SR Gearbox Solution ??

Mr Bizzle said:
It could be a number of things tbh.
Fitting uprated engine & gearbox mounts is a good call either way. Best bet in my opinion is to get Tappin to mill you up some solid bushes and just solid mount the engine to the cross member. If you give him a fucked box mount he'll be able to sort you something out there too. Otherwise, the Driftworks shop sell them i think?

Oil wise, i use comma 85w - 140.
EP85-140.gif
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Cool cool, well it just so happens that iam also a cnc engineer so I will be able to knock up my own bushes :) I was gonna make a better gearbox mount anyways and doing it all solid makes life a darn site easier.

Thanks for the oil heads up, I'll hunt some down :thumbs:
 
swiftmini said:
Cool cool, well it just so happens that iam also a cnc engineer so I will be able to knock up my own bushes :) I was gonna make a better gearbox mount anyways and doing it all solid makes life a darn site easier.

Thanks for the oil heads up, I'll hunt some down :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Just be aware that solid mounting the lot will give you a fair amount of engine noise through the chassis. If your doing it yourself, spin up some ally/stainless bushes and pack it with a 3-5mm plastic spacer at either end to reduce transmission noise.
 
lol i dont believe in solid mounting everything!!! some things need to have some slack to absorb the torque!! but just my opinion lol
 
Mr Bizzle said:
It could be a number of things tbh.
Fitting uprated engine & gearbox mounts is a good call either way. Best bet in my opinion is to get Tappin to mill you up some solid bushes and just solid mount the engine to the cross member. If you give him a fucked box mount he'll be able to sort you something out there too. Otherwise, the Driftworks shop sell them i think?

Oil wise, i use comma 85w - 140.
EP85-140.gif
Click to expand...



Do you use it in your diff or in the gearbox, or both? What about the redline thing?
:smash:
 
Ádik said:
Do you use it in your diff or in the gearbox, or both? What about the redline thing?
:smash:
Click to expand...

Depends what diff you have. If it's just a welder you could throw old nescafe in it and it probably wouldn't make much difference. If it's a propper mechanical locker then it's as per the manufacturers instructions (and it's important to stick to them)

Im sugesting you use this in your gearbox.

I have used redline high impact stuff and it lasted about the same time as the comma 85w 170.

The comma stuff is so thick that even when warm it doesn't slosh around the bottom of the box, but it does pickup nicely on the gears.
 
but done wine when its a little harder to select gears as thick oil messes with selector speed but would rather strggle to ge it in gear a little extra than grab a handful of brokeness
 
yeah, it's also worth making sure that you warm the gearbox up before clutch kicking the shit out of it. IE: Don't start the car and imediatly clutch kick it in 3rd.
 
Have you fella,s tried cryogenically freezing your gearboxes. As it is a reverse forging process that strengthens all metal materials, except magnesium.
It reduces friction wear by up to 35%. This method is used by professional drag racers, one drag racer in particular was going through 4-5 boxes per season, then he used this process and he only uses 2. Also F1 racing teams use this for engine internals and aircraft manufactures use it for forging their helicopter rotor gears. Its scientifically proven to work on gearboxes and its cheapo maximo too. One gear box was tested using this process and that was the weak gearbox'ed Pulsar Gtir, they got a stock box to withstand 450 BHP on standard gears.:thumbs:
 
retrodan said:
lol i dont believe in solid mounting everything!!! some things need to have some slack to absorb the torque!! but just my opinion lol
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Neither do I either usually, I had solid mounted and rose jointes everything on my mini and it was savage, but iam gonna trust the mongaloid on this one.

@ bizzle, yeah I realise there will be more noise, tbh I don't mind as long as it isn't broken noises like my old diff :wack:
 
Mr Bizzle said:
Depends what diff you have. If it's just a welder you could throw old nescafe in it and it probably wouldn't make much difference. If it's a propper mechanical locker then it's as per the manufacturers instructions (and it's important to stick to them)

Im sugesting you use this in your gearbox.

I have used redline high impact stuff and it lasted about the same time as the comma 85w 170.

The comma stuff is so thick that even when warm it doesn't slosh around the bottom of the box, but it does pickup nicely on the gears.
Click to expand...


Of course, its a welded one...i also take care of it as it would be an lsd, i dont want to replace it in every month....so i think this oil would be good for my diff too, as it is so thick.
Bizzle, what is your opinion about this freezing subject?
 
Ádik said:
Bizzle, what is your opinion about this freezing subject?
Click to expand...
Honestly i can't really see it making a big difference to 3rd gear in the SR box. Considering the short lifespan and carnage that i have seen at 350hp. The freezing process would need to strengthen the gear at least 70-80% to make a noticable difference. I can't really see that happening. I guess the same is true with the RB box. Then you still have the problem with lubrication and bearings.

By the time you have had the box rebuilt. Used the correct centre plate, fitted new bearings and put the gear it's self through the freezing process. The gain for the cost isn't massivly good value for money when you consider that you'll still blow the box 3 or 4 times a season. If each rebuild costs you 12 hours and a new set of bearings at £150 a time and a new second hand box and a treated 3rd gear, plus the time it takes you to actually remove and fit the box. By the time your on the 3rd box you'll be wishing you'd just done a T56 conversion in the first place and had the reliability.

If your compeating and you blow the box during morning practice then your loosing 2-3 hours of practice time. Which makes a HUGE difference. If you blow it during qualifying, the top 16 or anywhere after - that's you out of the comp.

If your doing demo's a blown box is putting you out of action and each time you miss one, your cutting down your potential publicity.

If your just having fun at a practice day, a blown box will finish most peoples day. So that's fun, laughs and adrenaline missed out on (not to mention money wasted)

So in reality - if upgrading the box to a T56 costs £2000 all in. It'll pay for it's self in reliability alone.
 
But what about the fact, that t56 bokes are slow as snail in gear changing? Do you have this conversion? What is your opinion about tremec TKO 800? Maybe cheaper, new and can handle the same.....are the bellhousings interchangable between these two?
 
I don't know anything about the TKO 800. Not heard of that one.
You can use a solid or short shifter in the T56 which helps im told. Or there are a massive choice of aftermarket sets and parts.
 
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