Mercedes C230 Kompressor

Stav can you try one thing for me please mate, i've been told that if you remove the abs and esp fuse it completely turns off the traction control, can you try it for me and let me know please ;), i've trawled through a few forums and its exactly like you've said some people saying yeah i've ''heard'' you pull a fuse to turn it off and others saying yeah does work but it isn't recomended as its dangerous etc :euge:, no one seems to know anything its all yeah, maybes and the internet says so even with the tuning side of things as well :smash:. im back on the clk idea but i do not want a car with traction control that you cant turn off.
 
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How is the 'traction control' cutting power ? Additional throttle body or ecu - ignition cut ?

Surely you just have to find a way either to shut the whole thing down (fuse) or remove the signal that tells the ecu to 'control traction'
 
Thing is, ive also heard various things. Far as I can tell its not as simple as a single fuse, in fact ive looked, if there was a single fuse to pull I wouldve ages ago.

Ive heard instead you pull one of the ABS wheel sensor plugs out, which disables all the aids. Which is good and easy.

BUT also, depending who you believe...
It is not easy reversable, ie you try plug it back in and the light stays lit etc until you get the ECU reset with the plug-in thingy.
OR it does the above and also puts it into limp home mode.
Fuck, I heard if you change the diff ratio to one off another car, due to the ABS sensors that work off the diff, that puts it in to limp home mode too.

And the above isnt ideal. I know a lot makes it go in to limp home, as I made it do it myself with various things I tried.
BUT if it does and doesnt automatically reset, which is what some say when you do the ABS thing, I a bit reluctant to try it.

Washed the car yesterday for the first time in months. The arch rolling and winter salt has caned the front arches a bit, my fault, but fuckit.
 
ive got one of these as a daily, for 500 quid its awesome, got full leather and manual, now reading your thread i want more POWAR !
there is a larger pulley kit for it on german ebay, its about 200 quid delivered IIRC
its 210mm which i think ups the boost by about 20 percent.
 
You got a C230K for 500? Or you mean a C-class? Either way is decent going, there was a shitbox rust holed base model for sale on here the other week for like 850, lol :nod:

Ive seen pulleys from the USA, but cost more than that, ill have a look now, but if you have a link thatd be mint.
 
i'll watch this thread closely to see if you figure it out but it does sound like a merc is a fair hassle to make into a drifter :( im not to technically minded to figure these things out myself either so mostly i need to be told what to do lol, shame cos i really like the idea of a clk drifter.
 
Thing is, ive also heard various things. Far as I can tell its not as simple as a single fuse, in fact ive looked, if there was a single fuse to pull I wouldve ages ago.

Ive heard instead you pull one of the ABS wheel sensor plugs out, which disables all the aids. Which is good and easy.

BUT also, depending who you believe...
It is not easy reversable, ie you try plug it back in and the light stays lit etc until you get the ECU reset with the plug-in thingy.
OR it does the above and also puts it into limp home mode.
Fuck, I heard if you change the diff ratio to one off another car, due to the ABS sensors that work off the diff, that puts it in to limp home mode too.

And the above isnt ideal. I know a lot makes it go in to limp home, as I made it do it myself with various things I tried.
BUT if it does and doesnt automatically reset, which is what some say when you do the ABS thing, I a bit reluctant to try it.

Washed the car yesterday for the first time in months. The arch rolling and winter salt has caned the front arches a bit, my fault, but fuckit.

where are you based? got all the shit to reset the abs ecu so could try it at my work and then if it does go limp home during testing we could just plug it back in and reset ;)

Im liking this project, love the c230k's
 
Ruishy- Awesome work! Mine was 700quid with 8 months MOT. Basically saw it on eBay, always fancied one and this was local, ending soon, and no bids. Most in the same good nick seem to cost 2k+ but I put in 700quid as its all I had, lol, but it was reserve not met :(
It ended with me at 700quid only bidder but reserve not met.
Bloke messaged me and said, as he had jus bought another, already swapped his plates over, and had nowhere to keep it, if I came straight away with the money, its mine :)
He paid 1900quid for it a year before and he only got it that cheap as the supercharger clutch wouldnt engage (cam sensor wire was broke).
Its got some miles but youd never realise, fast, quiet, smooth, uses no oil, etc.
Cheers for the link too, fucking ideal!!! :worthy:

Robbs- I honestly reckon its going to be easy and fine, the Merc forum people are fucking homos, havent got a clue, mega keen but even a induction kit is too complex to pull off, and some of the tech advice they give each other has me in bits, but you gotta jus leave em to it.
BUT I dont know, and as its my 600mile a week daily too im a bit reluctant to fuck it up. Next week maybe...

Freddie- Fair way from you mate, Cheltenham when at home, Bath when at work. I spotted a indipendant Merc specialist near a photo studio we use not far from work so they may be able to help once I fuck it up, lol.
 
fair enough mate, cheap is always good in my eyes, why spend eleventy squillion pounds when you can do it on a shoestring :D
Ive read a bit about tuning them, and it seems that porting the supercharger gives a fair old power increase, the drop in temps and rise in efficiency is the equivalent to a larger pulley apparently !

Im considering porting mine and tig'ing up the silencer ports, also machining the supercharger pulley down a bit and buying that larger pulley kit should give a nice big increase in power :D

after that a remap would be needed and thats where it starts getting a bit expensive
 
Aye, trouble with porting them is the effort to take it off, and then dunno how well itd work. What silencer ports? I thought that was just on the later models, not the W202s? Maybe im wrong, but cant imagine it possible for mine to be any louder than it is!!!?!

Few companies in the UK do remaps, dont think they custom, but understand that even at stock boost it makes a big big difference, like 20plus horse they both say.

For extra fuel once you got the boost up, it seems most cope with a tweak of an adjustable fuel regulator and some colder plugs, which is fair easy.

One thing thats deffo worth doing I reckon, and cheap too, is changing the diff ratio.

I got under mine with a screwdriver and a big of bog roll in the pissing rain earlier to check the diff ratio, as nobody could tell me what it would be...
diff.jpg


And I know certain shitbox base models had 3.91s in them, so looks like I best look out for one at a breakers, shouldnt be hard.
 
yeah they have silencer ports on them mate, either side of the triangle the air gets forced out, welding them up will increase efficiency and noise, a plus in my books :D
im gonna buy a spare and port that, and then just swap them over, should net an easy 20 bhp just porting the charger.
Im gonna keep my standard diff for now, as when i go home its an 800 mile trip, so costs me about 160 quid in fuel as it is, ive fitted a button to turn the charger off in the hope i can increase the economy by just a few MPG when taking it easy on the m/way.
 
yeah they have silencer ports on them mate, either side of the triangle the air gets forced out, welding them up will increase efficiency and noise, a plus in my books :D
im gonna buy a spare and port that, and then just swap them over, should net an easy 20 bhp just porting the charger.
Im gonna keep my standard diff for now, as when i go home its an 800 mile trip, so costs me about 160 quid in fuel as it is, ive fitted a button to turn the charger off in the hope i can increase the economy by just a few MPG when taking it easy on the m/way.

Aaah, I know they have a main triangle and two others, I didnt realise that was what the others were for!!!

And I tried the supercharger off-switch thing (by just unplugging the bypass, it switches it off totally), made zero different to me mate :( I do about 130miles a day, and didnt make a jot of difference.

I got a boost gauge, and you can see until pretty much full throttle the boost gauge is showing zero, even though on mine you can hear the superhcarger screaming its tits off, it obv bypassed still till then, so I guess its to do with that.
 
ah well thats a bit of a cock, guess i might just start flying home then !
yeah those are just to quieten dow the charger allowing some of the air to feed back to the charger, a mild port job will increase power by 10 percent, so for a few hours measuring, grinding, polishing and welding its worthwhile in my eyes.
i was gonna keep this standard but this seems to be going straight out the window :D
any info i dig up il pass it along mate :)
 
im loving this thread. Ive got a 190e and was considering transplanting one of these engines into that ( i just prefer the looks of the 190 myself) but as you state, finding good reliable info on conversions off the merc forums isnt easy and no one will confirm if the swap is possible. Does anyone on here have any ideas if this engine (prob from an auto as they more common) would bolt to my 2.0l manual box in the 190??
 
Chucked it on the rolling road today to see what itd do.
226bhp and 242lbft :D (They 192bhp and 200lbft standard)
Over 220lbft from 2500 to 5250, and power stays over 200bhp right till it hits the limiter.
That explains its E46 330 beating quickness then.
Not bad for a car with 175k on it and a few home-made mods with a total cost of zero.

We even checked the map, and its totally standard. For the crack we tried uploading a better one, but for some reason it didnt want to know. Cant imagine it making much difference at standard boost anyhow.
rollers.jpg


Also, despite nobody in the entire Merc world seemingly knowing how to turn the traction control off, and wild tales of needing to disconnect wires in the wheel arches, and it making limp home mode turn on, etc etc etc, I found out how today while I was fiddling about.
You just pull the plug out the ABS module. Wow, what drama, not.

In other news, I fitted new disks and pads, which was easy, and attempted to fit uprated F+R anti roll bars, which was not easy.
The rear sits above all the suspension, and even with the front of the subframe disconnected and lowered about 2in, you got no chance of getting it out. Its a subframe off job, so can wait.
The front, well, it looks piss, but, err, its a totally different shape to standard...
arb.jpg

The mounting points were miles out, but they are bolted on, and oddly, if you swap them over passenger to driver, AND turn them backwards, they fit the new ARB! Good job we worked that out, as it dont come with instructions...
arb2.jpg


Also, I whipped the bumper off to see if I could fit a bigger intercooler, and to be honest, without some serious metalwork chopping and re-mounting of a few things, nope...
cooler.jpg

cooler2.jpg


But fuck it, I now have no traction control, time to get the diff welded...
 
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