MX5 Drift Set up!

mazdachris said:
Yeah never ever lift. Even if you feel like the car is starting to understeer, just hold you line and keep your foot in. It'll sort itself out.
Just go maximum attack the whole time. It takes a really aggressive approach and when you start out you'll feel like you're going to spin the whole time, but if you're not aggressive enough you'll feel like it has too much grip at the rear and you'll just understeer.
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Can agree with this having drifted Chris's MX5 on a DWYB day many moons ago, you really have to throttle it and give it some stick with clutch kicks to get it to kick out, however once it's out (you've got HSD's, hope you've got good bushes!) It'll stay there

But you will have to work hard to transision and mantain the angles, I believe i did spin out a few times trying to do that.
 
i keep hearing people saying 'run mad angle camber on the rear for easy skidz'

Do you guys really think it skids better? I got as close to 0deg on the back and it's hard work. But i've been told that's where it should be for easy skidding...

And someone who races MX5's says he runs -2.5 on the rear for GRIP!!!

So what should i do for next alignment?

Cheers

PS: Oh for the OP, i got some 20 year old tyres, they skidded with just the loud pedal... t'was great whilst it lasted. (so try to find shitty, old, perished tyres)
 
Run upto 2 degrees, but less than 1.

YouTube - MX-5 Drifting at BDC Llandow

That's me at Llandow, making a fool of myself on 45psi for the first time, in a mostly stock car, except for the lowering springs. *If you wind onto 1min in*, you'll see just how fast the car is capable of changing direction, after a couple of runs I managed to kind of get it. It really really makes you work for it.
But - you get a good idea of how pinned to have to keep it! After the initial turn in, the throttle is welded to the end of the run! :D
 
Forget the camber and lock nonsense. Just slap some cheap rubber on the rear, up the psi and kill the clutch.
I'd say that if you have damping adjustment, then just set the rear up to be softer than the front. I found that made a difference.
Handbrake....Forget it. Useless.
You have to chuck them about a little bit. But they respond pretty well. Becuase they are so small.
 
wouldn't it be a LOT more beneficial to make it skid easier through chassis dynamics so you don't have to kill the clutch...

what's a clutch £300 per swap? and didn't Cpt Muppet once have a clutch for 3000miles apparently through clutch kicking a 5.
So an alignment at approx £50-100 for a one off is a bit more economical no?

PS: Also weight loss in the rear? thats gotta help. Lose the spare and jack for tyre weld. Strip it out. Lightweight exhaust (just swapped my back box for a 2.5" straight pipe. Fucking LOUD, like it gives me a headache if driving for more than 30mins with window down. That saved 8-9kg on it's own)
 
seriously tho , just get some tyres , put 45 psi in them and skid... my mk2 had coilovers and a back box on it. The alighment was what ever it went to when it was lowered 100mm. Just go in faster than an s13 and either grip the round about and increase speed till the rear brakes traction and FLOOOOOR it or give it a lil clutch kick and steer away. Dont go for massive angle or else you'll slow down to much

most of the points in this thread only make such a lil difference. Mine had a box full of parts in the rear ( about 20-25kgs ) and it still did big wide oval tracks. I struggled more on the smaller slower ovals
 
Yeah don't overthink stuff, just get out and drive the thing. Unless there's something really wrong with the alignment etc, it'll be reasonably well balanced and happy to go sideways.

Just go careful on the clutch if it's a standard 1.6 mk1, otherwise just give it hell and have fun.
 
Well, i'm going against what both you guys say. :D

I'm driving it a lot, AND trying to make it skid better. Alignment, more lock, less weight, more power. Win win
 
Budget Drifter said:
i keep hearing people saying 'run mad angle camber on the rear for easy skidz'
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Yeah, that makes it easy in GT4 on the PS2. In real life I have a small amount of camber at the back to give maximum contact patch when drifting, because once you've got the back out you need to be able to control it.

Skylineadam said:
Forget the camber and lock nonsense. Just slap some cheap rubber on the rear, up the psi and kill the clutch.
I'd say that if you have damping adjustment, then just set the rear up to be softer than the front. I found that made a difference.
Handbrake....Forget it. Useless.
You have to chuck them about a little bit. But they respond pretty well. Becuase they are so small.
Click to expand...

Yes, up to a point hard tyres and high pressures will get the job done you can have a lot of fun for very little effort but...

Budget Drifter said:
wouldn't it be a LOT more beneficial to make it skid easier through chassis dynamics so you don't have to kill the clutch...

what's a clutch £300 per swap? and didn't Cpt Muppet once have a clutch for 3000miles apparently through clutch kicking a 5.
So an alignment at approx £50-100 for a one off is a bit more economical no?
Click to expand...

...get it aligned right and it'll be easier to control.

Back when I was NA and using a 1.6 clutch I was getting 3000 miles out of them. But that's when I was competing where you don't get a choice of line to suit your car.

Practice days should be fun, so pick a track, or line, or series of corners that suit your car. The nice bits at Barkston are all top end of 2nd gear 90 degree corners - just lift, flick and floor it. Eurodrift's Fucking Chepstow track either needed 9,000 rpm in 1st or massive clutch abuse in 2nd. Hateful place, no fun at all.

Changing a clutch is 7 hours of grief for me, so I avoid it if I can. I think my turbo has paid for its self just in a reduction in clutch abuse :D
 
Hi all,
I'm running an mk1 mx5 1.6 with the only mod the 6speed gearbox and 3.6 torsen (not recommend, too long for NA engines) 60psi on rear tyres 15inch wheels.

I'm drifting on Norfolk with clutch kick or braking. It does fine, but next plans are alignment and suspension.

More specific, alignment I need to reduce toe in still minus but close to zero. Ride height front lower and back stock. Finally brakes high friction front normal on the back.

As an extra advice I would recommend to play with those 2 techniques, try to play with the timing of those. Generally clutch kick might be tiring because sometimes you need to keep constantly the revs high so, repetitive clutch kicks are a must. For braking drifts you need a hard brake on corner entry, assuming you need to have extra speed, then floor it...

Hope that helps...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 
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