Team Launch Holset Power Project

So today was a good day, GOT THE THING RUNNING!

Done a final fit of the turbo and plumbed everything up. Had to stick the old afm on as its still running on the old map with 555s. I will change it before it goes to Greg.

Fitted a new oil pressure gauge, then cranked it over to get the pressure up. Had to wire a direct 12v feed to the gauge as it goes off normally on the old stereo 12v feed when cranking.
Took about 20 secs of cranking to get some pressure but then it shot to 3 bar. Chucked some fuel in and went for the start.
Started straight up with good oil pressure.
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Also had to extended my standard modded arms as my Powered by max ones are delayed. Extended 40mm.
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Ciao from Italy!
I've just read all the thread...wow......really amazing job! Everything made by yourself....respect man, respect! :D
A big ciao from Italy
Sorry for my poor english ;)
Arian
:thumbs:
 
Its booked in with Greg for the 25th of May.
Just sorting lots of little bits. Had a pain getting the vbands to seal. Resorted to making some copper gaskets. Might try so flexible graphite sheet if i can get hold of some.

Need to run it in a bit and change the injectors to the 740s before its goes to Greg.
 
I don't want much more than 400 at the moment cause it will just kill the box. 740s are fine for what I want. Yeah think the cowl is in the shed I'll toss it on.
 
V bands can be a pain I used walker exhaust putty and that shit is good so good I'll never buy a walker exhaust....any company that can develop a putty that good must surely make shite exhaust
 
Sorry been busy with work. Had a few problems to say the least. The engine had a knocking noise.
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/146606-knocking-noise-after-rebuild.html
Knocking noise after rebuild - SXOC Bulletin Board

So basically i ended up taking the car to a local race engine builder, who advised me to look at the bottom end. The next day the engine came back out and i stripped it. Couldn't find much. I took the short motor up to the engine guy so mic it up and possibly rebuild the bottom end. So i may need a new crank and bearings depending on what he says.

Another big change of plan is that i'm having major second thoughts on the turbo. After testing it up the road theres not much in the way of boost till around 5k. Its not relly ideal. I know it may improve once mapped but its still very laggy.
The title and the idea of the project may now have to change as i'm looking at a GT3071r twin scroll.

basically this setup
Full-Race Motorsports

Fullrace say its quicker spooling than a 2871r.
and a easy 450hp
But going to need to find some cash as there about 1K.

So the HX35 is up for sale if anybody is intressted lol.

But my first job is to get the motor running properly.
 
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Well no update for ages as iv been working away and Glasto.

The project has taking a u-turn making the title pretty irrelevant. The HX35 is gone. Sold! I wasn't happy with the lag and couldn't be assed to piss about with housings.
I have decided after chatting with Greg to go for a GT3071r with a .78ar twin scroll housing.


GT3071R%203.jpg


ATP-HSG-080_450-1.jpg


From research these on the Full Race manifold will hit full boost by 4000rpm.
Full race say it spools like a GT2871r, but is capable of 450hp.
Thats win in my book!

(from full race website)
sr20dyno1.jpg

SR20DET Dyno Comparison of Full-Race Twinscroll GT3071R .78 A/R (Blue Line) vs. Single Scroll GT2871R .64 A/R (Red Line). AFR was 11.5 and dyno was done in 4th gear. 84 degrees with about 50 percent humidity. Both runs were about 19 PSI. Rom tuning by RS Enthalpy

The blue line shows the twinscroll system spooling faster, building boost earlier and producing more power than the smaller, bottom mounted 2871R. Additionally the new setup feels much faster and more responsive without making any compromises.


As for the engine. Its still at the race engine shop, the guy has measured the bottom end and says it checks out fine. The only thing he could find was the bores were a little tight. ( around 2 thou clearance) so he is honing/boring it out correctly. Then i will rebuild it going over it with a fine tooth comb and see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't i'm just going to fucking run it till something goes.

Heres some photos before i took it the the race engine shop.

Rod 1
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Rod 2
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Rod 3
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Rod 4
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Piston1
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Piston2
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Piston 3
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Piston4
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Bores
1
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2
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3
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4
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Journals
1
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2
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3
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4
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Heres a couple of pics of the setup before i striped it.
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I will be keeping the bonnet exit, as the manifold is staying the same.
(dont think the washer jet will last long haha!)
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Weather proof!
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Ok neglected this thread so to update,

Ben broke his car for bits and sold the hx30 setup to Mitch. His engine suffered compression loss on one of the cylinders.

I sold the Hx35 and got my self a Gt3071r twinscroll .82ar, rebuilt the engine again (nothing found wrong), fitted the turbo and took it to gregs to be mapped.

The engine is still rattling but i'm chossing to ignore it and see if it lasts. At Protuner in the final stages of mapped the diff blew, shearing the pinon gear of its teeth. Calling an early finish to the mapping. After replacing the diff (with what turned out to be equally as shagged auto diff) i returned to Gregs to finish the tune.

The turbo is super responsive, both myself and Greg where impressed with the setup.

So here is thefinal spec and results

Car: s14a

Spec:

Cp pistons +0.5 8.5:1 CR
Apex Rods
ACL race bearings
ARP Head studs
Comectic 1.6mm MLS
Stock Head and Cams
RAS kit
NGK grade 8 plugs
Full Race Twin Scroll Manifold
GT3071r T3 divided .82ar housing
Tial v44 Wastegate

Apexi Air filter
Z32 MAf
Nismo 740cc
Sard FPR
225lph walbro
Gizzmo Boost controller (1.5Bar)
Nistune ecu (mapped at ProTuner)

Figures: 428 hp / 401ftlb

Horsepower and Torque
Powertorque.jpg


Boost and AFRs
Boostafr.jpg


(The hp figure on this graph is whp)( small boost spike that i should be able to sort with some re plumbing and the solenoid)



IMG_0136.jpg


IMG_0139-1.jpg


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