UZZ31 manual experiment.

Cheers for kind words guys!

shifty biscuits said:
i used an mr2 turbo xtd clutch and flywheel, then after that died i fitted a exedy 3 puk thing. the bellhousing was ks racing which was too long for any combo of clutch fork to work. i did bodge up a fork and turned down and stacked two bearing carriers to space it out but that set up looked ropey as hell so i turned up a spacer and fitted saab slave. then when that died i bought a ram slave and new lines from summet racing. all in all a huge ball ache but god damn when you release that engine from the shitty slush box its amazing how much it comes to life. torque from idle and so free revving... then there is the noise.
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Yeah i heard a few mixed things about the KS racing bell housing so opted out of that one.

So with the gearbox all attached it was time to start on a gearbox mount, now i red online that you can use the auto one if you oval the holes, this is all lies.

If, like me, you are using the W58 V block to mount to the box itself to the mount, the auto brace is not suitable due to having no center bore for the center nut of the V block and the 4 holes to mount the V block to the brace are miles out. It would take a lot more than ovaling the holes for those to meet up and it would look shoddy.

So, i chose use the auto mount as i was prepared to do the work and chopping about of it. So i mounted the V block to the gearbox and loosely placed the auto mount to see what needed to be done. But the main problem i found was that if you used the V mount in its entirety than the mount itself would hang to low.

So i chose to chop the V mount and the inch thick of rubber to raise the height a bit, and ended up with this.



I then drilled a center hole through the auto mount for the gearbox bolt to slot through. This may look a bit sloppy, i thought this myself, so i plan to see how it pans out and if it isn't very efficient then i will be making a completely new mount at work as i have all the suitable facilities there.

Then i bolted the whole thing together and used thick rubber padding to act as a barrier between the 2 solid metal surfaces. It seems very sturdy at the moment but hat might change when driving.



Next i had to cut the hole in the transmission tunnel, now Toyota have made this easy for you. Basically they've put a raised square section in the tunnel like so.



All you need to do is chop that out.



Boom.

Next i installed the shifter to check the driving position.



While it looks bang on, its not. Once the trim is all put back in then it will hit on the center console ashtray. So i took it to work and chopped it about a bit.



I made a template, chopped the original shifter and welded a piece in so it shifted the obstructing piece about 1.5 inches back. I did intend to bend it but the oxy bottle was out of gas.

I also connected the braided clutch lines to the master cylinder and tightened it all down.

Next week i should be working out what to do with the prop and installing the clutch pedal.

Edit : the gearbox mount is really bothering me, so i decided to weld a piece of flat onto the bottom of the V mount and drill 2 holes in it so it lines up with the original bolt holes on the auto brace, as well as the high tensile center bolt!
 
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So like i said, i wasn't happy with the gearbox mount and the one bolt structure, so i took the mount off and took it to work.

I made a plate out of 3mm thick flat steel and welded it to the bottom of the V mount. I then drilled 3 holes, one for the high tensile bolt and 2 for the auto gearbox mount bolt holes.





Much better than the single bolt.

I also bit the bullet and ordered the clutch pedal bits from Toyota.
If you're thinking about doing this then all i suggest is DO IT NOW. 3 months ago i got a quote from Toyota for £203 for all parts of the pedal including VAT, i went back last week and it had gone up to £209.
 
C1arke said:
A mk4 supra pedal is the same and 2nd hand is 60 and 120 from a braker with the master cylinder
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I knew this i just couldn't get hold of one. I tried numerous breakers on ebay and forums, always one of the first items to go.

I used a mk4 master cylider though so that was some cash saved.
 
Irishtwincam said:
Updates :D ?
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Haha, well i fitted the gearbox mount, works a treat, also the shifter, which too works a treat.

Then i started work on the prop shaft.

First i thought id get away with a using the mk3 supras prop as it looked like it would line up roughly with a little bit of extending at the rear end to the diff. But the center bearing housing would not fit in the allocated space without chopping wither the housing or the tunnel.



Auto shaft on the bottom and W58 one on the top.

So instead i separated the auto prop shaft and bolted the rear section back into place, this just leaves me with the task of fabricating the front of the prop to match the gearbox.



So i took the measurements i needed and the ends of each shaft i need and am taking them to work to fabricate them properly, then it will be sent out for balancing.



I still haven't got the pedal from Toyota and im after manual to electrical VSS so i can actually have a working speedo. Then ill be able to test drive it, with no exhaust of course.
 
So while work was a little quiet today i started work on the prop shaft.

First of all i took measurements while i was under the car between the gearbox and the spline end of the prop. The maximum length i could get away with is 540mm but just to be safe im going a little under to allow for movement, probably achieving 530 - 525mm.

I then marked out what i needed to on both shafts and cut one on the ban saw, ensuring it was a straight cut, and parted the other on my lathe.



I then made sure the smaller OD fit inside the larger shaft and measured again to make sure it was near my desired size. After that was sorted i took measurements of both the larger shaft ID and the smaller shaft OD to be able to turn up a sleeve to mate them both together.

Using a bit of 2.5 inch OD pipe i started turning.





Once i made sure each shaft had a snug fit i then parted it off.




This is the finished product with the shafts. it measures out at 140mm long and once fitted with both shafts gives me a final length of 530mm.

I then used the OXY torch to heat it up and mated it to the smaller shaft.



Then i fitted it all inside the larger shaft. Job done for the time being, i just need to offer it up to the car and see if there are any changes to be made before final welding.

 
It is very good! More updates please :-D
Please let us know how well the gearbox conversion kit works out, clutch pedal feel, engagement etc.
 
So i took the Prop to my unit last night to check the fitment, it needed to be pulled out by 10mm to match the distance of the old shaft but other than that it was perfect.

I then took it back to work and tigged it together.




After that i gave it a quick coat of red oxide.



Now i just need to send it out for balancing and it will be complete.
 
So, iv still been working away on this old girl and making some nice progress.

I fitted the prop shaft and bolted everything up and its fits perfectly. Iv got no pictures of it fitted but i got some of it sat on my bench looking pretty.




Other than that, all the pieces for the clutch pedal turned up and i spent a few minutes putting it together, watch out for this little bastard, it snaps back unexpectedly and it bloody hurts if it pins your fingers.



I then set about fitting it, fuck this was a nightmare. Toyota have clogged up the area for the pedal with all manner of electrics and computers etc etc such as these.



and some muppet has chosen that place to install their POS alarm system.

So remove all you can and i suggest removing most of the trim around the dash and steering wheel on the drivers side, this makes it a hell of a lot easier. No pictures as it was so tight in there and quite frankly it wound me up.

But after a lot of swearing, cramps and banging heads, it was finally in and bolted up to all the Toyota designated holes.



Only picture iv got of the pedal positions as of yet, but you will have to chop the brake pedal or do what im planning on doing and removing the pedal and bending it across a bit with a oxy torch.

Anyway, on to the problems encountered. First of all it didn't seem like the master cylinder had enough reach on it for the full travel of the pedal when connected, even when the connector is wound out at its furthest, others haven't had this problem so i checked all the positioning of the pedal and its fine so god knows whats going on.

The other problem iv had is bleeding the clutch, bled it for about 30 minutes closed, up, open, down etc etc but the best it would do is trickle out of the bleed nipple and the pedal was still as slack as ever.

Iv checked for leaks and found nothing, i also removed the lines off the master cylinder and pumped it and it squirted out under pressure so that's fine. My mate thought the pedal might not be traveling far enough to exhume substantial pressure, so i removed the connector studding in the cylinder and made a exact copy out of stainless just a little longer.



I also checked the bell housing to see if it is leaking from the slave but not a drop as far as i could see or feel. It may just be awkward to bleed so a mate is bringing a special bleed system they use on their work trucks to speed things along.

Other than that, i bought some awesome rear wheels. 18 X 11 ET19 ENKEI'S.



I spent most of Saturday nitro morsing the purple off and polishing the chrome back up, didn't come out too bad.

 
Irishtwincam said:
More updates please :)
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Stuck at the last hurdle at the moment mate.

All thats left is to bleed the clutch, fill the box with oil, re fit the exhaust and drive it.

But the clutch wont bleed and refuses to be bled. I tried manually bleeding at that didnt work, so i took the master cylinder to pieces to make sure all the seals were ok, they were. Then i re fitted it and tried with a vacuum bleeder but it still wont bleed.

Air and fluid are coming through the lines but after 45 minutes of bleeding the pedal still springs to the floor and stays there. The box may have to come off again to inspect the slave.
 
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