UZZ31 manual experiment.

have you bled the slave ?
I know these sound like stupid questions but its easy to overlook things like this
 
If your master cylinder is ok, then i'd wager that ether the slave is duff, or the lines are not completely tight and are allowing air in
 
Right, yesterday i got sick of this being a axle stand ornament so decided to remove the box to check the slave and that the system was working correctly.

It only took 30 minutes to remove the box this time which was a nice change of pace. All went well until the box fell on my hand pinning my wrist and arm upright, but after a few mates got it off me we checked the system. I pumped the pedal shile they bled the lines from the slave. We got pressure in the slave a few minutes after that. So we let a little fluid out of the bleed nipple so the slave could retract on the shaft and re attached the box.

Bled the system again and had no pressure once again.

So removed the box and re bled it from the lines and couldnt get any pressure at all :/
At this point we were all getting really irritated and decided that the problem nore than likely lies within the master. So im biting the bullet and ordering a brand new master from toyota this week to see if thats at fault.
 
I done a similar thing with my prop, but that big nut that bolts to the rear section used to slide down over time, it tightens up for rotational grip but seems to move forwards so I ended up welding it. Will probably end up going single piece over time.

Nice job man.
 
To test the master, undo the pipes and plug them with bolts.
Then press the pedal, if the pedal doesn't stay firm you know the master is fine
 
mc_bob said:
I done a similar thing with my prop, but that big nut that bolts to the rear section used to slide down over time, it tightens up for rotational grip but seems to move forwards so I ended up welding it. Will probably end up going single piece over time.

Nice job man.
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cheers mate, yeh ill see how it goes when i actually get to drive it!

Ruishy1 said:
To test the master, undo the pipes and plug them with bolts.
Then press the pedal, if the pedal doesn't stay firm you know the master is fine
Click to expand...

The pedals not firm at the moment mate, if i plug the outlet up and press the pedal shouldn't the pedal be firm? As the fluids not traveling anywhere .
 
Ruishy1 said:
what I meant is the pedal would stay firm and not go to the floor doing it that way :)
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Went down today and tested the master cylinder by bunging up the outlet. As soon as i touched the pedal i had instant pressure :/

This is now beyond aggrivating so tommorow im going to be testing the lines and the slave.
 
I had what sounds like a similar issue with a mates 1uz. Issue was that the master cylinder doesn't move enough fluid to actuate the slave. Waiting on a bigger master turning up to solve the issue.
 
Dunkz said:
I had what sounds like a similar issue with a mates 1uz. Issue was that the master cylinder doesn't move enough fluid to actuate the slave. Waiting on a bigger master turning up to solve the issue.
Click to expand...

I got recommended to buy a wilwood 3/4 bore master from ebay by the guy that manufactures the kit, but i told him im using a JZA80 master and he said it should be fine. But yeh, obviously not if its a common problem.
 
We could get the clutch to disengage originally but only just at the limit of pedal travel. The hose to the slave was leaking though. The new hose that arrived was a bigger diameter and the extra fluid it took was enough to not be able to disengage the clutch anymore so the bigger master will sort things out.
 
Have many people done this conversion can't say I've heard or seen any manual v8 soarers, as much as I love my manual one it's got to go I know I'll regret it after :(
 
marcz32 said:
Have many people done this conversion can't say I've heard or seen any manual v8 soarers, as much as I love my manual one it's got to go I know I'll regret it after :(
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I havent seen one in person but i know they exsist. A lot of people do them in the states or auz!
 
Loads of folk have done it in the States and Oz, but over here they are few and far between.
This is the reason I hate concentric slaves, they can be a fucking pain and makes things harder to diagnose
 
Ruishy1 said:
Loads of folk have done it in the States and Oz, but over here they are few and far between.
This is the reason I hate concentric slaves, they can be a fucking pain and makes things harder to diagnose
Click to expand...

I bought a 3/4 bore wilwood master as the american chap recommended it and was adiment the toyota master wouldnt be man enough! Currently making a adaptor plate for the master bolt holes and ill see how it goes!
 
So, i got the 3/4 Wilwood and discovered that the mounting holes were completely different to the Toyota ones, so i set about making a adapter plate.




Then i forgot that Americans are awkward, and were using imperial threads where Toyota were using metric. So i had to make a adapter piece up for the pedal connector (got no picture) and buy a imperial banjo bolt.

So after all that was done and sorted and the box still off the engine i tested the system.

Exactly the same results as before. We bled the system completely and got no pressure behind the slave whatsoever, I could push it back on the spline with my hand.

So as far as i can see now the only problem it could be is the slave. This was part of the kit i bought so i'm currently in talks with the seller.
 
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