FC3S - Hayward Rotary x SJS x Team Green
FlikstRR
330D powered
which falken? as in the one in my link? you use that exact one?
Clearly I have more lock then.
Stavros
Active Member
FlikstRR
330D powered
lol so true atm.And cant use it
both due to it rubbing and my weak skills. But id rather have it there so i can learn to use it... than constantly change my cars setup.
Cheers for the recommendation Andy.. Will see if i can get a descount with BDC etc.. and get hte falkens.. else I think ill go the maragoni route..
Mattolodis
Active Member
Car looks shweeet matey and sounds the nuts in the vid.
More graphics me thinks
yoshi come back
More graphics me thinks
yoshi come back
remember this isnt a pootle about town daily..
Jord
drifted.com
Depends which Falkens you mean. The FK452's are the ones I've got on the front of the PS13 [if Paul Smith ever gives them back as he's been using them on the front of the Japspeed S14! 
] and I've just put a pair on the front of the missus' 350Z. They ARE frikkin awesome tyres for the money. And like Andy says, available in the funky 35 profile. I think I'm gonna change for this profile so I can go lower and avoid the rubbing issues I got last season.
The FK512 aren't as good but stick to 452's and you'll be fine!
] and I've just put a pair on the front of the missus' 350Z. They ARE frikkin awesome tyres for the money. And like Andy says, available in the funky 35 profile. I think I'm gonna change for this profile so I can go lower and avoid the rubbing issues I got last season.The FK512 aren't as good but stick to 452's and you'll be fine!
Sam H
Troll Dispatch
Phil, when mine goes over centre and starts hitting the inner arches etc, it causes me to spin.
My resolution wasn't to bash the crap out of the car, it was to catch it before it went that far.
Took me a few practice days, but now that's not the cause of any of my spins.
Your car is good man, you just need a little more seat time with your epic setup
My resolution wasn't to bash the crap out of the car, it was to catch it before it went that far.
Took me a few practice days, but now that's not the cause of any of my spins.
Your car is good man, you just need a little more seat time with your epic setup
FlikstRR
330D powered
sam my car doesnt go over center yet... lol did you read my updates?
FC steering racks are located differently than S-bodies. Mine hits the inner arch as im not allowing roof for the improved lock.
I appreciate your input and as I have stated I am looking for seat time too. But theres no point ingoring an issue that could cost me championship points, a battle or in worst case.. cause damage to my car and others if i spin out in front of someone.
ignoring a problem doesnt make it go away.
FC steering racks are located differently than S-bodies. Mine hits the inner arch as im not allowing roof for the improved lock.
I appreciate your input and as I have stated I am looking for seat time too. But theres no point ingoring an issue that could cost me championship points, a battle or in worst case.. cause damage to my car and others if i spin out in front of someone.
ignoring a problem doesnt make it go away.
MaverickJoel
Member
Phil before you buy any tyres let me see what i can do on those falkens because i think i could get you a steal
Joel
Joel
instead of continually cutting the shit out of the inner fenders.
Somehow extend the lower control arm!
This will do a couple of things:
-increase static camber
-will increase wheel track, at the same time moving the wheel away from the inner guards for clearance, will also allow more clearance to the LCA.
With the S4 LCA (S5 arms, the ball joint is integral to the whole assembly), the lower ball joint bolts onto the lower control arm. A good trick (i've done this to my car) is to instead of bolting the pivot below the arm, bolt it on top, to correct the lca angle. My next step, was to create a plate to bolt between the lower control arm and the pivot, to move it outwards an inch.
Unfortionately, there is not enough meat in the lca to redrill the mounting holes further out.
OR
drill the front lower control arm to move the mount outward and higher. but you'll need to find another way to correct castor. you can do this by using an offcentre castor bush (have a picture on rx7club in the castor thread), or by castor/camber plates.
Somehow extend the lower control arm!
This will do a couple of things:
-increase static camber
-will increase wheel track, at the same time moving the wheel away from the inner guards for clearance, will also allow more clearance to the LCA.
With the S4 LCA (S5 arms, the ball joint is integral to the whole assembly), the lower ball joint bolts onto the lower control arm. A good trick (i've done this to my car) is to instead of bolting the pivot below the arm, bolt it on top, to correct the lca angle. My next step, was to create a plate to bolt between the lower control arm and the pivot, to move it outwards an inch.
Unfortionately, there is not enough meat in the lca to redrill the mounting holes further out.
OR
drill the front lower control arm to move the mount outward and higher. but you'll need to find another way to correct castor. you can do this by using an offcentre castor bush (have a picture on rx7club in the castor thread), or by castor/camber plates.
FlikstRR
330D powered
soome good info man. welcome to Driftworks.
Ive asked on rx7club about LCA variations/mods/ aftermarket adjustable ones, but havent checked responses yet.
I think I'm still gonna either tub the arches properly or heat and bend them slightly anyway. But if i can sort the LCA's as well as sort a lower profile, but still grippy front tyre that will alllll help.
Ive asked on rx7club about LCA variations/mods/ aftermarket adjustable ones, but havent checked responses yet.
I think I'm still gonna either tub the arches properly or heat and bend them slightly anyway. But if i can sort the LCA's as well as sort a lower profile, but still grippy front tyre that will alllll help.