do's and donts of the legend sr20det

Dont do what a guy did in town here the other day,he had a fully built sr20 fully forged with crazy headwork 272 12mm lift cams etc but with only a 2871r .63 he took it to diesel & turbocharger services (the best) to get tuned and after fixing a million air leaks and replacing cheap shit parts like the bov etc mike stoped tuning as he found a huge amount of back pressure forming due to the efficiency of the motor with all the headwork and small size of the turbo. but instead of changing the turbo or evan just change the rear housing the owner took it to the worst tuner on the planet....i wount name names,this tuner added timing to control the massive boost spikes (lol worse thing u cud do on an sr) and eventually the back prssure caused the valves to stay open and you can gues what happend next...time for a new engine
 
what about my above spec (as is) with z32 afm (or rb20det i hear theres not much difference) 1 bar boost on the t28r,apexi safc and get it mapped on that??
 
Your setup with 1bar will be nice and balanced, although 1bar on a t28r on an SR20 is nearly maxing it, so it might not work for long ( it could, but it works at its limits).

rb20/z32 afm are a lot different.
rb20 ones will allow metering for 310(22680-02U00) or 350hp (22680-31U00). Z32 can meter up to 500hp(22680-30P00). there are many standard SR20 AFM, but most of the S14 ones are able to meter around 290hp. S13 SR20 AFM (22680-52F00 and 22680-52F01 ) are poo and can only meter around 210hp.

You cannot really map on an SAFC, it only tricks the ECU by altering the AFM signal. You may get correct AFR, but ignition will likely be incorrect.

An SAFC is useful when you already have a working map and you need slight adjustments to the fuel map. You still need a wideband AFR sensor and gauge anyway.

IMHO get your car dynoed to check if AFR and EGT are correct (or get some AFR / EGT sensors). If they are, up the boost to 1bar and check if they are still good. If so, dont mod anything and drive it. If AFR goes lean and EGT goes too high, it is time for a remap ... and while you are at it, you could relieve the stress from injectors and AFM by using bigger ones.

I personnally would not use a wet type air filter for reasons people dont agree with. Apexi makes nice and dry filters, i'd go for that as i dont like cleaning my AFM (and i dont care what K&N has to say about it, i have seen enough coated AFM not to use wet filters anymore, wether K&N says it is the users fault and not the filter or not )
Personnal choice again, same as the 1.4bar boost on an unopened engine. I am more the cautious type than the "do it and see what happens and then rebuild your engine". I would go for the 1.4bar if i get a paper from people who says it works with their name and the promise of paying for the repairs if it blows.
 
nice input cheers for advice really hope this thread is helping others aswel..

i want to run around 300 bhp safely and cost effective can anyone tell me what i need on top of whats already on my engine

thanks
 
Last edited:
Need : 1bar on the t28r and a mapping session would be enough.

You will be near the limits of the injectors, AFM and turbo so that might not be "safely", but it will be the more cost effective.

Safety always comes at a cost. If you can pay for that, then you will have safety...install the 5 sensors and alarms (or gauges with alarms), fit bigger injectors, bigger AFM, slightly bigger turbo and remap.

Or you could run the first configuration until turbo dies, then upgrade. But if injectors dies first, that will most likely kill the engine.
 
croustibat said:
Need : 1bar on the t28r and a mapping session would be enough.

You will be near the limits of the injectors, AFM and turbo so that might not be "safely", but it will be the more cost effective.

Safety always comes at a cost. If you can pay for that, then you will have safety...install the 5 sensors and alarms (or gauges with alarms), fit bigger injectors, bigger AFM, slightly bigger turbo and remap.

Or you could run the first configuration until turbo dies, then upgrade. But if injectors dies first, that will most likely kill the engine.
Click to expand...
What injector's would you recommend then for this setup? And what AFM too?

I'm hoping for 320bhp-ish and my "future/now" spec (so far) is... 740cc injectors, T28R, z32 AFM, Gizmo boost controller, Hdev manifold, Japspeed system...

(things in yellow I need to buy!) :smash:

:thumbs:
 
steve_fctuning said:
Mitto.. your comment made me smile... (yet another) I dont need to chase numbers dude as the engines make what it makes.. End of fella :)
Click to expand...

sorry steve.. but ive personally retuned your work.. shame i always get retunes really.. then again i havent built a huge reputation for big numbers and telling porkies. or melting engines for that matter..
 
to add..

many people think that 400hp is possible easily with the bolt on 2871r. with the 52 trim variant this is a tall order. (see compressor map from garrett).

the fact is that with a retuned stock ecu (nistune) or a powerfc there is question about the stability of the ignition timing at high rpm, much more so with former.. which means chasing the absolute last 10hp to achieve magic numbers means there is a highly diminished safety factor..
is it clever to tune a motor to achieve huge forum hp and then think its unlucky when you drop plugs or ringlands.
or is it better to tune a motor so that in 5yrs time you see the customer and they are still on the same engine.

bare in mind when drifting also that airflow is different to dyno. hence charge air temp can be greatly changed.. and with neither the nistune or powerfc allowing ign trim against IAT there is a much greater risk of detonation..
 
im down with anything that Steve S says tbh. he got me a realiable 300ft/lb's of a T25g. with barely anything done to the car at all.
 
martinb said:
to add..

many people think that 400hp is possible easily with the bolt on 2871r. with the 52 trim variant this is a tall order. (see compressor map from garrett).
Quote


and yes.. I agree, its Not its not easy, not without running silly boost levels and choking a turbo to death and after which is more excessive heat rather than efficient energy being input



QUOTE
bare in mind when drifting also that airflow is different to dyno. hence charge air temp can be greatly changed.. and with neither the nistune or powerfc allowing ign trim against IAT there is a much greater risk of detonation..
Click to expand...

Well thats clearly obvious, even to myself any my folk as we are in enough drift motas for many many years to be aware of that otherwise. I wouldnt be here otherwise and figs are for the pub.. they dont interest me in the slightest though they do others....


Anyway.. I thought this topic was about Rocker Arms Stoppers? or is someone changing the topic entirely ? :smash:

right where's my fags n rum n coke :D


it continues to amaze, even me sometimes when I can be even asked to be bothered, how certain folk like to diverse towards a different topic.. naming no names.. Politics...it does make me chuckle, and its ok if you got time for it.. but Im too busy for it .


:wack: Moving on !!!
:dw:


:smokin::smokin:
 
Last edited:
Daze said:
What injector's would you recommend then for this setup? And what AFM too?

I'm hoping for 320bhp-ish and my "future/now" spec (so far) is... 740cc injectors, T28R, z32 AFM, Gizmo boost controller, Hdev manifold, Japspeed system...

(things in yellow I need to buy!) :smash:

:thumbs:
Click to expand...

z32 for sure dude :nod:

my car @ 300bhp afm reading measure's 4.9V... max being 5V....
as your gonna go custom map... would be silly not to go z32 AFM for an extra £60-70 (look on ebay usa :wave: :D )

injectors- go 740 dude :nod:
again safety factor and a wider scoop for future when you go gt2871 .52 trim (drift car so want the spoll dont you :smash: :smokin:) when the t28r dies at 1.3bar you are running through it (to achieve 320bhp :thumbs:)

gizmo... meh.... unless you get it cheap... i would look at getting a avcr or prof 2 etc... dont worry about being scared of setting it up- your mapper will sort that for you :thumbs:

martinb said:
sorry steve.. but ive personally retuned your work.. shame i always get retunes really.. then again i havent built a huge reputation for big numbers and telling porkies. or melting engines for that matter..
Click to expand...

Martin... i was told Steve now password protect is maps....?

but.. on another note, Ross's car was spot on down norfolk :worthy:

steve_fctuning said:
Well thats clearly obvious, even to myself any my folk as we are in enough drift motas for many many years to be aware of that otherwise. I wouldnt be here otherwise and figs are for the pub.. they dont interest me in the slightest though they do others....


Anyway.. I thought this topic was about Rocker Arms Stoppers? or is someone changing the topic entirely ? :smash:
:smokin::smokin:
Click to expand...

Martin aint no figure pusher Steve... we all know that!

anyway...
Topic is how to look after a sr20... so a good safe map is of course a definite...:smash:

i posted how rocker arms are fitted in a few posts up... before all the politics :smash:

one thing steve..........


why don't any of the driftworks cars get mapped by you :smash: :confused:

:D:D
 
I'm crackin up at some of these comments.

I wouldn't go for a cheap AFM, the copies AREN'T as accurate as genuine nissan ones. It's the only thing thats metering the air into your engine, surely it makes sense to make sure its doing its job well?

As for a T28R dying at 1.3 bar, I ran mine for over a year at that boost level with absolutely no issues. It depends entirely on the condition of the engine etc.

When Steve mapped my S14, he even said that he only gives out bhp curves because people want them, if he had it his way he'd just give them 'tractive effort' graphs (or something like that?).

Lots of mappers password protect their maps, it doesn't stop anyone else from remapping it but it does prevent them from modifying the existing map, as far as I know!

Every forum has their 'preferred' mapper, and there's a few rumours/horror stories going around about every company!

For the record, I'm not blindly defending one mapper, but I've had one massive nightmare with a certain tuner, and Steve was ALOT better. :thumbs:


As for rocker arm stoppers, I drove my 14 pretty hard at DWYB etc on the limiter a fair bit and never had any issues, but I might have just been lucky!
 
Last edited:
RyanH said:
I'm crackin up at some of these comments.

I wouldn't go for a cheap AFM, the copies AREN'T as accurate as genuine nissan ones. It's the only thing thats metering the air into your engine, surely it makes sense to make sure its doing its job well?

my AFM is 100% genuine :wave:

As for a T28R dying at 1.3 bar, I ran mine for over a year at that boost level with absolutely no issues. It depends entirely on the condition of the engine etc.

look at the compresser graph for a gt2560 :thumbs:

When Steve mapped my S14, he even said that he only gives out bhp curves because people want them, if he had it his way he'd just give them 'tractive effort' graphs (or something like that?).

i must just witness all the laggy, figure pushing maps/graphs then :(

Lots of mappers password protect their maps, it doesn't stop anyone else from remapping it but it does prevent them from modifying the existing map, as far as I know!

:nod:

but :wave: was wondering how matin had "tweeked" steves maps :confused:

Every forum has their 'preferred' mapper, and there's a few rumours/horror stories going around about every company!
Click to expand...

meh, i could name a few companys which i have yet to hear a bad word of :thumbs:
 
Fair play, I thought you were advising someone to get a cheapo chinese AFM or something.

I dunno how to read compressor graphs unfortunately, so I can't really comment! My old turbo ran fine at 1.3 bar, driven hard pretty much every day though. Just my experience on it.

I can only comment on my experience, but my old map was anything but laggy. I'm not disputing that others may or may not have been though.

And yea, I agree that there are a couple of companies I haven't heard any bad stories about... yet! :wack: I'm sure people will moan when a random component fails and they've got nothing else to blame it on though.

Sorry if that last post sounded like a bitch at you directly, it wasn't intended that way. :thumbs:
 
gstuning said:
You´r shitting me?

backpressure kept the valves open?
Click to expand...


yup sure did mate $10,000 rebuild down the drain...

if fc tuneing was selling numbers not tunes then he would have his ramp rate high as a kite and everyone would be getting dyno graphs with 300kw on 10psi,this tuner does real world runs no dyno queen crap,he could just tell the dyno its a 50deg day if he wanted that extra 30hp..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top