looking for some mx5 pics and modifications
- Thread starter smithy21
- Start date
Ste333
"The Shoulder"
See this thread for pics etc mate http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drifting-video-pictures/192228-show-me-your-mx5s.html
Thanks for the replys guys am looking at both the 1.6 and 1.8
I already thought of a set of coil overs a small steering wheel, in regards to the diff i thought it needed to be welded diff lowanslow?? didnt think you could use the LSD??
Love the dish wheels on the first pic not to sure on that spoiler though lol
I already thought of a set of coil overs a small steering wheel, in regards to the diff i thought it needed to be welded diff lowanslow?? didnt think you could use the LSD??
Love the dish wheels on the first pic not to sure on that spoiler though lol
Apologies man. The U.K. Cars come with open diffs. The 1.6 Jap import comes with a viscous which will lock and you can then slide but not as well as the torsion diff which the 1.8 import comes with. Unless of course previous owner has fitted a torsion to a 1.6. you can drift them just fine with a welded but if you can get a one with a torsion it saves the hassle of welding and skipping you get when parking if using as a daily as well lol. I have a torsion in mine will slide in the dry no bother.
In regards to the steering wheel mine came with a small crappy aftermarket thing in it and I found it a lot of work when sliding, so I bought a nardi (unsure of size)but it's a lot more easy to control.
Both cars are capable as ste says, the 1.6 engine is Ment to be a lot revvier than the 1.8. But the 1.8 comes with a lot more bracing both cabin and subframe and bigger brakes. Price varies really depending on miles and how clean the shell is. So you could find a 1.6 dearer than a 1.8 due to different factors etc etc just look for the standard rust issues and underneath.
Lol the spoiler was a giggle. Cost me like £30 to make and annoyed a lot of people.
In regards to the steering wheel mine came with a small crappy aftermarket thing in it and I found it a lot of work when sliding, so I bought a nardi (unsure of size)but it's a lot more easy to control.
Both cars are capable as ste says, the 1.6 engine is Ment to be a lot revvier than the 1.8. But the 1.8 comes with a lot more bracing both cabin and subframe and bigger brakes. Price varies really depending on miles and how clean the shell is. So you could find a 1.6 dearer than a 1.8 due to different factors etc etc just look for the standard rust issues and underneath.
Lol the spoiler was a giggle. Cost me like £30 to make and annoyed a lot of people.
bkray
New Member
I've drifted and drove both 1.6 and 1.8 NA's and NB's.
the 1.6's are better to turbo which if you want any high speed drifting, you'll probably need to do. The 1.8 was more powerful and the LSD's locked up good too. I was happy to drift on the LSD's but for easier skids, cant go wrong with a welded. you can pick up a spare open diff for like £30 tops. Just get it welded.
Most important thing is a clean shell. Engines are cheap and easy to swap over. Lots of room in the bay for the small engines. Rusty sills and arches will set you back a lot to get done for a proper job, talking around 600 a side for the inner and outer sills and arches sprayed.
The brakes are better on the 1.8 like lowanslow said but if you are any good at mechanics or fabrication, you really don't need to worry. parts are dirt cheap.
the 1.6's are better to turbo which if you want any high speed drifting, you'll probably need to do. The 1.8 was more powerful and the LSD's locked up good too. I was happy to drift on the LSD's but for easier skids, cant go wrong with a welded. you can pick up a spare open diff for like £30 tops. Just get it welded.
Most important thing is a clean shell. Engines are cheap and easy to swap over. Lots of room in the bay for the small engines. Rusty sills and arches will set you back a lot to get done for a proper job, talking around 600 a side for the inner and outer sills and arches sprayed.
The brakes are better on the 1.8 like lowanslow said but if you are any good at mechanics or fabrication, you really don't need to worry. parts are dirt cheap.
Thanks guys that info has helped out especially the diff side of things. I have read up on the rust and corrosion side of things so no worrys there and I am also a panel beater sprayer by trade so can do the general bodywork I dont want to get into having to cut out sills and arches etc but happy to give the girl a new lick of paint and I find it hard not to lol
Well I am popping over to see a guy tomorow he has a couple for sale a friend of a friend so hopefully can strike a deal
will let you know how I get on
Well I am popping over to see a guy tomorow he has a couple for sale a friend of a friend so hopefully can strike a deal
will let you know how I get on
yes I am liking the look of that one what kit and wheels are on it are they rotas? colournot to shaby either
prblmslvrs
Active Member
yes I am liking the look of that one what kit and wheels are on it are they rotas? colournot to shaby either
Watanabes.
1.6 and 1.8 skid just as well as the other from what I've heard. 1.6 is revvier and the 1.8 is more powerful. I only had experience of the 1.8.
All you need in an MX5 is: Roll Bar, Welded diff (or torsen, I personally didn't like the torsen in comparison though and bin VLSD's.), Coilovers, bucket seat and harness, rack spacers(when you need them) and a decent alignment. Anything else is optional - don't waste your time on internet mods sit in the drivers seat instead. Don't fit a hydro or even touch the handbrake, either go faster or work on your technique.
I personally had HSD's, 5mm rack spacers with rose jointed tie rod ends, Power steering rack that was de-powered (a lot nicer feel to the steering on transition.) Decat and polybushed A arms.
Outcome:
Stavros
Active Member
I've owned and drifted 6 now, all were daily drivers and HARD used drift cars.
IMO there's no real drift advantage of the 1.8 if you can actually drift properly, IMO if you need that extra tiny bit of grunt the 1.8 has, you're doing it wrong. (2 of mine were 1.8)
Stock VLSD most come with is wank. Torsen is pretty good, but I'd choose the welder every time. All but 1 of mine I welded up in the end, 1 had a Torsen.
People cry about cheap coilovers, but they're fine. Fuck, I left 2 of mine on stock suspension as it's fairly high and soft, but works good.
Stock steering wheel on most Mk1s is a fairly small Momo one, better than 99% of steering wheels, though on one I fitted a tiny little 300mm OMP one, which I actually prefered as it made the steering even sharper.
They've not got any lock really, and while washers are cheap n easy, when decent hubs are only £110, I've gone down that route on 2 of mine, 2 others had lock washers, the other 2 I left stock lock- Didn't stop me.
Fit a bucket seat, that's the 2nd most important thing behind a diff that works properly IMO.
Aside from that, fuck it, just drive it. Getting the skills will make you 100 times better driver than any modifications will.
Once you get used to how to use one properly, the most common occurrence for you will be people in 400bhp+ 'drift cars' holding you up by drifting too slow for your 100bhp car.
This car was 400quid and 100% stock 1.6 barring I welded the diff and chucked in a cheapo drivers bucket seat. Was voted driver of the day in it.
This one I had was a 1.6 with a welder, cheapo coilovers, bucket, and I think lock washers too. No problem 3rd in the dry on a big track (Pembrey GP)
IMO there's no real drift advantage of the 1.8 if you can actually drift properly, IMO if you need that extra tiny bit of grunt the 1.8 has, you're doing it wrong. (2 of mine were 1.8)
Stock VLSD most come with is wank. Torsen is pretty good, but I'd choose the welder every time. All but 1 of mine I welded up in the end, 1 had a Torsen.
People cry about cheap coilovers, but they're fine. Fuck, I left 2 of mine on stock suspension as it's fairly high and soft, but works good.
Stock steering wheel on most Mk1s is a fairly small Momo one, better than 99% of steering wheels, though on one I fitted a tiny little 300mm OMP one, which I actually prefered as it made the steering even sharper.
They've not got any lock really, and while washers are cheap n easy, when decent hubs are only £110, I've gone down that route on 2 of mine, 2 others had lock washers, the other 2 I left stock lock- Didn't stop me.
Fit a bucket seat, that's the 2nd most important thing behind a diff that works properly IMO.
Aside from that, fuck it, just drive it. Getting the skills will make you 100 times better driver than any modifications will.
Once you get used to how to use one properly, the most common occurrence for you will be people in 400bhp+ 'drift cars' holding you up by drifting too slow for your 100bhp car.
This car was 400quid and 100% stock 1.6 barring I welded the diff and chucked in a cheapo drivers bucket seat. Was voted driver of the day in it.
This one I had was a 1.6 with a welder, cheapo coilovers, bucket, and I think lock washers too. No problem 3rd in the dry on a big track (Pembrey GP)
Thanks for the info and was good watching the video really looking forward to getting out there and doing itWatanabes.
1.6 and 1.8 skid just as well as the other from what I've heard. 1.6 is revvier and the 1.8 is more powerful. I only had experience of the 1.8.
All you need in an MX5 is: Roll Bar, Welded diff (or torsen, I personally didn't like the torsen in comparison though and bin VLSD's.), Coilovers, bucket seat and harness, rack spacers(when you need them) and a decent alignment. Anything else is optional - don't waste your time on internet mods sit in the drivers seat instead. Don't fit a hydro or even touch the handbrake, either go faster or work on your technique.
I personally had HSD's, 5mm rack spacers with rose jointed tie rod ends, Power steering rack that was de-powered (a lot nicer feel to the steering on transition.) Decat and polybushed A arms.
Outcome:
what is a stock vlsd? Thanks for all the info its nice to see people replys and all have something to share which is well helpful when starting out and the moment im at the stage of spending ages online looking at wheels kits what people have fitted whats best so on and so forth end up with a headache lol.
Well its a bonus that the mx i bought comes with a auto diff on it and the guy also chucked in a welded one to so just a matter of changing it over is that alot of work?
In regards to the hubs what company or place to you recommend for them?
Have been looking at the bucket seats they arent cheap and from what i can see very tight fit
LOL on the 400bhp cars holding you up
Well its a bonus that the mx i bought comes with a auto diff on it and the guy also chucked in a welded one to so just a matter of changing it over is that alot of work?
In regards to the hubs what company or place to you recommend for them?
Have been looking at the bucket seats they arent cheap and from what i can see very tight fit
LOL on the 400bhp cars holding you up
