Adjustable Lower Arms

There's a certain amount of compliance built into the ARB's where it meets the lower arms through the rubber bushes and droplinks so the small differences in arm lengths and caster adjustments at the front will not affect them enough to have to modify them. The rear end will not have any issues as all the adjustment is at the outer end and so the relative position of the ARB pickup on the wishbone remains constant. Its the front that'll vary slightly but it won't be enough to affect the ARBs function and certainly not enough to warrant modifying ARB mounts.
 
sideways.taff said:
There's a certain amount of compliance built into the ARB's where it meets the lower arms through the rubber bushes and droplinks so the small differences in arm lengths and caster adjustments at the front will not affect them enough to have to modify them. The rear end will not have any issues as all the adjustment is at the outer end and so the relative position of the ARB pickup on the wishbone remains constant. Its the front that'll vary slightly but it won't be enough to affect the ARBs function and certainly not enough to warrant modifying ARB mounts.
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The topic regarding the "rear" ARB was clear to me like you explained but thanks anyway.

So the next question of me would be why i should buy these arms if i can have the same effect from lets say 30mm wide thread wheels spacers? I do already have PU-Bushings all round installed... and i dont think these arms are stronger then the OEM ones.

Or is it for guys which wann to extend the width of their track to the maximum realizing the 20mm of these arms and another 30mm by wheel spacers ?
 
BH1.

Regarding the front lower arms. Lets say they gets the front track wider by 20mm. If thats the case it would be wise to use that 20mm to REMOVE same amount of spacers at the front. And before you all :smash: me down. Think of how the wheel is sitting at the front hub. Everytime you add a spacer you put the wheel further from its offset where its designed to work. Wider track is good, but not if you go to far with spacers. Its hard to explain for me being danish. But if you imagine that your front wheels WITHOUT spacers, would pivot around its own center ( this being the mounting face of the hub now. ) They would turn from lock to lock without travelling much FORWARD or Backwards. But if you add insane amount of spacers the front wheels will actually turn from lock to lock in an arch. ( did that make any sense to somebody, people who knows wheel setup will know what im trying to explain. Maybe they can put it in a better text.?):)
 
I have problems to fit the rear lower arms to my S13 knuckles, did someone else experienced this problem ?

The included cone won't fit the S13 knuckles, i know that there is a S13 and a S14 conde included, i tried with both, both won't fit my knuckles ?

So any suggestions from you guys ?


Btw. I use rear A31 Cefiro knuckles but they are the same as the ones from the S13.
 
When you say it won't fit, do you mean ithe cone section will not slide up into the hub section far enough to get the split pin through? What's your full name and I'll check what you were sent, as we changed the design of the spindle very slightly after our first batch. :)
 
Phil said:
When you say it won't fit, do you mean ithe cone section will not slide up into the hub section far enough to get the split pin through? What's your full name and I'll check what you were sent, as we changed the design of the spindle very slightly after our first batch. :)
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Yeah thats exactly the problem, i am not able to fit the split pin as the cone section won't go through the knuckle as much as needed.

You got a private message.
 
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