Boost Control
Now, ive always wanted an external gate just to make those noises and have rock solid boost control. So whilst my vision is to built it once and build it right, ive opted to choose the Turbosmart 45mm Hyper-Gate. Tial’s are notoriously bad for leaking even genuine ones from what ive been told from numerous people who know their stuff, and Turbosmart is apparently one of the few that actually seal and wont leak, which is fine by me!
So a friend hooked me up a killer deal @ Enjuku Racing and before you know it, its sat in my room waiting patiently! (And it still is lol!)
Opted for black to try and keep the car simple and classy ☺
Another selling point was the 45mm V-Bands it uses, allows for quick and easy changes and alterations ☺
The Clutch
So far ive sorted how to blow lots of air nicely, now I needed to decide how to get that power down to the ground. My aim was a clutch that was above my requirements so I know it wont slip and will handle some aggressive clutch kicks, as im not interested in high power, handbrake entry drifting. I still want to retain the proper way, a flick and a kick!
So after speaking to a number of people around the world who have pretty decent SR20’s, I settled for an OS Giken Super Single, then changed my mind as the id be running it near its maximum torque application so a twin plate has to be done, purely for the little metallic jingle they make upon start up!
I then settled for an STR Twin Plate, a clutch that its optimized for the street but then I was recommended the OS Giken TS2BD clutch, which in laymen’s terms, a Dampened Twin Plate clutch. Ive stuck with a sprung clutch just to ease the box a bit, even though the hefty 350z box is going in :smoking:
So ordered from Japan, wasn’t too long til it was here. Only way to know it was genuine too;
Some proper snazzy stickers which im sure ill whore off somehow;
It even has its own proper instruction manual, albeit in Japanese. Hey, it makes me feel cool haha
SR20? Check!
The money shot!
Standard Flywheel bolts are stretch bolts and should* only be used once, and whilst I have a fancy clutch it’d be rude not to run some proper flywheel bolts, so got hold of some ARP’s which’ll do the job nicely!
It sure is big, but it’ll handle what I throw at it and combined with the lightened flywheel, it should weigh around the same as the standard flywheel and clutch combo ☺
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Engine Management
I hate running Air Flow Meter’s, even though ive never had any trouble with them you always hear non stop running issues which 99% tend to be down to the AFM’s, and id rather not run an old Z32 AFM anyway. So a MAP sensor based ECU was required, id considered the Link G4 as a friends car ran one on an RB and it ran sweet, but the JDM boy inside of me wanted a Power FC D-Jetro, just to have the controller in front of me
Plus, Greg @ Protuner will hopefully be mapping this, so has loads of experiences with PFC’s and no doubt one of the best mappers in the UK so I have faith he’ll be able to push the engine to its limits with the ECU setup. So off some money went to Japan again and back came this;
Came with the new funky controller too
Whilst I bought my Wastegate form Enjuku, I also bought the Tomei Oil Block so I can ditch the standard water cooler block from factory. A key point of doing this is to eliminate the chances of the standard block cracking which would be bad! An since I have a Tomei love I had to buy one!
Quality is as you’d expect, second to none. I couldn’t help myself just staring at it to be honest, reminded the reason why I’d rather save that little bit longer and buy quality goods.
Now I needed a sandwich plate as I want to run an oil cooler to make sure the SR stays at optimal temperatures, not that ive had any ounce of temperature issues anyway. Prevention is key!
So, ordered myself a GREX/Trust sandwich plate, again its beautifully made and everything about it looks like something id trust running my oil with ☺
Just need to find somewhere to mount it the engine bay but im sure that’ll be easy enough.