Not so N/A S13 anymore...

Technically droop is the amount the car has to travel from its normal ride height to the moment it picks the wheel up FYI. The thing you measured above is purely for pre-loading the spring.Youve currently zero preload (and then some)

Settings seem pretty much on the money, as you said it will be worthwhile checking the rear psi after a few runs next time, or tryin a different brand of tyres.
 
Lucky_13 said:
Technically droop is the amount the car has to travel from its normal ride height to the moment it picks the wheel up FYI. The thing you measured above is purely for pre-loading the spring.Youve currently zero preload (and then some)

Settings seem pretty much on the money, as you said it will be worthwhile checking the rear psi after a few runs next time, or tryin a different brand of tyres.
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You seem pretty clued up, and since I want to compete in Driftcup next year, I want as much grip as possible without buying semi-slicks lol - Is there anything else I could do suspension wise to gain more grip on the rear?

Never fully understand droop etc so would be good to get a proper understanding if you have time and are bored...


Idiots guide to suspension :dw:
 
Spent the last 5 years setting up civic cup and m3 cup cars so I’ve just picked it up. Have a read around and check out threads like mittos on here there’s lots of useful info on there.

Sadly the way drifting is going you’ll probably need semi slicks to compete lol.

If I were you I’d just run really low pressures, I’d also look into traction rods and play around with that. You want it to be creating toe in on compression meaning it will gain forward bite when it squats. To check this you will have to measure the bump steer. Softer rear spring rates could also help along with lowering the rear some more in search of grip.

I’ll always try to help were I can mate.
 
Lucky_13 said:
Spent the last 5 years setting up civic cup and m3 cup cars so I’ve just picked it up. Have a read around and check out threads like mittos on here there’s lots of useful info on there.

Sadly the way drifting is going you’ll probably need semi slicks to compete lol.

If I were you I’d just run really low pressures, I’d also look into traction rods and play around with that. You want it to be creating toe in on compression meaning it will gain forward bite when it squats. To check this you will have to measure the bump steer. Softer rear spring rates could also help along with lowering the rear some more in search of grip.

I’ll always try to help were I can mate.
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I've read Mittos S-Body Alignment thread more times than I'd like to remember, but theres not much in the way of explanations on how it all works...

Ye, I know lol, I'm hoping not though

I'm gonna start at 20psi on my next drift day and see how I get on, I'm not running massive stretch or small sidewalls so i'm hoping I can run fairly low pressures without the worry of de-beading....

I wouldn't even know where to start with measuring bump steer? I've lowered the car all round, but i've made sure the front is a bit higher just so its got a bit of rake going on - hopefully this will help...


Appreciate what you've already told me - Current spring setup is the stock HSD Monopro - 7kg front/5kg rear, if I go any softer in the rear will it not just float about?
 
Are you going to run 20psi in the Kenda's? That would be night and day difference to the cheapies at 30psi

You run the risk of changing too many things before the next day and learning nothing out of it, as you don't know if it was one thing that did it, or the combination of multiple changes

Fit the swaybar but don't connect the end links as mentioned because with the extra grip from the Kenda's plus everything else being soft i reckon you'll start noticing body roll. I'd keep everything the same and run the Kenda's at 30psi to start with as just the compound change will make a huge difference. If you do notice it rolling more, then fit up the end links. If the roll stops but the grip drops, then drop the tyre pressure to 25psi. If it's still too slippery (highly unlikely) then go to 20psi. If that's too grippy, stiffen up the dampers 25%

Traction arm adjustments are tricky as they can destroy tyres. Rule of thumb has always been shorten them by 10mm each side for more toe-in on compression, but I would see what the above results in before making such a big change. I noticed an improvement in tyre wear and feedback by just fitting traction arms with rose joints and leaving them at stock length
 
BenRice said:
Are you going to run 20psi in the Kenda's? That would be night and day difference to the cheapies at 30psi

You run the risk of changing too many things before the next day and learning nothing out of it, as you don't know if it was one thing that did it, or the combination of multiple changes

Fit the swaybar but don't connect the end links as mentioned because with the extra grip from the Kenda's plus everything else being soft i reckon you'll start noticing body roll. I'd keep everything the same and run the Kenda's at 30psi to start with as just the compound change will make a huge difference. If you do notice it rolling more, then fit up the end links. If the roll stops but the grip drops, then drop the tyre pressure to 25psi. If it's still too slippery (highly unlikely) then go to 20psi. If that's too grippy, stiffen up the dampers 25%

Traction arm adjustments are tricky as they can destroy tyres. Rule of thumb has always been shorten them by 10mm each side for more toe-in on compression, but I would see what the above results in before making such a big change. I noticed an improvement in tyre wear and feedback by just fitting traction arms with rose joints and leaving them at stock length
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I still have a brand new pair of the Aptanys left to burn which i'll be running at 20psi and i'll have a pair of Kenda's to wack on immediately after the Aptanys have gone bye byes - and i'll run the Kenda's at 20psi as then its a direct comparison and just a compound change as you've said

Ye that's my plan, with the rear ARB(Swaybar, its almost as if your not from the UK :wack:).

I won't be amending the traction arms yet - mainly because I don't have the dolla to spend on some adjustable jobbies lol, and my stock ones are polybushed so will do just fine for now I reckon!
 
I wouldn’t go any softer that 5k rear no.

Also remember with the roll bar you only need to remove/attach one drop link. This makes for removing it/fitting it easy. (I’ve done it so many times in assembly area at tracks I’ve lost count lol)
 
Bu11et said:
I still have a brand new pair of the Aptanys left to burn which i'll be running at 20psi and i'll have a pair of Kenda's to wack on immediately after the Aptanys have gone bye byes - and i'll run the Kenda's at 20psi as then its a direct comparison and just a compound change as you've said

Ye that's my plan, with the rear ARB(Swaybar, its almost as if your not from the UK :wack:).

I won't be amending the traction arms yet - mainly because I don't have the dolla to spend on some adjustable jobbies lol, and my stock ones are polybushed so will do just fine for now I reckon!
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Sounds like a plan!

Doing a track day based around fine tuning is seriously fun imo. Measuring the affect changes you've made is rewarding, but i geek out on this shit. As you start to ratchet up the grip levels just be wary of other things, like when you use of clutch kicks. There will be more resistance going up your driveline so a touch of mechanical sympathy will go a long way to keeping your track time up

Not from the UK? How did you tell that :P
 
Lucky_13 said:
I wouldn’t go any softer that 5k rear no.

Also remember with the roll bar you only need to remove/attach one drop link. This makes for removing it/fitting it easy. (I’ve done it so many times in assembly area at tracks I’ve lost count lol)
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Lucky_13 said:
Rear geomaster hubs are also said to gain a lot of grip
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Ye that's exactly what I was thinking, also looking on here, a set of 4kg springs is £65...don't think im willing to pay that lol

Ye tempted with Geomasters, although because im on 16" wheels, i'm not sure if I can run them on the rear?? I know the fronts some people struggle with 17's if they have shit offset...

BenRice said:
Sounds like a plan!

Doing a track day based around fine tuning is seriously fun imo. Measuring the affect changes you've made is rewarding, but i geek out on this shit. As you start to ratchet up the grip levels just be wary of other things, like when you use of clutch kicks. There will be more resistance going up your driveline so a touch of mechanical sympathy will go a long way to keeping your track time up

Not from the UK? How did you tell that :p
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Ye man, problem we have over here is that weather is a key factor - like my last drift day, started out in the pissing wet, by lunch it was bone dry so its very unpredictable... But ye, i'm hoping if I change to KR20 and run them at a lower PSI i'll gain a shit load more grip and be able to drive even faster haha
 
Update #6702

A few things turned up that were quite needed tbh...

First off, a digital/portable tyre gauge, not the most compact of things, but for £11 delivered off eBay, i'm not going to complain, it does mean I can keep it in the car with me and adjust tyre pressures inbetween runs whilst on track...
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Secondly, new wheels nuts, these are the Titan Steel open ended nuts from our very own Driftworks, in Anodised Blue. My current ones are the internal black steel ones which have been on the car for the past 2 years and i'm constantly worried that the internal star shaped "thread, if you will" is going to strip leaving me with a pig of a job of removing stripped wheel nuts. So replaced these before that had chance to happen.
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Also, my new steer tyres arrived! A pair of Kenda Kaiser KR20 205/45/16 - Mega excited to try these out as a few of my mates have used them and said they are really good for the price.
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Took the tyres to a local drifter(AB Autoworks in Halifax) - and he let me use his tyre machine to swap my tyres over which is super handy, shall definately be sending some business his way soon! :worthy:

New tyres and nuts(:oops:) fitted.
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Then to bed in the new tyres before hitting the track next month, me and Amy went out for a carvery :blowkiss:
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Took this picture which looks like I have alot of rear arch gap, but I think the rear overfender on this side is actually mounted higher than the other side(or vice versa)... My reasoning for this is that both rear coilovers are lowered exactly the same amount, but the driver's side looks higher than the passenger side, so will need to look into that...
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That same night, I had a few hours to myself as Amy and Scarlett went over to their friends for tea as I was going to a colleagues leaving do later that night, but before this I had 3 hours to kill... OBVIOUSLY it was used doing useless car shit, instead of doing something useful, like tidying the house...
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Without telling Amy, I turned our kitchen into a fibreglass workshop. Nipped to Halfords and bought some fresh clean mats, and also a fibreglass kit as mine had seemed to have gone missing. I'm super glad that I got a Halfords Trade Card many years ago! It has saved me a fair but, the Fibreglass kit was supposed to be £15, and the mats £12, but after using my trade card ,it totaled £21 which I was rather happy with!
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After 3 hours I was pretty happy, alot of the time was spent prepping for fibreglass and also waiting for it to dry and then applying extra layers to attempt to solidify the bumper as it was previously a floppy mess :euge:
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I then threw it in the shed overnight and let it set, haven't looked at it yet lol...


Also got some more Rockingham pics - this time from the very few runs I did of the outer paddock first thing in the morning - from Shaun_mint_photo on Instagram - Thanks dude! :alschaser
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I think it needs 17’s personally or to go way lower. Im not a massive fan of the orange bits either. But if we all built our cars the same it would be boring.


What about a roof spoiler?
 
nissanr34cal said:
I think it needs 17’s personally or to go way lower. Im not a massive fan of the orange bits either. But if we all built our cars the same it would be boring.


What about a roof spoiler?
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I'm not going 17s, mainly because I wanna stay 4 stud lol, it is going lower definately and ye the orange bits are like marmite

Roof spoiler! Yes! Keep forgetting about them tbh
 
Roof spoiler x2

And what about a window tint in a colour to contrast the blue? Maybe gold-mirror?

Either way, an inch lower will make a massive difference, both in how it looks in photos and in how crap it will be to drive lol
 
BenRice said:
Roof spoiler x2

And what about a window tint in a colour to contrast the blue? Maybe gold-mirror?

Either way, an inch lower will make a massive difference, both in how it looks in photos and in how crap it will be to drive lol
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Hmmm, I've been having thoughts about maybe some vinyl down the side... Not loads but just a bit

Mate, don't get me started hahaha, every single day:
"it drives good, doesn't need lowering"
Then see a photo of it
"it would look amazing if it was lower!"

If it was on 17s I'd probably get away with it lol
 
Bu11et said:
I'm not going 17s, mainly because I wanna stay 4 stud lol, it is going lower definately and ye the orange bits are like marmite

Roof spoiler! Yes! Keep forgetting about them tbh
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Get the ssr’s on it bro. Will break necks haha. And they owe you fuck all haha.

Roof spoilers makes everything better.
 
nissanr34cal said:
Get the ssr’s on it bro. Will break necks haha. And they owe you fuck all haha.

Roof spoilers makes everything better.
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I'm still 4 stud, so fitting them will cost me £200 just in hubs, plus my current wheel setup 'just' fits on my trailer so not looking to go wider, AND I'm not an 18" all round on S13 kinda guy lol

Ye, definately gonna have a look now you've mentioned it, I forgot!

misterjake said:
i'll swap you those SSR's for my R33's :cool: bargain deal
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Prov sold my man!
 
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