CA18DET preservation society

I think he means the engine in general.

Compression test and a leakdown test to check you've not fucked it over.
Then like Chunky Nugget suggested.

If you've wrecked te headgasket or warped the head then fixing an airlock is the least of your worries.
 
Doonits said:
After a few hours messing with it, finally found a solution to that problem which created a new problem. I'm starting to get frustrated now. I ended up going all out with the car, drifting around and doing a few burnouts ( not too hard ) which caused the car to start working properly again, RPMs dropped but around 50-100 at maximum and rarely, which is normal. I reckon it was one of the spark plugs which wasn't working, causing it to pop, misfire and have a struggle with running.

New problem - Car tends to overheat when idling on spot. It almost caught on fire, I freaked out. I went into the garage and left the car cooling down after 3 cooling laps infront of the garage, came back outside in like three minutes and there was smoke everywhere, the coolant was boiling and the green coolant liquid was all over the engine bay. Only way to cool it down was by driving - what could cause this?
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Is the fan belt still on? Check the alternator isn't seized as this would cause running issues. Sounds like a boost leak or MAF problem though. If it had a misfire it wouldn't idle at 1400.
 
Another one for you CA heads, car has trouble starting once up to temperature? Will eventually start after a few seconds if I open the throttle a teeny bit and once started my throttle position will rev it up to about 2k, any ideas? Fitting a new fuel pump this weekend but other than that is there anything else I could look in to?
 
OllieEN said:
Another one for you CA heads, car has trouble starting once up to temperature? Will eventually start after a few seconds if I open the throttle a teeny bit and once started my throttle position will rev it up to about 2k, any ideas? Fitting a new fuel pump this weekend but other than that is there anything else I could look in to?
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Same. It starts close to okay ( quite bad lol ) when cold, when it's warm it barely starts.
 
Fitting engine into ford Capri.

Got a grey plug that sits near the starter motor feed wires.
7 wires- along bottom: green/white, green/orange, yellow/White, yellow/black, along top: green, space, white/red, yellow/green.

I have a length of 3 core used from a friends sierra conversion with the correct plug on the end. earth coloured wire going to the yellow/white wire and a black coloured wire going to the White/red wire. Can someone please confirm that the yellow/white wire needs an earth and the White/red needs live. And tell me if its switched live from anywhere. Thanks

Also, where does the black wire with the ring terminal on it go from the alternator? Is that also an earth?
 
I have a yellow/white wire coming off a sensor next to my oil filter. It goes into a grey plug. I haven't got the other plug or wiring, where does this yellow/white wire go to? Thanks
 
If its next to the filter probably the oil pressure switch dude. Knock sensor is green with a round plug, pressure is 2 pin next to the filter.
 
Hey guys, had an oil change and then a week later the oil light started very occasionally flickered once or twice when cold, now its constantly/ flickering when revs drop and there's constant tapping from the top end. I think the oil pumps on the way out and not starving the head? Nissan being Nissan want £750 to fix, im 20 mins from Horsham Dev and waiting for a call back with a quote but I need this sorting asap! Could possible do it myself but not sure how long it'll take?
 
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