DeadNation
Member
where did you get that front splitter mate? looks so clean!
Sidewayzz S14 Build "The Revival"
Sidewayzz
Member
While the subframe was out I decided to purchase some GK Tech drop knuckles to complete the rear end puzzle
Since I'm running a r33 gts25t rear brake setup all the drum set up had to be removed and transferred to the new knuckles with the R32 GTR hubs
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of this process as my phone had died
Next up it was time to fit the knuckle to the subframe, this is usually a pretty easy job but I soon found out it wasn't as easy as i thought. Since GK Tech have changed the geometry, the suspension pickup points have changed from factory as well. This means it's like a jig saw puzzle fitting it to the subframe.
The traction arm pickup is very close to the brake calliper tabs as you can see in the picture, for a while I struggled to figure out how to get the nut in there.
Since the pillow balls swivel you have to remove the traction arm from the subframe, swivel the pillow ball so you can slide the bolt through and get the nut on, and then put the subframe side on.
Next up it was time to put the beefy GTR axles in, the two axles are different lengths, the longer one goes on the right (drivers side) and the shorter one goes on the left (passanger side)
Time to put the subframe again for the last time (I hope)
Got it all in and damn the hub looked close to the guard. I decided to put a wheel on and see how much the drop knuckles had lowered the car
Here's the result, nearly tucking still jacked up and sitting hard on the wheels lip when on the ground, might need to raise it a few mm
Al though I really liked my Work S1R the fronts were lacking negative offset to they were sold, and new pair ordered with better size and offset. The previous setup was a 18x9 +15 with a 30mm spacer on a 205/35/18, these new ones are 18x9.5 0p and run 15mm spacers on a 215/3518
For a while now I've been trying to track down a mint S15 dash. Finally after some searching I found one around an hour away from me. It was a complete setup so it was hard to pass so I took the trip up north next weekend
Here's the difference between s14 and s15 dash if you're not too familiar with them
Time to test fit
Since the S15 dash is a 2 piece setup it's a breeze to fit, especially around the steering column. Here's what the first test fit looked like, looks WAY nicer in my opinion
As some of you may know it's not a simple bolt on thing, the mounting points are a bit off and brackets will need to be made. The main problem is door cards, S14 ones do not fit because the door can't close, the door cards hit the vent area, these will need to be modified later on. S15 ones also dont fit, they're longer and the door handle is in a different position
The callipers were still in the factory colour, so I decided to get them painted the same colour as the engine bay and roll cage. Also picked up a second pair to run a twin calliper setup soon
The steering rack bushes were never changed in my ownership, it was time to get some new ones so I got some super pro ones off the driftworks store, here's some pics of old vs new, these should reduce the slop
Job complete
Since I'm running a r33 gts25t rear brake setup all the drum set up had to be removed and transferred to the new knuckles with the R32 GTR hubs
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of this process as my phone had died
Next up it was time to fit the knuckle to the subframe, this is usually a pretty easy job but I soon found out it wasn't as easy as i thought. Since GK Tech have changed the geometry, the suspension pickup points have changed from factory as well. This means it's like a jig saw puzzle fitting it to the subframe.
The traction arm pickup is very close to the brake calliper tabs as you can see in the picture, for a while I struggled to figure out how to get the nut in there.
Since the pillow balls swivel you have to remove the traction arm from the subframe, swivel the pillow ball so you can slide the bolt through and get the nut on, and then put the subframe side on.
Next up it was time to put the beefy GTR axles in, the two axles are different lengths, the longer one goes on the right (drivers side) and the shorter one goes on the left (passanger side)
Time to put the subframe again for the last time (I hope)
Got it all in and damn the hub looked close to the guard. I decided to put a wheel on and see how much the drop knuckles had lowered the car
Here's the result, nearly tucking still jacked up and sitting hard on the wheels lip when on the ground, might need to raise it a few mm
Al though I really liked my Work S1R the fronts were lacking negative offset to they were sold, and new pair ordered with better size and offset. The previous setup was a 18x9 +15 with a 30mm spacer on a 205/35/18, these new ones are 18x9.5 0p and run 15mm spacers on a 215/3518
For a while now I've been trying to track down a mint S15 dash. Finally after some searching I found one around an hour away from me. It was a complete setup so it was hard to pass so I took the trip up north next weekend
Here's the difference between s14 and s15 dash if you're not too familiar with them
Time to test fit
Since the S15 dash is a 2 piece setup it's a breeze to fit, especially around the steering column. Here's what the first test fit looked like, looks WAY nicer in my opinion
As some of you may know it's not a simple bolt on thing, the mounting points are a bit off and brackets will need to be made. The main problem is door cards, S14 ones do not fit because the door can't close, the door cards hit the vent area, these will need to be modified later on. S15 ones also dont fit, they're longer and the door handle is in a different position
The callipers were still in the factory colour, so I decided to get them painted the same colour as the engine bay and roll cage. Also picked up a second pair to run a twin calliper setup soon
The steering rack bushes were never changed in my ownership, it was time to get some new ones so I got some super pro ones off the driftworks store, here's some pics of old vs new, these should reduce the slop
Job complete
Sidewayzz
Member
Next up, The heart of this thing
For this build I wanted to make the engine stronger to 1) make more power and 2) be more reliable.
I went down to my tuner Soichi from ST Hitec to discuss the upgrade options. At first I was looking at forged Pistons, Conrod and some camshafts. I got soichi to price me up some forged bottom end components and we quickly came to realize that going another option would be best. It was time to setup the game and go 2.2! After some discussing the decision was made to order a Tomei 2.2L stroker kit from Japan.
This includes forged Pistons, forged Conrod and a forged crankshaft. Exciting stuff
To save on shipping on customs charges we decided to order the head stuff as well. Once again Tomei was the choice. We ended up getting Tomei pro cams (solid type), solid lifters, valve springs, titanium retainers and oversized valves
Tomei gear arrived in around 2 weeks and it was time to start stripping the SR20
Engine disassembly:
First up was the intake plenum's turn, this is a 2 piece design as some of you may know. I won't into much detail on removal as its pretty simple stuff.
I had already removed the exhaust manifold, and injectors to sell earlier, the rest was still un touched so it was time to get stuck into it
Camshafts next, rotate the crankshaft to tdc at #1 piston, to see if this is correct there is markers on the pulley, it will be the 2nd one to the left, Loosen cam sprocket bolts, these are a 25 and 24mm I'm pretty sure. Remove the cam chain tensioner, remove chain guide and sprocket bolts you loosened earlier. Evenly undo the cam cap bolts, I did it in 3 steps. Remove cams
Head removal, im using ARP head studs and since they use imperial I had to go out and buy the right one. ARP use a 12 point 1/2 imperial socket for the head studs. These are torqued on quite tight so you may need a big breaker bar with some good leverage. I ended up using my jack pole.
Make sure you undo these bolts in the right sequence otherwise you can wrap your head, once again these need to be loosened in stages, I did around 3-4.
Remove like this
Head off
So far so good, although I'm not going to being using much of the factory stuff everything seems to be in good order
Part 2 up tomorrow!
For this build I wanted to make the engine stronger to 1) make more power and 2) be more reliable.
I went down to my tuner Soichi from ST Hitec to discuss the upgrade options. At first I was looking at forged Pistons, Conrod and some camshafts. I got soichi to price me up some forged bottom end components and we quickly came to realize that going another option would be best. It was time to setup the game and go 2.2! After some discussing the decision was made to order a Tomei 2.2L stroker kit from Japan.
This includes forged Pistons, forged Conrod and a forged crankshaft. Exciting stuff
To save on shipping on customs charges we decided to order the head stuff as well. Once again Tomei was the choice. We ended up getting Tomei pro cams (solid type), solid lifters, valve springs, titanium retainers and oversized valves
Tomei gear arrived in around 2 weeks and it was time to start stripping the SR20
Engine disassembly:
First up was the intake plenum's turn, this is a 2 piece design as some of you may know. I won't into much detail on removal as its pretty simple stuff.
I had already removed the exhaust manifold, and injectors to sell earlier, the rest was still un touched so it was time to get stuck into it
Camshafts next, rotate the crankshaft to tdc at #1 piston, to see if this is correct there is markers on the pulley, it will be the 2nd one to the left, Loosen cam sprocket bolts, these are a 25 and 24mm I'm pretty sure. Remove the cam chain tensioner, remove chain guide and sprocket bolts you loosened earlier. Evenly undo the cam cap bolts, I did it in 3 steps. Remove cams
Head removal, im using ARP head studs and since they use imperial I had to go out and buy the right one. ARP use a 12 point 1/2 imperial socket for the head studs. These are torqued on quite tight so you may need a big breaker bar with some good leverage. I ended up using my jack pole.
Make sure you undo these bolts in the right sequence otherwise you can wrap your head, once again these need to be loosened in stages, I did around 3-4.
Remove like this
Head off
So far so good, although I'm not going to being using much of the factory stuff everything seems to be in good order
Part 2 up tomorrow!
Sidewayzz
Member
Hello block.. She's pretty dirty haha
Headgasket off and Head studs out
Let's turn it over and get this greddy sump off
Sump off, oil pickup etc off
Undo oil pump bolts and remove
Removed main bearing beam, Loosen in the same sequence as the head, Loosen in 2-3 steps
Remove Main caps
Undo rod bolts and remove connecting rods
Carefully remove Pistons and rods as one, lift out crank and remove bearings
Removed oil jets
All looking good
bores seem to be good, blocks just a bit dirty. Time for a clean
Headgasket off and Head studs out
Let's turn it over and get this greddy sump off
Sump off, oil pickup etc off
Undo oil pump bolts and remove
Removed main bearing beam, Loosen in the same sequence as the head, Loosen in 2-3 steps
Remove Main caps
Undo rod bolts and remove connecting rods
Carefully remove Pistons and rods as one, lift out crank and remove bearings
Removed oil jets
All looking good
bores seem to be good, blocks just a bit dirty. Time for a clean 
counteract
-o=me
Amazing build thread. Love how the car looks and even more so now it's going stroker.
I also had an S15 dash at one point, never finished it but got this far:
I managed to use the original dash brackets from the S14 dash with some holes drilled in them and also kinda flexed the sides of the dash out a bit to fit. People say that they fit better in 13s but tbh I thought it fitted the S14 so snug. I had no idea what to do about doorcards though!
Good luck with the rest of this man, it's going to be amazing.
I also had an S15 dash at one point, never finished it but got this far:
I managed to use the original dash brackets from the S14 dash with some holes drilled in them and also kinda flexed the sides of the dash out a bit to fit. People say that they fit better in 13s but tbh I thought it fitted the S14 so snug. I had no idea what to do about doorcards though!
Good luck with the rest of this man, it's going to be amazing.
Sidewayzz
Member
No update for about 4 months, don't worry I haven't given up, im still hard at it! 
I ordered a few bits for the rebuild, Got a full OEM Nissan gasket kit and new oil pump/ front cover
The block was going to get sleeved and head get ported and polished. My choice for the machine work was Mazworx, being based half way around the world I knew this was a bit of a hassle but their work speaks for itself and they were a great bunch of people to deal with
It was time to pack up the head, block and parts to send over to Florida
Just speaking the truth
While the bits were off for machining I saw some genuine chargespeed overfenders pop up for sale, they were off the C's garage S14 drift car. I liked this style alot but they cost quite a lot to import being quite large. I chose to quickly snap them up, although I'll keep stock body for now I'll keep them for a later date
Went along to pick them up, plenty of inspiration around here
Did a quick test fit, they go quite nicely with the stock body lines
Some new suspension bits came up from Parts Shop Max, they had a 2015 RLCA and Camber arms and I couldn't stand having the old ones so they were sold
I picked up the new 2015 RLCA and RUCA
New vs old RUCA
Old vs new RLCA
Installed
I think I can tick suspension off the box now
Engine updates coming shortly
I ordered a few bits for the rebuild, Got a full OEM Nissan gasket kit and new oil pump/ front cover
The block was going to get sleeved and head get ported and polished. My choice for the machine work was Mazworx, being based half way around the world I knew this was a bit of a hassle but their work speaks for itself and they were a great bunch of people to deal with
It was time to pack up the head, block and parts to send over to Florida
Just speaking the truth
While the bits were off for machining I saw some genuine chargespeed overfenders pop up for sale, they were off the C's garage S14 drift car. I liked this style alot but they cost quite a lot to import being quite large. I chose to quickly snap them up, although I'll keep stock body for now I'll keep them for a later date
Went along to pick them up, plenty of inspiration around here
Did a quick test fit, they go quite nicely with the stock body lines
Some new suspension bits came up from Parts Shop Max, they had a 2015 RLCA and Camber arms and I couldn't stand having the old ones so they were sold
I picked up the new 2015 RLCA and RUCA
New vs old RUCA
Old vs new RLCA
Installed
I think I can tick suspension off the box now
Engine updates coming shortly
B
Bullett
Guest
Wow this is real badass
Sidewayzz
Member
Time to build the engine
Couple of bits to clean, greddy sump, upper oil pan, and some other bits for the rebuild
This gasket stripper worked a charm
Bit better, needs more elbow grease haha
Head and block were back from Mazworx
The head had recieved stage 2 porting and polishing and a few other bits done, I won't go into the full extent of this
Intake before:
After:
Exhaust before:
After:
The block had darton sleeves installed and a few other bits done for some of the new hardware to work
My bearings of choice was Nismo
Nissan oil pickup
Nissan water pump
Nissan vct sprocket
Ati super damper
Apex headgasket
Genuine Nissan cam chain kit
Mazworx cam chain tensioner
Now I had everything needed to assemble the long block it was time to build this thing
Couple of bits to clean, greddy sump, upper oil pan, and some other bits for the rebuild
This gasket stripper worked a charm
Bit better, needs more elbow grease haha
Head and block were back from Mazworx
The head had recieved stage 2 porting and polishing and a few other bits done, I won't go into the full extent of this
Intake before:
After:
Exhaust before:
After:
The block had darton sleeves installed and a few other bits done for some of the new hardware to work
My bearings of choice was Nismo
Nissan oil pickup
Nissan water pump
Nissan vct sprocket
Ati super damper
Apex headgasket
Genuine Nissan cam chain kit
Mazworx cam chain tensioner
Now I had everything needed to assemble the long block it was time to build this thing
Sidewayzz
Member
All loaded up ready to build
Realized I was missing one bit to complete the short block so some acl thrust washers were ordered
Bearings in, main studs and oil squriters/jets installed
2.2 stroker crank and main caps in
Chain, crank sprocket, key, bolts etc on
Pistons and rods assembled and installed
Girdle torqued down
Oil pickup, baffle plate installed
Front cover/ oil pump on
Headstuds in and headgasket on
Heads turn
Vavles, lifters, rockers, cams all in,
Rocker cover on (yes that is my rocker cover haha) Ben at GT Refinishers did this for me, I was not told a thing about this, the only thing I was informed about was that he'll be using pastel colours, the rest was a secret. It ended up with something pretty unique and I actully like it
Excuse the dirty water inlet, that'll be replaced
Long block complete. Intake and exhaust side updates coming shortly
Realized I was missing one bit to complete the short block so some acl thrust washers were ordered
Bearings in, main studs and oil squriters/jets installed
2.2 stroker crank and main caps in
Chain, crank sprocket, key, bolts etc on
Pistons and rods assembled and installed
Girdle torqued down
Oil pickup, baffle plate installed
Front cover/ oil pump on
Headstuds in and headgasket on
Heads turn
Vavles, lifters, rockers, cams all in,
Rocker cover on (yes that is my rocker cover haha) Ben at GT Refinishers did this for me, I was not told a thing about this, the only thing I was informed about was that he'll be using pastel colours, the rest was a secret. It ended up with something pretty unique and I actully like it
Excuse the dirty water inlet, that'll be replaced
Long block complete. Intake and exhaust side updates coming shortly
Sidewayzz
Member
Happy New Year everyone!
Since it was a long block now it was time to bolt on the intake and exhaust sides.
For the intake I decided to go with a hypertune manifold along with fuel rail and throttle body.
What a beauty.
Pure porn!
A look inside.
Fuel rail.
Throttle body.
Intake looking right at home.
Exhaust manifold came back from coating along with the turbo exhaust housing.
With the exhaust manifold I decided to go with a twin scroll option, this is made by a local company here in NZ called Sinco Customs.
Turbo oil and water lines arrived, supplied by Mazworx.
Turbo also arrived. I went for a Garrett GTX3071r, this should be quite responsive and meet my power goals.. Well, for now haha.
This wasn't my first turbo choice. I had previously bought the Garrett GTX3067r. The only reason i changed from the GTX3067r to the GTX3071r was because of the power rating. GTX3067r maxes about 500hp and GTX3071r is about 560hp.
GTX3067r vs GTX3071r.
Turbo exhaust housing was also changed from open to twin scroll/ split pulse.
Since it was a long block now it was time to bolt on the intake and exhaust sides.
For the intake I decided to go with a hypertune manifold along with fuel rail and throttle body.
What a beauty.
Pure porn!
A look inside.
Fuel rail.
Throttle body.
Intake looking right at home.
Exhaust manifold came back from coating along with the turbo exhaust housing.
With the exhaust manifold I decided to go with a twin scroll option, this is made by a local company here in NZ called Sinco Customs.
Turbo oil and water lines arrived, supplied by Mazworx.
Turbo also arrived. I went for a Garrett GTX3071r, this should be quite responsive and meet my power goals.. Well, for now haha.
This wasn't my first turbo choice. I had previously bought the Garrett GTX3067r. The only reason i changed from the GTX3067r to the GTX3071r was because of the power rating. GTX3067r maxes about 500hp and GTX3071r is about 560hp.
GTX3067r vs GTX3071r.
Turbo exhaust housing was also changed from open to twin scroll/ split pulse.
