My PS13 Project....TE37s fitted !
- Thread starter Lucky_13
- Start date
Lucky_13
Active Member
Got the geomaster stuff fitted last night, it ended up sitting too low due to the dropped spindles and my coils being the older ones without the lower adjustment.
A mate had a set of eBay specials lieing around that are for another project so I stole his fronts to set mine up and check clearances etc. (I will be buying CS2s soon)
Ended up having a nightmare with problem after problem, the main one that stopped me getting it rolling was a bent tie rod that wouldn't adjust to allow me to toe the wheels straight. That was with the LCAS on there shortest setting (because I need overfenders.) So u tried extending the LCAs 20mm each to create toe out which left me with enough adjustment in the track rod but gives around -7 degrees of camber, which isn't what I want, and pushes the wheel out into the arch. So that isn't going to work.
For the time being I've got another track rod coming which means I can run the LCAs at there shortest setting and get the correct toe setting. This obviously means I won't be able to get the maximum lock out of the geomasters until I get overfenders sorted, they will allow me to take some of the camber out that extending the LCAs creates. 9.5j front wheel and 235 tyres probably aren't helping the situating either.
Anyone any tips on getting the best clearance on s13s? And has anyone got measurementsome of there lca/tension rod settings. I know I will need to tub the front arches now too, that's also a job that's been added to the list.
Here's a snap of how it sat on the old coils. Didn't get anymore picture as it was late and I was getting annoyed. I'll get some more snaps when I fit the new track rod.
All in all I love the DW kit, really nice quality stuff, the issues I've had are from fitting it to the wrong coilovers, stock front wings (and wide wheels) and bent track rods lol.
A mate had a set of eBay specials lieing around that are for another project so I stole his fronts to set mine up and check clearances etc. (I will be buying CS2s soon)
Ended up having a nightmare with problem after problem, the main one that stopped me getting it rolling was a bent tie rod that wouldn't adjust to allow me to toe the wheels straight. That was with the LCAS on there shortest setting (because I need overfenders.) So u tried extending the LCAs 20mm each to create toe out which left me with enough adjustment in the track rod but gives around -7 degrees of camber, which isn't what I want, and pushes the wheel out into the arch. So that isn't going to work.
For the time being I've got another track rod coming which means I can run the LCAs at there shortest setting and get the correct toe setting. This obviously means I won't be able to get the maximum lock out of the geomasters until I get overfenders sorted, they will allow me to take some of the camber out that extending the LCAs creates. 9.5j front wheel and 235 tyres probably aren't helping the situating either.
Anyone any tips on getting the best clearance on s13s? And has anyone got measurementsome of there lca/tension rod settings. I know I will need to tub the front arches now too, that's also a job that's been added to the list.
Here's a snap of how it sat on the old coils. Didn't get anymore picture as it was late and I was getting annoyed. I'll get some more snaps when I fit the new track rod.
All in all I love the DW kit, really nice quality stuff, the issues I've had are from fitting it to the wrong coilovers, stock front wings (and wide wheels) and bent track rods lol.
BenRice
Well-Known Member
You might want to move the brake line mount on the inside of the wheel well over so it's further forward and held on by one bolt, otherwise the inside lip of the wheel will grind on it when the wheel points out.
Below the brake line mount, hammer the lip where the chassis rail meets the wheel well too (another point of grinding).
Above the wheel, hammer the seam that is pointing down to point sideways (if it hasn't already been done) or rivet in a plate, otherwise it will cut into your tyre
Try reroute any wires in the wheel well to inside the engine bay as with a big tyre and more lock you'll chew them fast. Once done, hammer the rear side of the wheel well where those wires come out (triangle looking hole)
BFH the front portion of the factory wheel well for now, - you'll be surprised how much clearance you can get with a good sledge hammer
Below the brake line mount, hammer the lip where the chassis rail meets the wheel well too (another point of grinding).
Above the wheel, hammer the seam that is pointing down to point sideways (if it hasn't already been done) or rivet in a plate, otherwise it will cut into your tyre
Try reroute any wires in the wheel well to inside the engine bay as with a big tyre and more lock you'll chew them fast. Once done, hammer the rear side of the wheel well where those wires come out (triangle looking hole)
BFH the front portion of the factory wheel well for now, - you'll be surprised how much clearance you can get with a good sledge hammer
Lucky_13
Active Member
Thanks mate, I hammered the front tub a little to help clearance and the rear seam, will do the top seam tomorrow. ill look into adjusting the wiring and moving the brake line forward also thanks.
Ended up adjusting the lcas to around 20mm longer than their shortest settings (probably around s14 length now.) It will track up properly now when I get the new track rod. I'll do that on a level floor so I can set the camber first.
Got a few quick pics tonight, overall im happy with how it is for now, once i have wider wing ill dial out abit of camber and bring the front down abit.
Also got a couple of pictures of under the car.
Ended up adjusting the lcas to around 20mm longer than their shortest settings (probably around s14 length now.) It will track up properly now when I get the new track rod. I'll do that on a level floor so I can set the camber first.
Got a few quick pics tonight, overall im happy with how it is for now, once i have wider wing ill dial out abit of camber and bring the front down abit.
Also got a couple of pictures of under the car.
Lucky_13
Active Member
Got this off the ramp the other day, all geomaster stuff is on now and I fitted the 3inch downpipe and decat. Quick drive around the block and it all feels good. Will do the caster and tracking properly one night this week.
For Christmas I got a pair of work t7rs (et22 18x9.5) and I bought myself a power fc and commander off the forum (cheers rob.) Need to decide who I want to map it and get it booked in.
I'm on call this NYE so I plan on taking this for a drive on the streets at night when it's quiet to check no issues arise with the new suspension setup before booking a drift day.
For Christmas I got a pair of work t7rs (et22 18x9.5) and I bought myself a power fc and commander off the forum (cheers rob.) Need to decide who I want to map it and get it booked in.
I'm on call this NYE so I plan on taking this for a drive on the streets at night when it's quiet to check no issues arise with the new suspension setup before booking a drift day.
Last edited:
Lucky_13
Active Member
Have been mad busy with work but ive been slowly working at getting this half worthy of being driven and on the road. Its still along way away from where i want it but with the nice weather coming i want to get some seat time in.
Recently Ive been working through niggly jobs like trying to tidy up the engine bay by re-doing the vac pipes, new intake hose, removing a few brackets from the bay, deleting the carbon canister, ive fitted a AFR gauge to keep and eye on how the engines running, fitting brick headlights, new wings and spoiler. Ive also got loads of parts to fit including "bride" seats, DND carbon wheel, and a battery relocation kit to fit in the boot so i can start on the tubs. I will get some pictures of the engine bay progress this weekend. I also had a bad missfire which lead to me changing the knock sensor and inlet manifold gaskets (crap job.)
Anyway heres a few rendom pictures of the recent bits ive done. Ill try and keep track of the build better in the next few weeks were ill be finishing the last few bits ready for summer.
Recently Ive been working through niggly jobs like trying to tidy up the engine bay by re-doing the vac pipes, new intake hose, removing a few brackets from the bay, deleting the carbon canister, ive fitted a AFR gauge to keep and eye on how the engines running, fitting brick headlights, new wings and spoiler. Ive also got loads of parts to fit including "bride" seats, DND carbon wheel, and a battery relocation kit to fit in the boot so i can start on the tubs. I will get some pictures of the engine bay progress this weekend. I also had a bad missfire which lead to me changing the knock sensor and inlet manifold gaskets (crap job.)
Anyway heres a few rendom pictures of the recent bits ive done. Ill try and keep track of the build better in the next few weeks were ill be finishing the last few bits ready for summer.
Lucky_13
Active Member
Gunny - Looking good mate
Ianlea73 - the wheels need a 10-15mm spacer to clear the calipers just because of the shape on the spokes.
G535 - Ill get lock pics when its in use lol
Bu11et - Im still using the r180 and still on the look out for s r200 none abs 3x2 diff.
Ceffy - Agreed best mod ive done IMO
Ianlea73 - the wheels need a 10-15mm spacer to clear the calipers just because of the shape on the spokes.
G535 - Ill get lock pics when its in use lol
Bu11et - Im still using the r180 and still on the look out for s r200 none abs 3x2 diff.
Ceffy - Agreed best mod ive done IMO