Nah man ,unfortunately mine was 4wd, same set up as a GTR and 4wd Stagea with spastic 4wd front subframe and twin wishbone, building a custom subframe so I can get some lock and slam it, but will have to stick with skyline front setup, until I can be arsed to graft on some S14 front towers, but that's a while down to line yet. Yeah I don't have time for CAD ha ha, I'm just glad someone else did it. Think I'll get some of those, good find squire, keep the build thread going it's goingto be awesome by the looks of it.
Oh wow, I had no idea at all these came four wheel drive... Makes me wonder if they were sold in NZ at all. A GTR spec build with one would make a mean sleeper street car
After slamming the car in preparation for its re-cert, it looked a whole lot more cool, but also damn near ripped my intercooler off exiting and entering the driveway
I started my fab course a couple of days ago, and leading up to it I realized that I didn't really have the money spare to make it happen any more, as I am now a student, so decided to attempt to get the car a WOF as it was. I reset the height of it, slapped the front end back on and gave it a go.
Because it had been over 28 days since it's last attempt, the list of requirements had dropped off of the system, and these different blokes went over it from scratch. They were quite nice guys, one of them being an ex rally car driver, and warmed up to me after they realized I wasn't another dickhead in a Nissan. The new to-do list went like this:
Rear licence plate light to work
Horn to work
All front lights to be wired up (hadn't got around to it, lol)
Windscreen squirters to be re-installed
Lock diff replaced
Rear brakes balanced (disassembly, cleaning and greasing of the shafts should sort it fine)
Both left wheels have excessive play
I was absolutely stoked with the list, as they said the 'chassis damage' was within their limits, although told me not to let it get any worse before coming back again
By the time I need another WOF I should be good enough with metal to be able to straighten the bottom out just fine anyway. They also saw no reason to send me off for a £250+ re-cert for the seats that were obviously probably in the car at the time of its initial cert 6 years ago too.
Both left wheels were wiggling a little because of scary, yet easy to fix reasons. I had completely forgot to tighten the inner left LCA bolt on the front after grinding the lock stop off, so we tightened that on the spot. Not so scary was the rear inner toe arm bolt, which was tight, yet not tight enough. Instead of just tightening it, I took 5 minutes to pull it out, and installed one of the four eccentric lockout bolts I bought months back, and now there is only a tiny bit of play from an old wheel bearing. I'll replace it as soon as I can afford to.
A mate gave me his open R180 diff to put in temporarily, the only problem being that his is an older type from an S13, having solid mounts, with four bolts on the rear instead of two pineapples.
I bought factory sized bolts for the front two, M12x1.0 at 75mm, instead of my 90mm ones.
I also discovered that the welds on my diff definitely leave a lot to be desired. There are 8 welds instead of a big whole mess of overkill like most people do, showing some cracks here and there. I'll reuse it for now, but I hope I'll manage to find a decent LSD before long.
Cleaned off the ridiculous amounts of slag that the diff bung managed to pick up.
Turns out factory sized S13 front diff bolts are too long to use in my circumstance, but luckily I had some massive M12 washers to use from my uninstalled eccentric lockout kit bolts, which I am happy with seeing as the old diff will be put back in within 24 hours anyway
I managed to find the old squirter bottle with its water pump, and installed it, only needing to identify the wire that will bring it it's 12v supply. If I have trouble doing that, I'll just do a temp job hooking it up with a missile switch.
Tonight I will finally finish rewiring the entire front end too, which should have been done months back when I de-loomed the engine bay, but got lazy. After all that, if they are happy with the rear brakes, I should be on the road tomorrow and daily-ing this thing to Polytech
Next up is fixing a leaky intake manifold. Coolant is staying in the motor when cold, but when the motor heats up and the coolant wants to expand, it begins quite a steady drip. I'm hoping a simple replacement gasket will fix it. I jacked the front of the car sky high to see if and air had gathered inside the head (RB's are notorious for this, for whoever doesn't know), but it appears that the overflow bottle has been doing its job with letting the motor suck coolant back into the radiator when the motor cools down, as the radiator was still full and no bubbles appeared whatsoever.
Oh! And I think I'll finally get around to trying to get the temperature sensor to go too... Probably should have been the very first thing I did to the car
Wish me luck