toyota soarer??
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
Paz
-NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- UK Drift Since 2001
Twin Turbo is best, as far as i know they didnt come with an LSD but im not sure. I know of an early TT that Mr.Julian had and it didnt have an LSD so thats all im going off. Most are Auto which is shit, so search like crazy for a manual.. Soarer's are pimp. And yeah, supposedly good for drift despite the size and wieght. Im pretty sure with basic bolt on mods you can pull 350-400hp from the TT (1JZGTE). However, if it is the real Mycroft he'll be along to tell you everything you ever need to know about them, and to also tell you everything there is to know about drifting. 
Plus they are well quick, great top speed too
Paz
Plus they are well quick, great top speed too
Paz
F.M.Sideways Mycroft
Member
Buy a Twin-turbo in a rare colour [Red] make sure it has the TEMS and a Sunroof, scvavenge a leather interior from a V8 fit it,buy some LS400 light alloy brakes from a 97> LS400, buy a set of 9x18s from TVR [The Spider type].
Have the suspension sorted properly, new bushes and the ball joints pressure sealed, reduce the droop from the from suspension, remove the restrictors in the inlet tract, replace the cat with an expansion type unit, straight thru stuff is for ahseholes who know sweet FA about Turbos... Question? How many of you know why that stupid 'straight-thru' cat replacement pipe is so crap at generating the torque you once had when the cat was there? Don't bother, you don't that is why you all have them... ''straight -thru, the choice of morons''
Et-a viola! You have 330hp and320ftlbs of torque for under £500, and the handling changed beyond anything you guys have driven... for less than another grand...
Then you can get serious and spend another 2 grand and have a real live 190mph car that will kill almost anything on the road...
The Auto-box is fantastic, steer clear of the manual, it only requires a monkey to use a manual box, to drive an auto FAST requires intellect, still, I am probably wasting my time.
Switch the TEMS to 'trackday mode'
Have the suspension sorted properly, new bushes and the ball joints pressure sealed, reduce the droop from the from suspension, remove the restrictors in the inlet tract, replace the cat with an expansion type unit, straight thru stuff is for ahseholes who know sweet FA about Turbos... Question? How many of you know why that stupid 'straight-thru' cat replacement pipe is so crap at generating the torque you once had when the cat was there? Don't bother, you don't that is why you all have them... ''straight -thru, the choice of morons''
Et-a viola! You have 330hp and320ftlbs of torque for under £500, and the handling changed beyond anything you guys have driven... for less than another grand...
Then you can get serious and spend another 2 grand and have a real live 190mph car that will kill almost anything on the road...
The Auto-box is fantastic, steer clear of the manual, it only requires a monkey to use a manual box, to drive an auto FAST requires intellect, still, I am probably wasting my time.
Switch the TEMS to 'trackday mode'
Paz
-NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- UK Drift Since 2001
Told you 
Thanks for the input Iian, but a sunroof and leather?
Sunroof's are generally bad cus if you roll the car you/your limbs could well fall through them (if its a glass type? Not sure what sunroof Soarers have). Steer clear if possible. Leather? Um.. My (theoretical) Soarer would be stripped inside, basically 1 bucket and a dashboard.
And we aint talkin about driving "Fast" in this sense, were talking drifting. Auto Box's, however fantastic they may be
arent too good for drifting. Manual gives you more options and indeed control. If Auto's were so good for drifting, everyone in Japan would be using them...
Cheers
Paz
Thanks for the input Iian, but a sunroof and leather?
Sunroof's are generally bad cus if you roll the car you/your limbs could well fall through them (if its a glass type? Not sure what sunroof Soarers have). Steer clear if possible. Leather? Um.. My (theoretical) Soarer would be stripped inside, basically 1 bucket and a dashboard.And we aint talkin about driving "Fast" in this sense, were talking drifting. Auto Box's, however fantastic they may be
arent too good for drifting. Manual gives you more options and indeed control. If Auto's were so good for drifting, everyone in Japan would be using them...Cheers
Paz
F.M.Sideways Mycroft
Member
1/. If you drive fast or are driving fast close the sunroof if you are that worried.
The Soarer was designed for Active suspension, it has the most rigid chassis of any japanese car made, it has only just been beaten by the latest M5 from BMW and the Soarer was designed in 1990, so rigidity in a roll is not an issue.
I have had some high speed blowouts in Soarers one at 120+ and one at 140+ both fronts both with no drama at all, because the chassis does not do anything stupid like flex and bear down on the deflating tyre.
I damned near died when I had a front wheel blow out in a Jaguar a long time ago and that was at 70mph...
As for leather, the car is not a chavs-chariot so get some leather!
Yeah, I keep forgetting you guys find drifting a challenge, whereas I see it as a failure in progress... and driving is all about getting somewhere, that is why I loathe trackdays and the other 'confined events'... you go nowhere and you can't getaway from the peasents... you are 'banged up' with the fvckers...
The Soarer was designed for Active suspension, it has the most rigid chassis of any japanese car made, it has only just been beaten by the latest M5 from BMW and the Soarer was designed in 1990, so rigidity in a roll is not an issue.
I have had some high speed blowouts in Soarers one at 120+ and one at 140+ both fronts both with no drama at all, because the chassis does not do anything stupid like flex and bear down on the deflating tyre.
I damned near died when I had a front wheel blow out in a Jaguar a long time ago and that was at 70mph...
As for leather, the car is not a chavs-chariot so get some leather!
Yeah, I keep forgetting you guys find drifting a challenge, whereas I see it as a failure in progress... and driving is all about getting somewhere, that is why I loathe trackdays and the other 'confined events'... you go nowhere and you can't getaway from the peasents... you are 'banged up' with the fvckers...
F.M.Sideways Mycroft
Member
Because I saw a link on the GTR to Bladey selling 'Agent Orange'... I consider Bladey to be a thoroughly good sort and as such wanted to have a wee banter with the guy without the 'strictures' that the GTR [necessarily] places on its posts...
F.M.Sideways Mycroft
Member
Nothing 'tech' in my posts at all, just simple 'how to' stuff...
uncrowded monarch
acc and sort code please
sideways
im glad your onboard just the sort of man i like
no beating about the bush.....not that bush
im glad your onboard just the sort of man i like
no beating about the bush.....not that bush
CorollaRWD
-RUTHLESS-
MyCroft,
So you think position sensitive platform damping will make its way on to drift car if it hasn't already in japan?
Alex
So you think position sensitive platform damping will make its way on to drift car if it hasn't already in japan?
Alex
Uncrowded Monarch Please see rule 1 here
http://www.driftworks.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2699
Mycroft: Hello mate, please see rule 3
http://www.driftworks.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2699
Mycroft: Hello mate, please see rule 3
Dogs Danglies
Sick Puppy
I love Soarers, considering getting one as a project soon, painted a nice balls out colour, I would still have manual though, I'm not good enough for that auto stuff 
F.M.Sideways Mycroft
Member
I am not sure I know what that means...
The attachment points for all suspension kinematics is case sensitive, this can be seen in many cars that share a base platform that is modified for different models...
The Toyota JZ series is the only one I have experience of so can only relate any experience of shared platforms to that design...
There are JZZ [Soarer] JZA [Supra] JZX [Chaser]...
The ZZ was the base design, it was to be the basis of the race car [Skyline beater] and the Active car.
So as to get the correct names for things I will treat the main body of the car as the Monocoque and the suspension and sub-frames as the Chassis, this is the correct way to address these items.
The base monocoque design has all attachment points optimise for both strength [rigidity] and frequency [overlooked, but vital].
The JZA was a shortened version of the same base monocoque [it was meant to be a very light design] however to maintain the ability to take the 'straight 6' the bit taken out was aft of the driver and this had a bad effect on the 2 parameters outlined above, it was made less rigid despite the reduction of the base length of the twisting [torque] motion... due to the removal of a number of rigidity spars along the spine of the monocoque that were present on the ZZ, the effect of this was simply a change in the susceptability to frequecy anomalies and worse still the lack of damping of them, this shows itself in the Supra in that wonderful 'snakey-tail' problem that has caught out dozens of silly buggers who don't realise what is happening, talk to Skyjawa [aka Suprajawa, scoobyjawa] if you have difficulty grasping this simple fact.
What actually happens is also exacerbated by using a Torsen diff. which has notorious problems with a high frequency rate change in operation [convential lockers do not suffer this]
The ZX monocoque was made lighter by removing the spars and also made longer by adding 2 sections at first this would seem to significantly reduce the torque rating of the chassis and it does but surprisingly not as much as shortening it for the Supra, this at first seems vexing and counter-intuitive but the great benefit was to change the base frequency of the monocoque and by pure luck to a non-reciprocal frequency when the chassis components were added, to put this simply there is an interaction between the base frequency of the monocoque and the chassis articuating parts, designers try to 'null' them and they are usually quite good at it, sometimes you may want there to be a reaction between the chassis and the monocoque this is to make the car twitchy, it can bring it alive, it can also make it too twitchy [think about the Supra again and you'll start to understand], so they wanted to get as close to a 'null' in the Chaser and dammit they got it, drive a Chaser and you will see what I mean, it is an amazing piece of kit upto its pretty high limits, it is distanced from the road yet seems to impart all you need to know about it, a bloody fine trick indeed, drive a Soarer and you don't get that, you are cushioned from the road as the setting are meant to do this, you can give the Soarer these settings very easily but it is not standard, it is on the Chaser and is all wrong on the Supra, they basically overdid it.
The attachment points for all suspension kinematics is case sensitive, this can be seen in many cars that share a base platform that is modified for different models...
The Toyota JZ series is the only one I have experience of so can only relate any experience of shared platforms to that design...
There are JZZ [Soarer] JZA [Supra] JZX [Chaser]...
The ZZ was the base design, it was to be the basis of the race car [Skyline beater] and the Active car.
So as to get the correct names for things I will treat the main body of the car as the Monocoque and the suspension and sub-frames as the Chassis, this is the correct way to address these items.
The base monocoque design has all attachment points optimise for both strength [rigidity] and frequency [overlooked, but vital].
The JZA was a shortened version of the same base monocoque [it was meant to be a very light design] however to maintain the ability to take the 'straight 6' the bit taken out was aft of the driver and this had a bad effect on the 2 parameters outlined above, it was made less rigid despite the reduction of the base length of the twisting [torque] motion... due to the removal of a number of rigidity spars along the spine of the monocoque that were present on the ZZ, the effect of this was simply a change in the susceptability to frequecy anomalies and worse still the lack of damping of them, this shows itself in the Supra in that wonderful 'snakey-tail' problem that has caught out dozens of silly buggers who don't realise what is happening, talk to Skyjawa [aka Suprajawa, scoobyjawa] if you have difficulty grasping this simple fact.
What actually happens is also exacerbated by using a Torsen diff. which has notorious problems with a high frequency rate change in operation [convential lockers do not suffer this]
The ZX monocoque was made lighter by removing the spars and also made longer by adding 2 sections at first this would seem to significantly reduce the torque rating of the chassis and it does but surprisingly not as much as shortening it for the Supra, this at first seems vexing and counter-intuitive but the great benefit was to change the base frequency of the monocoque and by pure luck to a non-reciprocal frequency when the chassis components were added, to put this simply there is an interaction between the base frequency of the monocoque and the chassis articuating parts, designers try to 'null' them and they are usually quite good at it, sometimes you may want there to be a reaction between the chassis and the monocoque this is to make the car twitchy, it can bring it alive, it can also make it too twitchy [think about the Supra again and you'll start to understand], so they wanted to get as close to a 'null' in the Chaser and dammit they got it, drive a Chaser and you will see what I mean, it is an amazing piece of kit upto its pretty high limits, it is distanced from the road yet seems to impart all you need to know about it, a bloody fine trick indeed, drive a Soarer and you don't get that, you are cushioned from the road as the setting are meant to do this, you can give the Soarer these settings very easily but it is not standard, it is on the Chaser and is all wrong on the Supra, they basically overdid it.
Last edited:
uncrowded monarch
acc and sort code please
bloody pixels
F.M.Sideways Mycroft
Member
Phil said:Uncrowded Monarch Please see rule 1 here
http://www.driftworks.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2699
Mycroft: Hello mate, please see rule 3
I always play nice, it is in my nature...
CorollaRWD
-RUTHLESS-
F.M.Sideways Mycroft said:
Not to do with the base platform but is linked to it as a rigid body would make the suspension component more effective.
I was talking about damping circuits built within suspension to give a certain outcome without the need to use complex linkages.
Ie anti dive shocks.
You can set a stable damping platform which can/not be speed/position sensitive for example stop body roll at any way through the damper travel without having to rely on ARBs. Would be perfect for drift cars.
More simple way would be to increase low speed compression damping to reduce body roll more commonly used and I think basically it what all the 'D1 Spec' dampers have done.
I can find you some info if you are interested
cheers
Alex
CorollaRWD
-RUTHLESS-
Oh your post was very interesting by the way 