from yoshi, so same pcd, but the pitch is differnt so specific nuts for spacers and mazda studs if u get me.
long story short.. i skinted myself big style building yoshi and competing last year.. i then got made redundant right after season and bang on the resession crap. No money, no sponsors, moving house, working for self.. given up all hope.
couldnt sell yoshi, couldnt fix/service/look after/fuel yoshi so put it up for sale..
but i'm weak willed and got a cheapo skid car i had been infatuated with for ages. . Then realised how much i wanted to be involved and cracked an awesome deal with Rx motors and nickson motorsport for sponsorship. (first evarrrr bar sjs in 08) .. without them.. and a MASSIVE help from my barclays credit card... id be no where near wheere i am.
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phil i got a welder at my unit if you want to come over with sombody that can weld
also most kits that are 8 peice are made with that flare on the rear bumper where the overfenders go down but it maybe just replikit as ive had a few poor items from them before
also most kits that are 8 peice are made with that flare on the rear bumper where the overfenders go down but it maybe just replikit as ive had a few poor items from them before
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mcxxvi
i take pictures
wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
effort ftw
about the replikit stuff...it's true, they provide shit quality bits, truth is, they don't even produce the kits, they buy em cheap from somewhere and sell it off for another price, i know a guy who knows them, and his customers have always had trouble with replikit parts
effort ftw
about the replikit stuff...it's true, they provide shit quality bits, truth is, they don't even produce the kits, they buy em cheap from somewhere and sell it off for another price, i know a guy who knows them, and his customers have always had trouble with replikit parts
FlikstRR
330D powered
wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
effort ftw
Cheers dude. I know mim not alone and EVERYONE is putting a ton of effort into their builds.. but i swear mine has been at the worse time, in the most manic circumstance and totally bankrupting myself to do it.
Well Replikit have come on board to sponsor me I am in no way going to agree that they provide 'shit quality bits' I'll just say unfortunately some parts of the kit are not perfect fit.
But then my GENUINE D-Max kit from japan didnt fit perfectly on my S14.
