Driftworks GeoMaster Hub Knuckles

Karan said:
Nope doesn't matter on Nissan style ebrake
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I found my handbrake to be much worse since fitting the knuckles. I believe it's mainly because the shoes are all bed in for the stock rotation so you basically have to re bed them in for the new rotation. It's good enough for parking though so goes through mot fine.
To be honest if your going as far as firing these knuckles a hydro should be on your list of to do's anyway.
 
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thegosson said:
so when are version 2 available to us folk? you've mentioned previously about the rears having differences to acomidate z32, r32, r33 etc.... drum brakes and the like but are there any modification/ improvement to the front? and if so could you be so kind as to tell us what the differences are?
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I just want to clarify, the shop 'questions/answers' state that the rear Geomaster knuckles can be fitted to a Z32 TT but fronts won't fit

- do they need a small amount of modifying to fit a zed or are they just bolt on?

- is there any way of adapting/modifying a front set so that they will work on a zed?


zed's fitted with the full DW adjustable package, tein coilovers/tein tie rods

cheers
 
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I think the shock mount is different on the rear hub so you need to fit an s13/14 lower half of the rear shock.
The fronts are totally different unless you change to McPherson strut style suspension like they do on the skylines. Yours is double wishbone up front like the skyline I believe?
 
Really keen to get these but not sure if i can, i've got an s13 that i've done a 5 stud conversion on using r33 gtst parts, will theses fit on my car???

Cheers Joel
 
I believe the parts you used to convert the s13 are only the hub bearing carriers anyway which bolted to the s13 knuckles yes?

In which case these will fit fine
 
Ok yeah I think thats how it was done, I'll just find pictures of s13 and r33 knuckles and see which mine has, so if it has still got s13 knuckles I'll be able to use these? And also do I have to modify the lower control arms or tie rods or tie rod ends??
 
Tie rods could do with moving more inboard on the bush end for more clearance but thats not essential.
 
Glad I found this thread before going through the headache of figuring out how these things fit.

Now I'm just wondering what coilovers are tall enough in the rear for s14?

Anyone use PBM Pros, Fortune Autos or KW V3 without issue?

Also how much longer than stock do the tie rods have to be? I have some inners that are 1" longer than stock S14.

Do the R33 E-brake lines still work with the knuckles on s14's or will I have to mod those too?
 
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There should be no headache, as they come with simple instructions on how to fit them. If you don't have them, then drop us an e-mail and we will send them over.

Driftworks CS2 coilovers and HSD HR's go high enough.

If you're not using the Offset rack spacer then around 25mm should be fine, so your 1" long ends should work.

The R33 lines will work fine, just follow the instructions.
 
Ah okay, good to know they come with instructions. I purchased my knuckles a while back and never got instructions so sent you an email.

Thanks
 
Foggyz said:
Any informations of fitting on a front 350z suspension? thanks
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You'd need to convert to 200SX front suspension, or adapt the current suspension to fit, which is the basics of fitting them to anything other than an 200sx :)
 
If I wanted to use the front knuckles on an S13, can I fit the S14 wheel bearings into the S13 4 stud hubs? rather than having to change to the S14 5 stud hubs?
 
Guys,

Just went to start fitting the rear Geo's to my car. Instantly noticed an issue which I think is a bit of a pain in the hoop. Was relieved to see that you now supply packing washers with the knuckles when being fitted to a car with drum-handbrake gear. But the washers aren't the right size.

You supply 8x18mm washers for each drum brake mech taper that goes through the knuckle. But the base of the taper is something like 22mm. The thickness of the geo hub where the taper goes through is 8mm thick, but the length of the taper is getting on 20mm, so you cant physically bolt it down as the washers arent big enough to allow the taper?

Thickness of geo hub:

20120407_112703.jpg



Taper that protrudes through the other side:

20120407_114328.jpg



With the 8 washers fitted (they dont go further than the end of the threads!):

20120407_114343.jpg



With nut fitted, the 8 washers on the nyloc doesnt engage with the threads either, so you dont need that many washers:

20120407_114359.jpg



So now im going to shoot round my mates who's going to turn me some spacers up so I can fit these. I think the bunch of washers to cure the fix is a bit of a bodge personally. Surely it would be easy enough to supply two ally spacers with these kits for the drum brake taper?

For people like me who just have a driveway/jack/socket set this is a right pain in the ass, luckily I do know someone with a lathe but it'd be a bit of a headache if I didnt. For the cost of the hubs it'd be nice to know they bolt straight up im sure you agree :smash:
 
All sorted:

20120407_173207.jpg


Its also worth mentioning, that if you run 17" wheels with geomasters and driftworks lower arms the lower balljoint nut hits the wheel lol. Had to grind a bit off the bottom so they clear.

Other than that, car feels good so far, looking forward to really seeing the improvements at a drift day.
 
The wheel issue is an offset thing. I have stock 16s on mine with wheel spacers and there is no clearance issues at all.
 
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