CA18DET preservation society
- Thread starter dori_wey
- Start date
Retro - Slide
Member
How much are you looking at for a full CA18DET engine and transmission now days? 
Like the look of that ca, what's the plans for it? Pics and specs.
Mines coming along Nicely now been collecting parts. Have 260 pro cams some 750cc injectors will be a top mounted TD05-18g, just waiting on getting the manifold back and I'll get to work with it, got all the stainless I need for down pipe and that. Will get some pics up soon. Then save for mapping and get to some more practice days.
Fyi mines always ran quite hot suppose motorway driving oil at 85/90 driven in anger 120/130. That's with a big rad. Got a oil cooler now hopefully knock that down a bit.
Mines coming along Nicely now been collecting parts. Have 260 pro cams some 750cc injectors will be a top mounted TD05-18g, just waiting on getting the manifold back and I'll get to work with it, got all the stainless I need for down pipe and that. Will get some pics up soon. Then save for mapping and get to some more practice days.
Fyi mines always ran quite hot suppose motorway driving oil at 85/90 driven in anger 120/130. That's with a big rad. Got a oil cooler now hopefully knock that down a bit.
r3k1355
Well-Known Member
How much are you looking at for a full CA18DET engine and transmission now days?
Same price as you always was really.
The engines havn't got any 'better' with age, they'll always be second fiddle to the SR20 and the price reflects that.
You'll always get some chancers asking silly money tho, but even the newest CA engine is going to be 20 years old now.
Hello, I was pointed to post here with my recent problem on my CA18DET.
My car had a 2860RS put on at a workshop ( professional ), and now it doesn't idle very well. The RPMs drop on cold as seen on this video and when the car is warm the RPMs can drop about 400 to -600-, almost stalling the car, but it doesn't stall it just roughly runs for a few seconds and then goes back up.
Here's the video. **THIS IS A COLD ENGINE RPM DROP**
My car had a 2860RS put on at a workshop ( professional ), and now it doesn't idle very well. The RPMs drop on cold as seen on this video and when the car is warm the RPMs can drop about 400 to -600-, almost stalling the car, but it doesn't stall it just roughly runs for a few seconds and then goes back up.
Here's the video. **THIS IS A COLD ENGINE RPM DROP**
It used to be smooth and stay at a certain spot. Although when the car is warm the RPMs drop like that up to 600, but when you press gas when driving and let the RPMs go over 2000 you're good to go as it's smooth after 2000.
johnny blaze
New Member
Hey man ive had similar issues. Try cleaning AFM electrode thingies with a small paintbrush. I used nail polish remover.
They get all dirty after time. If you look through a magnifing glass you will see.
They get all dirty after time. If you look through a magnifing glass you will see.
r3k1355
Well-Known Member
Don't do that!!!
The sensor wire is quite sensitive, you don't want to risk any damage.
Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner, you can get it from places like maplin. It'll clean the wire without causing any damage.
Oh damn, good I didn't do that yet
Any other things to try when I'll go work on it on the weekend?
r3k1355
Well-Known Member
What spec are you running with that turbo?
It could be a vac/boost leak somewhere, split hose or something.
You could check/clean the idle valve (I think I remember dismantling one of the valves and re-assembling on my engine)
This tells you the info to check the various bits of the ignition system
https://mega.co.nz/#!ZJohQQbD!CIgImhYENUHaEGPx_3D_1FIg9v9YrL_L7z6Gu7wHneA
It could be a vac/boost leak somewhere, split hose or something.
You could check/clean the idle valve (I think I remember dismantling one of the valves and re-assembling on my engine)
This tells you the info to check the various bits of the ignition system
https://mega.co.nz/#!ZJohQQbD!CIgImhYENUHaEGPx_3D_1FIg9v9YrL_L7z6Gu7wHneA
Doubt it hard that it's a leak of some kind since the fabrication of the piping etc. was done by a professional company in my city and if it was a leak, it'd run quite bad past 2000 RPM also. It's something with idle / ignition, I bet. I'll check the DL link out and I'll try cleaning the idle valve
After a few hours messing with it, finally found a solution to that problem which created a new problem. I'm starting to get frustrated now. I ended up going all out with the car, drifting around and doing a few burnouts ( not too hard ) which caused the car to start working properly again, RPMs dropped but around 50-100 at maximum and rarely, which is normal. I reckon it was one of the spark plugs which wasn't working, causing it to pop, misfire and have a struggle with running.
New problem - Car tends to overheat when idling on spot. It almost caught on fire, I freaked out. I went into the garage and left the car cooling down after 3 cooling laps infront of the garage, came back outside in like three minutes and there was smoke everywhere, the coolant was boiling and the green coolant liquid was all over the engine bay. Only way to cool it down was by driving - what could cause this?
New problem - Car tends to overheat when idling on spot. It almost caught on fire, I freaked out. I went into the garage and left the car cooling down after 3 cooling laps infront of the garage, came back outside in like three minutes and there was smoke everywhere, the coolant was boiling and the green coolant liquid was all over the engine bay. Only way to cool it down was by driving - what could cause this?
Chunky Nugget
honkeytits!!
Air in system, Blocked rad, jammed stat, check these first dude. check top and bottom hose see what temp difference is, go from there.
Just light smoke coming out on start up and when standing on spot. It's really thin smoke coming out from the exhaust but when I'm driving there's nothing so I reckon it's not about the headgasket. Probably smoking due to the cold weathers. (2-3 degrees celsius :s )