Techno Pro Spirits 4AGE Engine Build. Progress!
- Thread starter Miguel-Newera
- Start date
Miguel-Newera
Member
BenR said:
Cheers
Maybe mine will make more power, bit it will be interesting to compare some Dyno graphs when both cars are completed and run in. Drivability's a real important factor too...
In all, including a new exhaust manifold (The old Cusco one wasn't a very good design for top end power, apparently), new TRD clutch, new Freedom ECU, the throttle bodies (used of course), as well as wiring the engine up (As it was on carbs, all of the un-necessary wiring had been removed - although luckily I'd kept the wiring...), fitting a Rev Speed meter with an "ultra" sender attached to the gearbox, regassing the A/C, as well as removal of 2 engines and fitting of one...
So in all, mine's costing maybe £3,500 - £4,000 for the engine rebuild itself, which isn't too bad considering the quality of the work being done and the components being fitted, etc. Unfortunately though, Techno Pro Spirits aren't in a position to sponsor me
...'cos I'm a nobody
They don't sponsor - www.tp-spirits.com aren't in it for the money. I think they make a living from it, but just like doing what they do - so they keep at it. Few people tune 4AGE engines, or other N/A engines much these days - except for maybe Hondas, which they have fairly tough competition from domestically with the likes of Honda Twin Cam, Spoon, Mugen, etc. - even those tuners aren't making much, from the news we hear. Tuning's definitely on a decline in Japan, which is sad, really.
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Miguel-Newera
Member
BenR said:
You don't mean using 2 master cylinders, do you? Man, that seems like hard work, as there's no kits like that available for AE86's, than I know of... Would take some serious adaption work, etc.
One of those electronic valves sounds like what I need... Do Demon Thieves sell those too? I paid them some £250 for a poxy cheap quality hydraulic handbrake lever and a Girling brake masker cylinder and a few cables... Wonder what they'll rip me off for on an electronic valve...
Maybe a Rally magazine's the place to look? Any further ideas, please?
Mad Cas
wrecked
I'm still looking for electronic line lock kit, have seen them but they are rare. I'm told that drag racing guys use them for ease of burnouts etc. Don't think Demon Thieves sell them, only crappy bias levers etc. If you look at the master cylinder there should be two pipes coming from it, seperating the brake circuits just means having the front calipers off one pipe (closest to Bulkhead) and the rear calipers/cylinders off the second (furthest from bulkhead) pipe, rather than the stock dual-circuit setup that has NSF/OSR on one circuit and OSF/NSR on the other. This ia a safety feature, so that if one circuit fails (I.E. springs a leak/loses pressure) the car still has 1 front and 1 rear brake actuating, personally I dont see this as any safer than having only front or only rear, as the car would likely pull pretty bad with 1 front and one rear working, even if they are on opposite sides of the car from each other. Its a pretty simple mod to do, I did it when I removed my ABS, all you need is some brake line, fittings, a brake pipe flaring tool and some more fliud to put back in when your done. If your feeling really fancy you could get braided lines made for it.
IIRC the 86 has a splitting block/proportioning valve mounted on the bulkhead, but its not difficult to trace where the lines go to, sometimes there is only one that runs to the back and splits just above the rear axle.
This may also be useful, even if thier wiring using the horn circuit is a bit low-rent
http://www.motorsportsdigest.com/tech/install2.htm
Hope this helps
IIRC the 86 has a splitting block/proportioning valve mounted on the bulkhead, but its not difficult to trace where the lines go to, sometimes there is only one that runs to the back and splits just above the rear axle.
This may also be useful, even if thier wiring using the horn circuit is a bit low-rent
http://www.motorsportsdigest.com/tech/install2.htm
Hope this helps
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Mad Cas
wrecked
Just split the master cylinder system to front/rear rather than horizontally across the car like cas said.
Alternatively, you could get some decent trumpet length under there if you junk the brake servo and run an incar pedal box with a bais valve next to you, or a balance beam and 2 master cylinders.
Pricing in Japan cans ometimes get supid, their components arent top quality but cost the eath, yet labour isnt expensive at all. Something to do with the culture, we've dealt with 'Japan' for years having once run Toyota in Hong Kong. Lovely people, but my god its strange.
I'd go as far to say that i'd never use a japanese component (aftermarket), only the big manufactureres get it right in the std parts.
Your build cost really isnt that bad at all, especially for what you are getting.
Once this build is finished (main aim is the short motor build for now) i will be moving onto the AE92 small port head and developing a throttle body system for it which will be far superior to anything else on the market.
But your car does look superb, has all the kit needed on it!
Alternatively, you could get some decent trumpet length under there if you junk the brake servo and run an incar pedal box with a bais valve next to you, or a balance beam and 2 master cylinders.
Pricing in Japan cans ometimes get supid, their components arent top quality but cost the eath, yet labour isnt expensive at all. Something to do with the culture, we've dealt with 'Japan' for years having once run Toyota in Hong Kong. Lovely people, but my god its strange.
I'd go as far to say that i'd never use a japanese component (aftermarket), only the big manufactureres get it right in the std parts.
Your build cost really isnt that bad at all, especially for what you are getting.
Once this build is finished (main aim is the short motor build for now) i will be moving onto the AE92 small port head and developing a throttle body system for it which will be far superior to anything else on the market.
But your car does look superb, has all the kit needed on it!
Irishtwincam
Tá me sasta :D
Wish I had pics, but we supply in car bias adjustable pedal boxes for the AE86. Youve gotta cut 2 holes beside the master servo hole in the bulkhead.
AnimalityRacing
Member
brilliant article, i wish i lived i japan
Nick The Doctor
Member
Nice one Miguel
what a awesome project You have going on there , as Lex said keep us all updated
I wanna Ae86 Now
what a awesome project You have going on there , as Lex said keep us all updated
I wanna Ae86 Now
Miguel-Newera
Member
Irishtwincam said:
Sounds good - if you could get some pics, I could be very interested in this.. !!
Miguel-Newera
Member
theholty said:Nice, really nice, just dont paint it orange!
Black/silver is one of the nicest colours!
Looks lovely as it is I think
If you do decide on aero though, runing free or j-blood do the nicest Levin kits in my opinion
I like Jubiride's stuff, but I'll have to look into it a bit more... I do like the subdued 2 tone grey - but I already have a subdued black & carbon fibre RX-7... so I feel I should go a little more wild with this one... Otherwise I'll have 2 dark and evil cars
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Miguel-Newera
Member
BenR said:
Cheers again for the compliments. Good to see this baby's as interesting to you guys, as it has been for me... Nice to know I'm not alone, I guess
For interest:
The throttle bodies developed by TODA Racing for the AE86 are pretty good... Based on Honda units apparently. They give excellent top end power, but the design fault is they dribble fuel out of the barrels at idle, so not good for street use...and not likely to pass a Japanese Shaken, easily - as well as being a slight fire hazzard on a road car... for RACE use only, unfortunately - or I'd have had a set..perhaps if the fuel rail wasn't placed where it is and the standard injector position employed, this would work. Dunno... I'm no expert!
Techno Pro Spirits use this kit on their AE86 demo car, which currently makes 237 PS... Not bad for a little 1.6 N/A.
Interesting info on the brake bias. I'm not sure how it works, as I imagine if the system was split front and rear, pressurising the rear brakes without the brake pedal depressed (With a hydraulic handbrake, in other words) would send brake fluid back into the fuild reservoir, wouldn't it? ....That is, without an electronic valve...?
Or have I got it completely wrong?
....It's been a while since I rebuilt a braking system..!
Miguel-Newera
Member
Use Google's Language tools to view these sites:
WWW.JUBIRIDE.COM is an interesting AE86 tuner... Sadly way too far away from Tokyo for me to consider as a tuner for my car, check out their bodykits below...
www.tp-spirit.co.jp was my choice in the end, their reputation preceed's them though... So far I have to admit, I have been encouraged by their knowledge and attention to detail...
Jubiride's bodykits:
WWW.JUBIRIDE.COM is an interesting AE86 tuner... Sadly way too far away from Tokyo for me to consider as a tuner for my car, check out their bodykits below...
www.tp-spirit.co.jp was my choice in the end, their reputation preceed's them though... So far I have to admit, I have been encouraged by their knowledge and attention to detail...
Jubiride's bodykits:
Attachments
i have fitted hydraulic handbrake to my 86 there i one brake line which runs from the front to back of the car. the line needs to run from the front into the input of the girling master cylinder - this was the rear union on my cylinder and then a separate line from the output of the girling (the other union to the rear junction on the back axle
if this helps
try to use the copper hard piping not flexible hoses as you will lose power in hose flex
it only took me about 2hrs to fit and hard piping was availible from my local motor factors for about £10
i know it seems so simple but thats what i thought when i first found out how to plumb it in but i can assure you it is very powerful and does not lock the lock the front wheels at all (but it does lock the brake pedal)
hope this helps A bit
if this helps
try to use the copper hard piping not flexible hoses as you will lose power in hose flex
it only took me about 2hrs to fit and hard piping was availible from my local motor factors for about £10
i know it seems so simple but thats what i thought when i first found out how to plumb it in but i can assure you it is very powerful and does not lock the lock the front wheels at all (but it does lock the brake pedal)
hope this helps A bit